Beretta.net

woody90gtz wrote:Grabbed a booster last night, what a pain in the dick. haha The only L-body was a 96 Corsica in a briar bush...and it had the infamous water leak...and no tilt steering...and a car right next to the driver door. So after I cut down the briars as best I could I had to pull the steering wheel to get under the dash. The ABS unit and MAF make the master cylinder tougher to get out compared to mine. This thing better work beautiful! haha

No he got a JY one...

With all the brake issues your Having Eric I say just cut a hole in the floor and Flintstone it... You'll get better results.

haha

Well all along the brakes have stopped great! Just a defective master killed a booster and now the replacement needs some attention. It acts like it's just a pedal issue, since I can pull up on the pedal and all is well. I'm hoping to get some time for it tonight...but it's Shark Week!

Bad week to be a seal...

Damn...got to go back and read everything before I post. Getting lazy.

Yup, just the pedal. Had to use a nut as a spacer between the pushrod and the pin clip to make sure the rod doesnt kick sideways again. Kinda fixed the strut mount too...I could pound the old stud out and maneuver the new stud in without pulling the strut. And it does tighten up, but the knurled shank doesnt seat solidly. I got it to tighten down with a regular nut and as I loosened it to install the lock nut the stud started to back out. So it just has to be a non-lock nut for now. I'll probably end up replacing these strut mounts soon anyway according to Tyler's recent experience with Monroe mounts.

POS Driveshaft Shop axle is popping. Took the boot off and found that the needle bearings from one of the tripod rollers were all over. Jesus...

Called DSS and then emailed them a pic. We'll see what they say. The tripod roller snap rings don't hold the rollers in very well.

I tore down the column to fix the infamous GM tilt steering wobble and the suspected 4 bolts were tight. A little googling shows the air bag columns are a little different than the non-airbag columns and their problem usually comes from the pivot pins and not the 4 bolts. So I got a better look at it, and it does look like it's coming from the pivot pins. I can buy an oversize pin or drill and bush the housing depending on how bad it's worn.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech ... orial.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech ... -tilt.html

I've always said the only thing I've never done to the Beretta was the column...so now I think I've officially hit everything. Gonna fab a teflon bushing for the tilt pins and see how that works.

New tripod from DSS should be here tomorrow.

What is the white plastic pipe for?

Were they actually "worn"? Its hard to believe that someone has moved the wheel enough to wear those pins out... kinda nuts.

Yup, there's wiggle in the pins to the inside housing. Nothing much in the outside housing though. It's apparently pretty common. Once I have mine where I want it I never adjust it again...but this car has over 200k on it, so who knows what the history is.

Boner that's teflon. Gonna see if I can get a friend at work to lathe me a bushing I can press in the housing. I know teflon is strong, but it worries me a little that it might wear out even quicker than the aluminum did. I could just turn an oversize pin and pound it in there. There's a place that sells them for $50/per, but I'm too cheap. Thinking red loctite might hold it from moving at all and then just the outside housing will pivot on the pin like it's supposed to.

Loctite 680 if you really want it on there.

Don't think the red will do the trick? I'll check the sotre and see if they have 680.

My coworker didn't have time today to work on the column, but I got my tripod in from DSS and the axle is all done. If he doesn't have time tomorrow I'll assemble it as-is and fix it later. I just tackled it now since the car was immobile anyway...and now the car moves! haha

Wow, just read the description and it sounds like it shouldn't even need a new pin with 680. That could save aggravation.

Loctite® 680™ is a high strength, high viscosity room temperature curing adhesive used to join fitted cylindrical parts. It fixtures in 10 minutes and provides a shear strength of 4,000 psi. Capable of filling diametral gaps up to 0.015 in. (0.38 mm). Loctite 680 allows relaxed machining tolerances, and replaces clamp rings, set screws, and snap rings. Gives best resistance to dynamic, axial and radial loads. Recommended for retaining shafts, gears, pulleys and similar cylindrical parts. NSF/ANSI 61 Certified. ABS Approved.

Column is back together and it feels better. I used Loctite red because no one had 680 in stock. I can redo it later down the road, but it's pretty good right now...we'll see if it deteriorates.

Replaced the CV and the popping noise was still there, so I inspected the other axle and found moisture damage. It hangs up in spots when you move it by hand, too. The boot was in perfect shape, but at the small crimp clamp on the crossbar it looks dirty, so that must be where the moisture got in. I am less than pleased with Driveshaft shop at this point. I never had this much trouble with Advance axles!