Beretta.net

As said above... you have all the conditions to start, but you have not replaced/tested the controller of the spark... Get your ICM tested, or prove that you can see spark while your cranking. Its the CPS that reads wrong when it gets hot when failing... but at the same time yes heat is responcible for killing most of the 2.8 and 3.1 ICM's since those are housed directly under the front exhaust manifold.

So my two ideas would be bring the ICM to a store have them test it... Then Ohm the injectors to see if they are ok and also see if they are spraying when your cranking.

A no start condition is simply no spark or fuel so concentrate on those two systems, unless of course a timing belt has skipped teeth.

Thanks for all the input guys! I am no mechanic,so i'm just going with everything that I was told!!! I haven't completely givin up hope yet.....but,like I said we are all stumped. My dad will be comming over this week to give it another look,so i'll keep ya's posted

update?

Sorry.....UPDATE.....I had to get a new starter,and replaced my plugs and wires again....apparently the wires I got were faulty from advanced....so I took things into my own hands and got heavier duty wires,Oh,and they happen to be PINK!!!! I also had to get a new Thremostat,.....everything seems to be GREAT now. She fires right up everytime no problems......what I do notice now though is that when I let it idle the engine light comes on,when you take off and drive it the light goes out...not sure what this is,but hey everythig seems to be fine now...

some sensor may be going out. see if you can get the code from it and tell us.

I'd almost wager a TPS from your description. Might be tough to get your codes read , being as your car is a '95 and OBD 1.5 but see if you can't get someone to do it for you.

I just replaced the TPS in Febuary.....I will get ahold of the shop and have them scan it and see what they say!!! i'll post as soon as I can get it in and have it done!!!

SuzukiGhostRider wrote:I'd almost wager a TPS from your description. Might be tough to get your codes read , being as your car is a '95 and OBD 1.5 but see if you can't get someone to do it for you.

Actually, I think it's just the V6 that's like that. The 2.2 should still be able to be read with the paperclip.

For some reason I remember something about 2.2s having EGR issues.

I also had the EGR cleaned and a new gasket as well...The EGR Valve itself was fine.....I contacted the mechanic today,and am taking it in Wednesday to have him scan it and see what's comming up...he said something about a "soft code"....whatever that means?!?!...i'll post tomorrow when I find out!

Soft code means it goes away without clearing so it's not a critical item. Also how do you know the egr was working properly? Is it one of the 3 Solenoid type like on the v6. If so those do have a tendency to fry a solenoid an it will throw codes. But that code requires a shut down and restart to clear so it probably is something else.

My dad actually took the EGR out,cleaned it and put the new gasket on...he was pushung it up and down,and said it was good......The car does fine now like I said,I am actually not having any running issues what so ever now that everything has been done to it.....i'm just really finikey when it comes to my cars,I HATE anything being wrong with them and I always fix problems as they occur.....I will post later this afternoon when I get home. I have to take the car in at 12:15pm (michigan time) so I will let ya's know then!!! Thanks for everyone's input and concern!!!

Beretta_gal wrote:My dad actually took the EGR out,cleaned it and put the new gasket on...he was pushung it up and down,and said it was good......

Not quite 100% testing an electromagnetic plunger... LOL

But honestly I don't think thats it since the EGR code light wont go off unless the car is shut off where as yours is turning off as soon as you start moving again.

Ok.........This is what was said while scanned..and excuse me for not being a mechanic....but basically he said my IAC needs to be cleaned,the IAC is functioning properly,just said it may be "coked-up" and needs to be cleaned. He said I just will have to pull the IAC out along with the "metal-casing" that is around it,remove the bolts and the IAC and clean it out. he just said it may be a little plugged/dirty from all the cranking and hell it went through whan I had all the other issues. I know many of you tell me to get another mechanic,but I honestly have had no trouble with this one,and his prices can't be beat!!!and as I said above I'm trying to put into terms what he said...soooo. I will have it cleaned and see what happens from there,and if the engine light still comes on he said to bring it back to be re-scanned at no charge,and he will also do an idle re-learn (Which I could do myself,but hey let him do it!!!)

glad he's taking care of ya! thats all that really matters

Thank-you.....