Beretta.net

The main difference between Dexron III and Type F is the friction modifiers. Type F doesn't have any.

GM specs Dexron VI to replace all Dexron III applications.. Manufacturers can no longer claim a fluid is Dexron III because it's no longer licensed, that's why the bottles now say "Dex/Merc"

My 1988 Grand Am (see sig) was also a TH125, I stuck as much aftermarket and beefiness into that damn trans as I possibly could, and 15,000 miles later, it was toast!

FYI, my 1/4 mile time below was with the trans on it's way out and slipping in first...

Screw the TH125!

This makes me worry about sinking any money in to a stupid 4L60E...I hate autos.

3t40 and 4L60 is far from the same setup... and part availability.

Hell you can get blue plate special clutches for the 4L60E I don't want to hear you whine anymore

3X00-Modified wrote:See now I was told that the full Synthetic was my problem... WTF... I think I just overpowered the LSD which caused it to start slipping and it just got worse, and aparently I'm the ONLY one who has ever had a problem with his LSD's...

I'm going to go back to Dex III to see how that works out.

I was told RP is best for "trans" fluid but I am going with something slightly less expensive and said to be better overall for a slushbox. If it works out, I'll let you in on it. Until then I don't want to contribute to anyones transmission failures. lol

woody90gtz wrote:This makes me worry about sinking any money in to a stupid 4L60E...I hate autos.

See 3X00-Modified's post.

The 3t40 is like the saturn manual transmissions... Would you rather use that or the hm282/Getrag?

The 3 speed is a good trans for stock, that is it. I would not rely on it for anything beyond that... however, every time the trans would fail, I was able to somehow make it somewhere safe or get it home slowly.

woody90gtz wrote:This makes me worry about sinking any money in to a stupid 4L60E...I hate autos.

Man, just throw the PATC servos and sonnax pistons and a new reverse boost valve in your 4L60-E and it's a world of difference, all for like $200.

I received my axle parts, going to be making those next weekend or so. :woot: !

Just updating with current picture. Actually this picture is old, but I am just now transferring from my card to the computer.

To add to that picture... (I know I coulda edit it)

I feel that the thicker plates aka drag style lsd is not really worth it unless you're going for a full out build and want to just have top of the line, keeping up with the jones parts. I will say though, if you have the old design, change it! Not much good can really come from the thin plates used in the first design.

This is also a 4t65e style because on the 60e the diff I held on with a clip on the intermediate shaft, which you need the open side on the spiders to access that. So to upgrade to this you need to also modify the axle shaft to accept the same type of clip that's on an axle end.

Also his newest style is thicker than this and has a different hardening spec. I would like you to pull the diff apart if you still have it. I'm curious to see wear marks since I've been told im the only one to wear one out which I think may just be im the only one who inspects it.

Sadly, I didn't take any pictures of the dis-assembly... but I can take pictures of the diff that I had that insert in prior. The method I used to swap the insert was crude and not something I really want to go and do again.

Let me know if you need to see those pics.

Nah, I need pics of the plates, Mine had like 30k on them though so I don't know if its a fair comparison... But I had some hot spots on the plates and slight gauling... and the larger spiders had marks on them since obviously thats the part that was touching the plate.

Those plate I think flex by the spring pressure and they apply pressure to the teeth part of the spider and not so much the flat spot of the spider so surface area is less than desired causing it to slip a bit more, and generate more heat than it should... I think that is why he made the new ones so thick over what those are, but he wont outright say that to me... I just get told I'm the only one to have problems because I'm not running the fluid he recommends...

The fluid he recommends is Dextron III or Type F.... I hate to say it but all Dextron III is an invalid spec, or is also now Dex VI compatible so the only difference is I'm running a synthetic Dex VI vs some of the not synth versions out there, BUT your running synth and so was Eric and neither one of them had problems... but then again I wonder how many miles Eric actually put on his car other than driving to the track, probably not as many as I was doing since I will drive the car to work, and sometimes on a 600 mile day trip for no reason.

Either way its all replaceable parts that wear out so I'm not that concerned... its not like the TG insert that can actually kill the diff as well as the spiders due to there being no soft bronze clutch behind the spiders. I'm still using the same diff as I was before.

I personally don't think I'd be a good candidate reflecting the condition of the insert as of yet. The insert just didnt see enough miles on it to make me believe it'll show any wear. However, this year it plans to see some miles and I don't plan on this trans living forever. Basically, it'll be back apart this year or next and by then I'll be able to see how it turns out.

And the sad part is, even if I wanted to do a fat burn out while it was in..... There was never an open window of opportunity. Between the tuning & trans failure, that was not going to happen...... Especially with the trans failure!

After a few delays with parts and other interruptions that comes with life... Probably going to need to push my deadline out a little. Couple pics to stay active.