Beretta.net

3X00-Modified wrote:Thanks Cliff I just ordered that pipe now I just need to get the hoses.

I know it *used* to come with the hoses attached, but it might not anymore.

Barry wrote:Is that tig or mig? I never heard of reversing polarity on a mig.

I know the inside cover of the lincoln welder in the garage has polarity diagrams for if you're using shielding gas or flux-core.

Cliff8928 wrote:

3X00-Modified wrote:Thanks Cliff I just ordered that pipe now I just need to get the hoses.

I know it *used* to come with the hoses attached, but it might not anymore.

Barry wrote:Is that tig or mig? I never heard of reversing polarity on a mig.

I know the inside cover of the lincoln welder in the garage has polarity diagrams for if you're using shielding gas or flux-core.

Yeah the welder I am borrowing is a gas and flux setup and I happened to look at the polarity and noticed it was set for regular which is best for flux core wire. It should be set for reverse when using gas on steel or when doing aluminum and such. Switched to reverse the part seemed to get hotter an weld smoother. I was able to do that on level 2 an its a 110v welder. Before I had to use level 4 to get stuff hot enough. I'm tempted to reweld my other joints I did with it before. As well as my trans stand.

Barry wrote:Is that tig or mig? I never heard of reversing polarity on a mig.

I had to make custom heater core pipes for my headers too. For the one the comes out of the t-stat housing I used a 3500 malibu one, cut the bracket off and flipped it 180 degress and welded it back on. That worked well.

Then for the front one, I cut it after the valve cover and ran hose from there to the core to avoid the heat.

I dont HAVE to do it for the headers... it fit as it was, and will probably fit better now that the flange is gone and the V-band is in it's place. I just opted to do the wrap around more for the look on the front of the engine and to allow valve cover removal whenever I want. I realized that the way that diagram shows the coolant flow, the line I am wrapping around goes to the larger inlet on the core, and it was the smaller line that had the hose touching the header IIRC... so I may not even solve the issue I had at hand... lol

There are a lot of items you need to modify to run the headers you got, and as well as the WOT-Tech ones... I'm kinda glad there almost no modifications necessary to the bay or other parts to run the S&S headers; at least on my setup.

Oh well I'll see how it all lines up when I get the line and motor in place. I just need to figure out how to secure that tube I got.

3X00-Modified wrote:There are a lot of items you need to modify to run the headers you got, and as well as the WOT-Tech ones... I'm kinda glad there almost no modifications necessary to the bay or other parts to run the S&S headers; at least on my setup.

I've been wondering if the WOT-Tech ones have better clearance for the upper trans mount on a 91 5spd.

Supposidly they are made to clear any trans combo... But I do not know if they clearanced it for the upper mount. I do know you need to change how the oil pressure sending unit attaches since they are more of an equal length design, and I think I remember hearing that the fan may also have to be changed... but I'm not sure if they ever tried the thinner 96 fan vs the older style ones.

3X00-Modified wrote:I think a minivan of sorts... double check with Brendon, he got it from the yard one time and just passed it off to me.

Ordered the two needed hoses from RockAuto... Thats the only thing that will delay me now... But I doubt I'll have my headers coated this weekend... Will and Lisa are coming down.

it was a minivan and off the top of my head i would have to say 96-97 pontiac trans sport. but don't hold me to that i will have to check again since it was many years ago i grabbed that.

I got an early Birthday present... and I guess there is more to come from what was said this AM....



Came with an automatic pressure control switch and all the wiring, so now all I need is a pressure gauge and I'll be able to run this nitrous as I should have been a while ago.

Finally got your bottle heater I see. LOL

900-950 is correct pressure aint it? usually around 920-5 is what they run. thats what i was told.

Yeah, optimal is 950-1250 depending on the shot your running. My cousin runs a consistant 1000 and I may set mine to stabilize at 950 or so just to start. Has an adjustable pressure switch to turn it on and off. I also just need to get a pressure gauge so I can monitor it.

sick setup ^ i was talking to a guy thats a die hard nitrous fan lol, he wont go turbo, the more people up their psi the more nitrous he runs. he was telling me he would set his bottle pressure to 930, he has a 540ci bbc and a 400 shot lol. 930 is his bottle pressure. he was telling that was the best pressure. the car is nasty lol, 88 notchback powerglide 540bbc and 400 shot 8.70's was his best pass but he spins off the line, he was cutting like 1.42s he said he should be cutting 1.2's.

Cliff your right, I picked up the pipe last night and the two rubber hoses were already attached, they are clamped to that pipe like a hydraulic hose and they came with two new clamps for either end.

I positioned it in the bay last night and it looks like it will work with what I have there currently, I just need to figure out where I want it to run near the upper motor mount, as well as where it has to run to have the hose reach, and then I need to secure it in some way in a few spots... I don't need that thing rattling around.

which is a better upgrade? the Nitrous actually seems to win against superchargers and turbos too? Jon just how fast can your pink beretta go? my dad's 2009 srt8 has a "listed quarter mile time" of 13 seconds or so... your car is FASTER?

my moms boyfriend's 08 srt8 ran a 13.68 tap shift, 6 spd auto. so yea...running a 12.67 spinning beats the srt8 lol.

3X00-Modified wrote:Cliff your right, I picked up the pipe last night and the two rubber hoses were already attached, they are clamped to that pipe like a hydraulic hose and they came with two new clamps for either end.

I positioned it in the bay last night and it looks like it will work with what I have there currently, I just need to figure out where I want it to run near the upper motor mount, as well as where it has to run to have the hose reach, and then I need to secure it in some way in a few spots... I don't need that thing rattling around.

On the older cars, it just clips in the same plastic clips the A/C line is in. (the other A/C line goes around the drivers side on the 87-91)

You can see it in that diagram.

My AC line is slightly different.... I messed with it a little bit and I think I have it in a spot that will work for now. Vibrations later will let me know for sure. If I get any then I need to re-make the evap line that goes back to the fuel tank since thats what runs right on top of the frame rail and is making it hard to position this line.

Sneak Peak of the header color.



My Line routing.