Beretta.net

Posted: **Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:15 pm**

When I am in parked, or idling at a stop light, the gauge will go down to the first mark, but if I give it gas and go up to 1 rpms, the oil pressure gauge will go back up to half and the car evens out, a little.

Posted: **Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:21 pm**

Sounds like the sender, my 94 z was doing kinda the same. Don't give up on that car it will just take a little tlc.

Posted: **Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:29 pm**

Well I don't plan on selling it, if I can't get it running I would cover it. It's just I am not that mechanically inclined. My Dad is, yet he didn't even mention the sender. I haven't a clue what that is, or where it is, or how many holes it will burn in my pockets

. But I'll tell him and see what he says, if he even knows what that is.

Posted: **Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:04 pm**

It's right above your oil filter, I think the sender is 40$ and a coil is about the same.

Posted: **Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:19 pm**

The old man said to ask you if the sender being bad would make the fuel smell so rich, or something to that effect.

Posted: **Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:39 pm**

If you need a pass side door handle I have one in good shape I'm pretty sure

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 12:03 am**

I'm thinking its missing is the rich smell to it, I may be wrong but check the coils like I said be careful doing it but it doesn't cost u anything to check.. And if rettagirl don't have a doorhandle I got one you can have just pay shipping

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 1:12 am**

Ok, number one, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES start "pulling" or otherwise handling your spark plug wires at the coil while the car is running. That's just plain FOOLISH on any car. A running vehicle can give you a jolt up to 20k (yeah, 20,000) volts at the coil. You wanna get chicken fried? Then go for it. Yeah, you might get away with it a few times but you'll get bit eventually. Trust me , it's no picnic....

Number two, why in the world are you talking about removing the radiator and stuff to remove your coils? I'm confused. There's not THAT much of a lack of room there. A 1/4 drive, a swivel adapter, and a short extension and all is well.

Get your coils tested. Your car smells rich for one of a few reasons:

1. You have a coil not firing strong enough or all the time as it should. Thus fuel waste is being spit out the tail pipe.

2. You have a bad/weak spark plug or spark plug wire.

3. Your ICM (Ignition Control Module , it's what the coils sit on) is weak/bad. Get it tested when you get the coils tested.

As to your OP, for one thing, 3.1's and 3100's have a CAM GEAR driven oil pump. In other words, the faster your engine spins up, the higher your OP will be. It shouldn't drop as low as yours, but considering what happens when you "tap the throttle", I see one of two possible scenarios.

1. A bad OPSU (Oil Pressure Sending Unit). <----- Most likely.

2. A worn oil pump gear not grabbing enough and the pump is spinning up properly when sped up.

The miss, the fuel smell and the crap idle are all one problem. Most likely a coil or ICM. o

The pump is most likely the OPSU and it is CHEAP and CAKE to install my friend.

Good luck.

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:59 am**

SuzukiGhostRider wrote: As to your OP, for one thing, 3.1's and 3100's have a CRANK GEAR driven oil pump. In other words, the faster your engine spins up, the higher your OP will be. It shouldn't drop as low as yours, but considering what happens when you "tap the throttle", I see one of two possible scenarios.

1. A bad OPSU (Oil Pressure Sending Unit). <----- Most likely.

2. A worn oil pump gear not grabbing enough and the pump is spinning up properly when sped up.

The miss, the fuel smell and the crap idle are all one problem. Most likely a coil or ICM. o

The pump is most likely the OPSU and it is CHEAP and CAKE to install my friend.

Good luck.

Its a Cam gear drive pump really just like a Small block... And the gear's I've seen from TONS of engines, Low mile and 300k+ have never been worn. I'm guessing its just a shitty OPSU or he's got some excess bearing clearances so thats allowing his oil pressure to drop when at low idle.

Pull the distributor plug out and you can inspect that gear if you have any doubt in your mind that may be the issue.

Also the first dash is about 20-30 psi at idle... Depending on the mileage of the motor thats probably not that far off from normal for that engine.

Trevor wrote:Well, I took my car to Auto Zone... And the guy said that it is a Valve, and thats why my car is sputtering. That, and I could have a Oil Pressure Gauge out.... soo looks like I am going to get another vehicle, because I can't afford either.

First mistake is your taking advice from an Auto Zone employee... Second mistake is you think it would be cheaper to buy a new car than fix the issue at hand...

Sometimes people confuse the hell out of me.

Change the coils and see how the car runs then.

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 10:11 am**

SuzukiGhostRider wrote:Ok, number one, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES start "pulling" or otherwise handling your spark plug wires at the coil while the car is running. That's just plain FOOLISH on any car. A running vehicle can give you a jolt up to 20k (yeah, 20,000) volts at the coil. You wanna get chicken fried? Then go for it. Yeah, you might get away with it a few times but you'll get bit eventually. Trust me , it's no picnic....

Number two, why in the world are you talking about removing the radiator and stuff to remove your coils? I'm confused. There's not THAT much of a lack of room there. A 1/4 drive, a swivel adapter, and a short extension and all is well.

Get your coils tested. Your car smells rich for one of a few reasons:

1. You have a coil not firing strong enough or all the time as it should. Thus fuel waste is being spit out the tail pipe.

2. You have a bad/weak spark plug or spark plug wire.

3. Your ICM (Ignition Control Module , it's what the coils sit on) is weak/bad. Get it tested when you get the coils tested.

As to your OP, for one thing, 3.1's and 3100's have a CRANK GEAR driven oil pump. In other words, the faster your engine spins up, the higher your OP will be. It shouldn't drop as low as yours, but considering what happens when you "tap the throttle", I see one of two possible scenarios.

1. A bad OPSU (Oil Pressure Sending Unit). <----- Most likely.

2. A worn oil pump gear not grabbing enough and the pump is spinning up properly when sped up.

The miss, the fuel smell and the crap idle are all one problem. Most likely a coil or ICM. o

The pump is most likely the OPSU and it is CHEAP and CAKE to install my friend.

Good luck.

Well I just had a bad coil on my 89 2.8 and this is how I found it and didn't get lit up, its kinda dangerous but I've tried to check coils and its a pita so this is my method...

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:03 am**

an Ohm meter across the two wire poles will typically tell you everything you need to know...

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:22 am**

You have to check primary side so that means taking all the coils off, I think it a little easier the way I do it. But that's up to the OP, I'm an electrician so a little zap here and there isn't a big deal but if you do it right it won't get you at all...

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:48 am**

Lol, you'd think being an electrician you'd be more careful. I don't want a 20k zap, but it wouldn't kill ya. Amps are what's gonna fry you. They make tools for this. I'd rather buy them, but to each, his own.

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:57 am**

88gtz wrote:You have to check primary side so that means taking all the coils off, I think it a little easier the way I do it. But that's up to the OP, I'm an electrician so a little zap here and there isn't a big deal but if you do it right it won't get you at all...

You can check the primary side, you dont HAVE to... You should also see a sign of failure on the secondary side.

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 12:20 pm**

Oh I was told you have to check the primary side, post up values for the OP so he can check his if you have them. I would but I'm at work.

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