Beretta.net

My 95Z 3100 has 116k on it when the intake gaskets started seeping. Used that as an excuse to 3400 swap it.

Shane told me there's over 200k on the body of my 91. Don't know the story with the original engine though.

275k on Betty's body and transmission. Probably about 100k on the latest engine.

Holy God that is a lot of miles on a 4T60-E...

Wow, I guess so. My 4t60e started acting up around 125k...albeit I was not easy on it with the 3400.

Which is probably the reason why I should put in a new trans before Berettafest. This one is on it's way out.

Too bad my brother sold his Z26. I would have offered up the 5 speed in it for a swap. Betty would like a swap...

She would like a swap but I don't think it's worth it with her rust.

Poppycock!

jwreding wrote:Hi...long time lurker, first (well technically 2nd) time poster. I just thought I would share that my '96 base model with the Quad4 and 5spd just rolled over 200k. I have owned it since 140k and not really done much at all except routine maintenance, a rusted out fuel line, and a couple of front wheel bearings. I am 99% sure it is the original engine and not rebuilt.

I am still baffled by these cars. I had a brand new '06 Cobalt before this and it was already starting to have issues (backfiring, etc.) at 30k. AND it didn't even get as good of mileage (also had a 4cyl/5sp). With the Beretta, I consistently get 37-38mpg highway and high 20s in the city. I can only imagine what I'd get if I seafoam the thing (which I plan to do soon). Has anyone ever theorized as to why Berettas seem to get such ridiculous mileage, even compared to other cars with similar drivetrains? Is it related to the design/aerodynamics? I haven't been able to read every post on the board, so not sure if it's already been discussed.

I'm ticked off, though...I was hoping to snap a pic of 200 on the dot but got sidetracked during my trip and when I looked back down I was at 200,007

You mean the cluster looked like this, and you missed the 200,000 photo shoot?!?!
Not to worry, so did I! I never have problems with my 90 Beretta, I can floor it, it will wind up to around 6,700 RPM while accelerating, then it will shift.
I drive nice, and I only get at most 20 MPG in the city, usually 17-18 MPG.
Freeway I can get 25 MPG if I'm driving right, I usually get around 23-24 MPG.

I have the 3.1L MPFI v6. 3 SPD auto. The thing drinks the gas and when I go 70 MPH, it reads something like 3,500 RPM, maybe a bit over that. in 3rd gear lock up.
I know that the 6 SPD stick with the standard I4 can get about 30 or above on the freeway, and easily get 25 and up in the city. Someone I knew for a short time had that combo and always boasted about his mileage. I guess it was because Mine always accelerated faster, who knows. lol

I plan to wire in a master switch to turn this set up on and off seeing as there will be times when this is not desirable:
I plan to install a push button toggle switch, like an electric clutch almost, on/off, for the torque converter: Pressed=off and released=on (default on).
So if I want the TCC solenoid disengaged, I hold the button in. Engaged I release the button. The master switch puts the TCC solenoid back into normal operation.
I also plan to make it so that when I press the break, the TCC solenoid disengages by default as an emergency thing, like having to suddenly slam on the break or something, thus overriding the default on signal from my push button switch.

I'm thinking installing it for either my thumb or index finger on the drive selector handle. I have not decided yet.
I found how I want to do this, I just never got around to it.

I'm hoping it will help decrease drag when accelerating and shifting, and so that I can also engage it in the 25 and 30 mph zones to get better MPG, because for some reason, my car just drinks the gas, which is strange because my other 90 Beretta gets better mileage, and its the same exact car.

Winding a stock 3.1 over 5500 rpm is just making noise... And if your hitting 6700 on a regular basis then your shifting is not setup properly. These cars were never setup to shift that late. No comment on the TCC idea... I'm just going to leave that one be.

