Beretta.net

Slinky wrote:This is the M62 supercharger I was talking about very popular on the grand am forums

Thats a nice setup. Nut I'm not putting the M62 like that. Mine will be between the Heads and the throttle body.

Rettax3 wrote:The pictures you provided are an M90 -this is the same SC I have on my GTU's L36/L67 hybrid 3800 Series II. They were used from ~'96 or '97 up. The M62 was used on the previous 3800s, the Series I -it looks totally different, and is a lot smaller.

M62.jpg

Now, when you say you won't be using the bypass valve, please tell me you aren't talking about disconnecting the butterfly-valve built into the SC... If you disable that, you can seriously damage your supercharger, and almost certainly WILL damage your engine... It keeps the manifold pressure from spiking during RPM changes. It isn't quite the same as a turbo's bypass valve (or blow-off valve for non-MAF units), as most turbos are placed upstream of the throttle-body (something I've been thinking of changing on one of my next turbo projects ), and it is also not exactly the same as a turbo's waste-gate, but it is more similar to that. Without this bypass valve functioning, well...

I was totally backwards and confused. Fail

But now I got it. There are so many posts online on so many sites that its hard to read them all, but I finally figured it out as there is a lot of conflicting comments from many different people. But I finally found the right answer.

For the application I am using, and for the way this M62 was to be used:
(If I'm understanding this right)
The bypass valve is there for when the throttle is closed and your engine is at idle, or when your cruising at idle.
The Valve will open up thus effectively letting the Supercharger be temporarily bypassed.
Because of the vacuum, if that bypass was not there, your IAT temps will increase due to the increased friction of a vacuum.
Without the Bypass valve you can also encounter backfire and pre-ignition due to the extremely high temperatures.
The bypass valve will reduce friction by creating a circular path for the supercharger to move air. This air will circulate around and around again while the bypass valve remains open. It will not heat up like crazy because there is little to no friction.


When you require boost, like when you press your gas peddle down. Even if your not at WOT, the bypass valve will see the pressure change and thus close a specific amount, the more power you want, the further closed it goes. This allows the supercharger to create boost because now your calling for it.


I stumbled upon this photo:
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6098/6378 ... 429b_z.jpg

1 = Boost Bypass Valve Actuator
3 = Boost Control Solenoid
4&5 = Supercharger
7 = Boost Bypass Valve
8&11 = Throttle Body

Basically, The bypass valve is already setup to function accordingly.
The solenoid is there to be controlled by the ECM to limit the maximum boost pressure that the supercharger can output.

It was in some forum and took me forever to stumble upon it.
Now that I know how this is designed to function, It should not be that hard to put this system together.

Now I do not have to buy a different pulley size, although a larger pulley will be the better way to reduce boost for a supercharger, I will basically find a unit to purchase or build my own; the unit will operate the solenoid and control boost pressure. I will get an electronic pressure meter and connect it to a controller that will send PWM signal to either increase bypass or decrease bypass to adjust my boost. (Assuming this is in fact an on/off solenoid and not a valve controlled motor). Also, I found manually controllable knobs that I can install that can set boost pressure.