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Re: CLutch hard to press. More info below

Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:18 pm
by Beretta1234567
Clutch stiff and doesnt disengage until right at the floor.

Re: CLutch hard to press. More info below

Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:51 pm
by woody90gtz
Mine is tight at the 90* fitting by the unibody frame rail, but that is the 90-91 where the slave bolts right to the bellhousing. I guess it would make sense it would be closer with the bracket style. Glad it's all working now.

Re: CLutch hard to press. More info below

Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 10:06 pm
by Rettax3
:good: Glad to hear it.

I spent some time on my tranny today too, and also got my brand spankin' new master-cylinder/reservoir/line/lower bleeder-fitting in the mail -$50 shipped for brand new stuff, can't beat that! Unfortunately, the mounting holes for the new master cylinder are not spaced-out the same as on the old one, and I do not want to drill more holes in the car if I don't have to, so I need to figure something out on it. The only reason I bought a new master was because the new slave is not compatible with the old clutch line, and I can't find anything that would adapt the two together, like the AN fittings you got. :Search: I would still be interested in seeing the new line you put in for it if you have the chance to snap a quick pic...

I'll have a thread up on my car once it is done.

Re: CLutch hard to press. More info below

Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 10:18 pm
by Beretta1234567
Rettax3 wrote::good: Glad to hear it.

I spent some time on my tranny today too, and also got my brand spankin' new master-cylinder/reservoir/line/lower bleeder-fitting in the mail -$50 shipped for brand new stuff, can't beat that! Unfortunately, the mounting holes for the new master cylinder are not spaced-out the same as on the old one, and I do not want to drill more holes in the car if I don't have to, so I need to figure something out on it. The only reason I bought a new master was because the new slave is not compatible with the old clutch line, and I can't find anything that would adapt the two together, like the AN fittings you got. :Search: I would still be interested in seeing the new line you put in for it if you have the chance to snap a quick pic...

I'll have a thread up on my car once it is done.
I think I'll be okay with removing the intake to get a few clear photos.
But for now, I'm a bit bothered with the thought of having to take anything apart on the car again. It was a long day of just testing and checking till it was right, and it got exhausting.

Re: CLutch hard to press. More info below

Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 7:56 am
by woody90gtz
The new slave doesn't have pinlock fittings? It's a pretty standard GM design. My truck, Beretta & Camaro all have the same style.

Re: CLutch hard to press. More info below

Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 10:59 am
by Beretta1234567
Clutch stiff and doesnt disengage until right at the floor.

Re: CLutch hard to press. More info below

Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 7:05 pm
by Rettax3
Thanks for the photos, that line looks great on there, and I'm glad it is all fixed now. I'm not 100% convinced the mis-matched type 1/2 cylinders were the problem -as I said, I switched out the type 2 non-bleedable cylinder with a 'wrong' type 1 on my '90 'Retta years ago, and never had a problem with it. I also had to replace the broken plastic line, as you said they can't be found, so I fabricated one out of copper tubing back in the day as a temporary fix, but it is still working great years later...

It looks like you have some kind of adjusting jam-nut on the master cylinder's push-rod? I don't think I've seen an adjustable one on these cars before, very cool.

Re: CLutch hard to press. More info below

Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 8:21 pm
by Beretta1234567
Yah, its the type 2 master cylinder, it comes with an adjustable rod. And its made of metal, not plastic (the cylinder).
Type 1 has a fixed rod. and a plastic cylinder.

The engine was running a bit funky so I decided to put my spare 1990 Beretta 3.1L MPFI v6 EPROM in place of its 2.8 chip, ran great.
I was about to take it around the block again and the engine sputtered and died.
Checked my fuel pressure, and it was barley 20 PSI.
I like how everything decided to break all at once. LOL xD

Re: CLutch hard to press. More info below

Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 10:14 pm
by Rettax3
At least it wasn't all spaced out one or two weeks apart! Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the driver's seat..

I've seen plenty of type 1s and type 2s in plastic, I don't recall seeing a metal master cylinder before. I'll say it again, very nice looking setup you have there.

As for the fuel-pressure issue, probably the pump. PITA to swap out, but at least it is a straight-forward operation... Hmm, considering the timing and the location of everything, make sure you didn't bind the fuel-supply line when doing the clutch or the hydraulics, unlikely but possible.

Re: CLutch hard to press. More info below

Posted: Sat May 18, 2013 2:09 pm
by Cliff8928
The newer master cylinders are metal if you have the concentric slave/throw-out. I have a spare delco one on the shelf.