Beretta.net

Grabbed a couple new pics after I got a little further on the de-chroming. No more gay mirrors or wheel arch moldings now. I also did the first performance mod.. the "air diffuser bypass" haha I noticed while I was underneath it the y-pipe is 2.75", the replacement muffler is 2.5" and the tail pipe is 2.25"... so that will be remedied soon also. It's too damn quiet.

So after I got the truck registered on Wednesday I realized I was stuck in "limp-home" mode in 3rd gear with no speedo. Got underneath and found the a 12-pin connector unplugged on the 4L60E. Plugged it in and then I had only 1st gear! So I replaced the VSS and now I have all 4 gears. I have not been able to get the 4WD engaged reliably... only twice. So I guess I'll have to take a look at the linkage and see if it needs adjustment.

Lookin' good...

That grille and the new style mirrors are definitely an improvement. Although I think I like SS mirrors better, those ones are far less expensive and readily available.

What's the deal with the 4WD? Is it just not shifting right or doesn't the front axle engage?

The 4x4 light will not come on and the front tires dont spin, other than that I am sure about nothing. It seems like it is either the linkage or the actuator. I read of fullsizechevy.com that if the light does not come on, the actuator is not working. But the floor lever moves in and out of 4WD very easily and it should be more difficult. I have gotten 4L in twice it felt like, but also have had it grind probably a half dozen times and not go in. And even when it was in the light didnt come on.

I made a tech post and who knows, maybe they can guide me.
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/gen ... ngage.html

Ya, if that light doesn't come on you probably need the actuator.. There is a new design actuator which retrofits the older thermal style. It includes the new actuator and a spacer and I think a wire harness if I remember right..

You can always check for power at the actuator harness to make sure it's getting +12V when the lever is in 4WD.

def actuator. I like the arch mouldings esspecialy when you still have the door moulding on.

I bought the electric motor actuator and harness, as well as a "Thrush Welded" 2-chamber muffler. I'm gonna dump the 3" thrush out side in front of the rear tire and not even worry about a tail pipe.

I'd like to remove the door moldings and the rear "Chevrolet" and black out the bumpers. However, I don't know that it's worth the effort. And as much as I aboslutely HATE chrome, it does look kinda naked without the arch moldings on there now...

prolly what you paid for that you couldve had my yukon with all kinds of performance mods donein my sig with less problems for prolly same amount just needed tires and coupe small things

for as much as youve spent on vehicles this year plus the traveling i would think tiff would be getting sick of all this already;)

I've got about 3 grand in it total, and the 4WD works now. I kinda like that it's a beater. I dont feel bad about scratching the paint or getting it dirty. haha

I havent installed the muffler yet because I cant find what was left of my 3" mandrel u-bends from when I built the Camaro exhaust. I still have like 7' of 3" pipe left, but need a couple bends to get it over the axle.

So I finished up my exhaust and it's not as loud as I was expecting. It has a nice rumble... but not that much volume. I know fiberglass packed mufflers get louder with time, but I have a feeling my thrush welded isnt going to change any...

I also picked up a throttle body spacer and injector pod spacer to help with intake air flow. I'm milling a slot between the throttle bores so the dual plane intake can breathe through both throttle bores. It's supposed to be worth 20hp total.

I love the mill at work... just wish it was a CNC, not older than me!

Need some tires and really shouldn't be spending another $1000 on this POS... but DuraTracs on Cragars look badass! I also changed the front bumper to black and a "sport" bowtie instead of the gold one.

Smooth those edges man(not the one in the center). I see that the gasket has an open area too. I find it strange that they did that. I thought it was a injector for each side. The intake has a divider between both sides right? Or was that just the older intakes? Just looking for info.

Very nice tires.

There are two throttle bores, two injectors and the intake is a dual plane. The openings are just like the spacer and TB. By machining away the center of the spacer you allow both planes of the intake to draw from both throttle bores. Believe me, even with amateur machining it is much better than stock or a straight spacer.

Not that I can't, but how in the hell do you not get killed for spending 1k on tires and wheels? I can't even bring myself to spend 300-400 on a set of all season tires so I don't DIE when it snows this winter.

Like I said I could go buy them, but I just can't justify it...

It's just a photoshop dude! I probably will cheap out and just buy the two tires I need for $250, but it is tempting to put that money toward some badass ones. I'd feel better about towing with 4 new tires too. I'm still undecided.

Jon, I have the studded snows from my Beretta if you want them. Tiff wanted them for her Sube, but doesnt like the Cavy wheels and her wheels are 17s, not 16s. I'd give you a good deal on em.