Beretta.net

weba wrote:Welded differential on FWD car kinda means you are not really turning anymore

Dave on 60* did it to his manual... He didn't have any issues.

Obviously I would not like to have it in for when I'm driving the car as a joy ride, but it could still make a trip to a dragway and survive I'm sure.

I'm still debating it... but I will definately keep the LSD.

Only issue with the tie bar I posted is welding is necessary, AND it may result in exhaust clearance issues... it does go right near where the pipe needs to be.

Im afraid of a welded diff. I think it would be a terrible ride. Me being 5-speed, its a huge job to swap out a diff. You could actually do it at the track, even though thats a pain in the ass.

Car balance is crucial to do 2 wheelers with a open diff like me. With just me in the car, it will spin both tires all day. With a passenger, it will only spin the front left.

My old tires:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3 ... 1484550375" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As for the rear bar, that is something I can make fairly simply. Just need the time to do it. It took me like a year to do my rear disk swap. Bought a rear sway bar over a year ago, that is still in the garage too.

I started this topic because I thought that the build your own tie bar was a good idea. It is cheap, no need for welding, no problems with it getting in the way and if you don't like it you can take it off easy.

I'm just about ready to start this little project. I have to buy the bolts still. I also must ask myself why I posted this topic in the General Discussion.

I am going to def do this.
(adding to things to do)

Cant wait to hear the results of the ride quality afterwards.
My girls Cavi has a cradle brace, When I removed it to replace the Cradle the car seemed to be a little looser. I still havent put it back on yet. Seems I'm a "Loaner Tool" these days. I told them to do the waterpump while I was there.

If everything goes right I should get it on this weekend.
Hope to find out from a guy that is putting one on a Cav if a rubber washer is needed. He said that his old bar would make noise.

Take pics and keep us in the loop.

I will, I'll have to PM that guy to get the info.

I talked to another guy that builds them for 75 bucks plus shipping. His bar is bigger and is 1 1/4 inch. The helm joints are also bigger, they are 5/8 by 1/2. This is more of a heavy duty bar. Phil Lindsay can be contacted at P4286arc@aol.com
for those that want one. Just thought I'd tell everybody.
I still have alot of work to do to mine, so I won't get it on this weekend.

Ok.... I have got to remember that I no longer own a 90GT. I have a 95 and the axle is not the same. The rear tie bar will not bolt up the way it would on the 90 or the Cav's. I'm going to try to find a way to make it work, but I could use some ideas from you guys.

What would be the problem. Not long enough or nothing to bolt up to.

Well your right on both. I could drill a hole in the spring mount, but there is enough stress there and the helm joints would lock the bar in place. They are made to be under the axle. I would have to have some sort of 90 degree bend to make it work on the mount. That is if I was going to do that. I may look for some other joints, but I just don't think it's a good idea to mount it there.

Ok I found a mount that may work. The only way to get the tie bar to mount up is to bolt it to the shock mount. I'm talking to the maker and trying to get measurements. If it could work the two holes in front could be bolted to the shock mount. The tube in the back could have a bolt in it and then the helm joints could be bolted to that. Here is a link to the mount. http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet/th ... olt/Detail
Though there may be too much stress on the stock mount and it could break. I will test this as best as I can.