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Best GTZ to have actually is the 92. Has the best mounts for the motor, best trans and still 180hp. If i found a 92 perfect Quad GTZ somewhere for a good price i would so buy it!

I would have to concur with Geoff. Call me biased.....

i would agree either brake boost or the master cylinder is bad

Try bleeding the brakes while the car is running, that will use the booster to force more fluid through the system. Also is this equipped with ABS? I can't remember when that started... If so bleed the two bleeders on top of the master as well.

no abs, maybe tonight i will try bleeding them with the car running and see what happens, give it one more whirl fwiw.

tried to bleed the brakes with the car running, with no luck... me and my dad are going to try again tomorrow night or saturday depending how things go, if that still dont work, im going to replace the master cylinder.

the only other problems with the car that i noticed so far are the instrument cluster dont light up when you turn the lights on, anyone have any suggestions? im going to replace the switch, after that, i dont know what else to look for??

the oil pressure sending unit needs to be replaced, have the replacement part, need to put it on.
the cofee can exhaust tip needs to come off.
the interior needs to be redone(if i can find the stuff for it, but thats not a priority untill after inspection.
the fan needs to be replaced or theres a problem, it dont kick in.

one other question, theres a sunroof bag in the trunk, and i found a spare, but i have no freaking idea how the sunroof comes out? theres no clips, anyone know, or dont it come out??

Brakes : Probable bad booster, NOT the master cylinder, though it is possible.

Cluster : Check the fuses first.

OPSU : Why? does it not read at all or?

Fan : Fans don't kick on by factory setting in Quads until 223* F which , in my humble estimation is WAYYYYY too late. According to your gauge in other words this would be SLIGHTLY above 3/4 on the gauge when the fan kicks on. See below thread for more information.

http://www.quad4forums.com/forums/showt ... hp?t=19675

oil pressure reads zero, and if you rev it, it goes to about 1/4... figure i start with the sensor, it obviously cant be the pump or id of seized it up by now, lol.

Besides that, wouldn't the SES light come up or a low oil light if the pressure really was 0?

I know mine has before, when I clobbered the oil pan last year. It actually kicked on a light, besides having the pressure go away. As you say, probably a bad sensor. But you also know how temperamental the oil pumps are on those things, don't forget SGR's Achieva...

Cluster lights? Checked fuses I'm sure, but possible the bulbs are just out or feed to them is bad or something as well, but may have to pull it. But switch is a good place to start.

speedy wrote:oil pressure reads zero, and if you rev it, it goes to about 1/4... figure i start with the sensor, it obviously cant be the pump or id of seized it up by now, lol.

Quite possibly a bad sensor, but I would start by slipping a mechanical gauge on it to see what the OP REALLY is. The nylon gears on the oil pumps, yes they are nylon, tend to go quite rapidly when they do! Yes, my SCX was a classic example. I , however, caught it IMMEDIATELY as I pay attention to my gauges.

No , the low oil , or oil light will NOT come on due to no OP, nor will it kick an engine light necessarily. It didn't in my SCX and the CEL worked fine in that car as it threw a few other codes while I owned it and I diagnosed it several times with the diagnostic system via the CEL.

Eh, maybe it was a OBD 1.5 thing, but it has, and more than once. lol Still, check it out speedy.

Just a thought, but typically when a booster fails then you will end up with regular pedal force, aka the same force he feels when the car is not running with no engine VAC... I'm on his side thinking it might be the master; and with the additional force applied from the brake booster the master is showing its weakness or issues.

There is a brake booster testing procedure at the bottom of this guide... but I doubt you can test it well with possible MC failure.

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake05.pdf

i had a mechanic look at it, one with 40+ years experience, he said either theres a different pattern then what im bleeding it in, or the master cylinder, he assured me it wasnt the booster and he did something and explained it, but i cant remember how he did it, lol.

so, afaik, the proper way to bleed this thing is furthest to closest, start with the passenger rear tire, drivers rear tire, pass front tire, drivers front tire, is this the right procedure?? if so, i'll pick up a master cylinder, if not, someone clue me in please? =)

That should be the correct procedure.

And when my quad oil pump went bad it was immediate loss of pressure and suddenly loud valvetrain. haha

Yes Right procedure for bleeding... and it's not that sensitive, I've not followed that and still ended up with good results before so it's really just a guide.