3X00-Modified wrote:Winding a stock 3.1 over 5500 rpm is just making noise... And if your hitting 6700 on a regular basis then your shifting is not setup properly. These cars were never setup to shift that late. No comment on the TCC idea... I'm just going to leave that one be.

Its stock. But it still pulls the whole time. It only revs that high in 2nd gear, mostly because its worn out.
I don't make a habit of it though, I've learned how far I can hold the gas without it kicking into 2nd.
Honestly, I have not done that for a long time, I just like to brag that I did and it can.

Yah, the TCC idea is something I thought up, and it can work if I was willing to put forth the effort.
I have not done it yet mostly because I do not want to set it up then make a catastrophic mistake while using it. lol

It's in your head... a stock 3.1 will not "PULL" up to 6700 rpm... have you ever seen a stock HP/TQ curve for those engines? It's dropping and dropping fast after 5500.

3X00-Modified wrote:It's in your head... a stock 3.1 will not "PULL" up to 6700 rpm... have you ever seen a stock HP/TQ curve for those engines? It's dropping and dropping fast after 5500.

Yah I have seen it. It still accelerates, but not as fast as if it were to shift to 3rd when it should.

Don't worry, this wont happen, I've been watching my RPMs ever since I learned the auto shift points.

Local car-trading site has 1990 GTZ with 459193 km (285329 miles)

Seems bit worn.. link

95BerettaBase wrote:My '95 Base with thethe 31000 had 284,000 on it when I sold it to DTMAce.

I wanna see this thing! How many cylinders does a 31000 have!? -Sorry.

My 3800 GTU is approaching 170k, around 80k on the L36/L67 hybrid (both donors were very close in mileage).

GHOSTOWLGRID wrote: I never have problems with my 90 Beretta, I can floor it, it will wind up to around 6,700 RPM while accelerating, then it will shift.
I drive nice, and I only get at most 20 MPG in the city, usually 17-18 MPG.
Freeway I can get 25 MPG if I'm driving right, I usually get around 23-24 MPG.

I have the 3.1L MPFI v6. 3 SPD auto. The thing drinks the gas and when I go 70 MPH, it reads something like 3,500 RPM, maybe a bit over that. in 3rd gear lock up.
I know that the 6 SPD stick with the standard I4 can get about 30 or above on the freeway, and easily get 25 and up in the city. Someone I knew for a short time had that combo and always boasted about his mileage. I guess it was because Mine always accelerated faster, who knows. lol

I plan to wire in a master switch to turn this set up on and off seeing as there will be times when this is not desirable:
I plan to install a push button toggle switch, like an electric clutch almost, on/off, for the torque converter: Pressed=off and released=on (default on).
So if I want the TCC solenoid disengaged, I hold the button in. Engaged I release the button. The master switch puts the TCC solenoid back into normal operation.
I also plan to make it so that when I press the break, the TCC solenoid disengages by default as an emergency thing, like having to suddenly slam on the break or something, thus overriding the default on signal from my push button switch.

I'm thinking installing it for either my thumb or index finger on the drive selector handle. I have not decided yet.
I found how I want to do this, I just never got around to it.

I'm hoping it will help decrease drag when accelerating and shifting, and so that I can also engage it in the 25 and 30 mph zones to get better MPG, because for some reason, my car just drinks the gas, which is strange because my other 90 Beretta gets better mileage, and its the same exact car.

My '90 Yellow Indy (3.1 auto, basically stock except for a block-off in the EGR passage to keep out the muck, the engine is supposedly newer with only ~70k miles, and it actually acts like it so it is hard to say) pulls in a little better than 30 MPG, straight city would likely get high 20s, straight highway is claiming almost 40 MPG (!) on the digital gauges (they seem to be very close too) and even higher than that without any hills. Kansas would do wonders for this car's economy . I usually drive that car pretty nicely, but still, this thing is 23 years old and gets 30+ MPG, with an auto...
I like your TCC idea, basically something I've thought about too, except I decided to have the 'activate' switch trip a relay holding the TCC on, and (like you said) have the relay trip out if the brake-pedal is touched or the 'disengage' button is pressed (just another momentary switch). I've thought about doing this to the Indy mostly because some of the roads by my house have slight down hills that I can coast down in neutral, but in Drive I lose speed due to engine drag, and when I try to notch the car back into Drive, I have to hit the accelerator to get the TCC to reengage. I also think I would get better MPG at lower speeds, like you mentioned, since the TCC won't engage on my Indy until about 43 or 45 MPH, I could certainly use it before then on most roads. My biggest concern would be it engaging then have the tranny try to downshift, I don't know what would happen to the tranny if the TCC was engaged while the tranny went into second... Honestly, I'll just wait until I have the time to swap-in a five-speed... But, if I planned on keeping this thing automatic, I would probably do a TCC override, I think it is a good idea, so long as you pay attention to it.

The high-miler in my collection is my 'old' '88 Camaro -the car is only in the mid 100k's, but the engine has well over 300,000 miles on it -it was salvaged from a 3/4 Ton '88 GMC Vandura touring van, has (we believe) a mild RV cam in it (it is a roller-lifter engine), and had spun a rod due to lack of oil when I got it. $40 in new Federal Mogul bearings (all eight rods AND mains for $40... ) and a replacement crank/timing set from an early-nineties work-truck that swallowed a valve, and I was on the road with an extra 50 cubes! Nothing else has been done to this engine, except for tune-ups, regular oil-changes, and some severe intake mods, so 300+k miles on original rings and bores, original heads (the valve-seals are typical Small Block -toast, so she smokes when cold). I'm not sure about compression, but the engine runs very strong, and with the intake work, this car stomps my '89 Camaro, which has a 350 Police Special, Headman headers and Flowmaster exhaust, the same 5-speed, and virtually the same gearing. Before the intake work, the car matched the '89 for performance, and got 22.5 MPG in the city, 26 MPG highway (speed didn't matter, 55 or 85, it got the same), consistently.

The 'new' '88 Camaro just rolled the odometer last month, but I don't know if it rolled to 100k, or 200k... It wasn't well cared for before I got it and age was (is) telling on her, I had to completely rebuild the front-end when I bought this car, and the engine was already rebuilt once (it is a V-6 car), and I haven't been much nicer to the engine either (I've changed the oil a couple of times, flushed the cooling system once or twice, but I haven't done a tune-up in years, the clutch I threw into it was salvaged from another car, a Beretta or a Fiero I think, and one of the exhaust-manifolds is wired in place to the down-pipe because the studs broke off when I replaced the head-gaskets which were blown when I bought the car for $350 from the junk-yard). Eventually, I plan on putting in a twin turbo Northstar (I have the engine and turbo setup, but not the custom flywheel, mounts, power steering pump bracket, water cross-over pipes, or wiring harness, and it will be a serious PITA, and isn't on the top of my list to tinker with -the car actually runs fine, and quite strong, I recently used it to haul another car 1500 miles with no problems at all.

Most of my cars sit between 100k and 200k. My second '97 Z-24, which was just totaled-out in an accident , had well over 200k though, and had a very strong running 2.4 Twin Cam in it.

We also have a Toyota in the family with way over 200k miles, we've done oil-changes, tune-ups, gone through lots of brake-pads, rebuilt the rear drums once, and did the clutch right around 200k -that's it, except for cleaning the MAF a few times and replacing one O2 sensor -we get 40 MPG with this car, city and/or highway.

Lastly, I have a $170 '90 Nissan runabout with just over 200k on the clock, 4-cylinder auto, the car starts and runs every time (except once when the battery had drained down too far from sitting for almost a year), I haven't had to do ANYTHING to it in the years I've owned it besides the one jump-start. This car gets 30 MPG or a little better, and just goes where it is asked to go. It will need tires soon ...