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going to order these this week sometime, we will see if that fixes it or not.

The punch amp might be a different story, it doesnt do nothing with the power connected so im hopping its not the transformer i think those are costly. if im able to fix it with some transistors then that would be cool, it has quite a few in it and there in sets of 2 and all different.

If i get that one working, ill look at repairing my 4 channel punch 4.6x, i know it has bad transistors because there is about 4 of them that are cracked wide open, but i de soldered a bunch of them a while ago thinking they are all the same and they are not, so i need to get a data sheet for that amp to figure out what chips i need and where to put them lol.
The punch 4.6 got pretty hot running my 2 12's so i had a computer fan mounted at the side to keep it cool, i run it pretty hard for 2 years so its no surprise it blew up.

I have one of those Pioneer amps collecting dust in my garage rafters...

I keep thinking I may use it someday but I've never got around to installing it in a car. It used to be in my old 95 when I had the big thump thump box...

i was more after the rockford amp, i didnt even know he had the pioneer it was in a separate ad, he wanted 50 each for them and i got both for 60 bucks only reason i took the pioneer too. but its an older amp it probably works 10 times better then most new amps today, the thing is huge for only 760W max.

If it works decent once i repair it, i might be interested in the one you have if the price is right. at least something for now for a budget system, i could run each amp bridged to each of my 12's and have half ass matching stuff lol.

i seen a guy on youtube with 5000 watt rockford amps, he had 2 of them in his car with 2 18's, he got 2 more of the same amps and was running 4 of them.. 2 amps per sub, he hooked each voice coil up to its own amp. 10,000 watt per sub.. thats just a little insane, but my subs are dvc and these amps are 2 channel i could try running each channel to each voice coil and see how it works.

I dont know how many watt my subs are, they are old school rockford punches, they dont have alot of travel like the newer ones, if i was to put them in a ported box i would defiantly pop the voice coils right out of them. in a good solid box they kick pretty hard, they are very stiff so it takes a fair amount of power to move them.

this is the same amp i had running my system for a couple years and finally gave up on me. punch 4.6x

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-P1CKSKtDQ

i found a old school punch 800a2 on ebay, its 400W rms i think i want it but cant afford it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCKFORD-FOSGAT ... 2c627fadc1

That thing is probably a beast.

picked up an old rockford 4600 4 channel amp today, 60W rms x4

Got it bridged front/rear to each of my 12's works amazing but this is only temperay until i get one of my other amps repair to power my subs and going to use this one on my 6x9's and front speakers, it has the removable X cards for the high pass and low pass filters.


I could have gotten a punch 150 old school for $50 bucks but didnt get a reply until after i had left the area and i had already drove over 2 hours to get the other one.

I also have a rockford 4.6x im guessing its a newer version of the 4600 i just picked up, i run it for 2 years on my 12's before i fried it and im in the middle of repairing along with my 125.2 punch.

Pioneer turns on yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah yipppppyyyyyyyy LOL

still on my kitchen table apart but i got the new mosfets today delivered to my door i ordered them on the 31st last month

The replacement mosfets are slightly different. same characteristics but they are not insulated like the originals so i have to figure out if i can ground them or not i have to screw them down to the heat sinks


edit.. yes they do short out grrrrrrrrrrr. now i need to figure out a way to insulate them

pioneer is working, sweeeeet so excited lol.. i actually was able to fix it. got it running a 10 inch punch sub off my battery charger atm for the past half hour can wait to wire it up to my subs tomorrow.

anyone have some free none working amps to donate lol.

very good!

Did you put fresh heatsink compound on them?

ErichZ26 wrote:very good!

Did you put fresh heatsink compound on them?

not yet i have to pick some up, there is lots on them for testing it.

The parts i got are none insulated and i should have gotten the insulated ones. I had to make a rail to fit across the mosfets and drilled some holes to screw them down and i put insulator pads under them. I will have to order the insulated parts when i order the stuff for the rockford amps i have, i talked to customer service yesterday and they cross referenced the ones i need so i have all part numbers i need to get them ordered now.

I wonder if Arctic Silver will work fine or should i get the standard white crap thermal paste

Ok ok.. ok lol.. so.. maybe some new thermal paste would be a wise idea.. i thought i could get away with testing it in the car today for a few minutes... i think i was wrong..

The transistors i bought are non-insulated.. the originals were insulated. so i had some thermal pads i stuck down on the casing and i constructed an aluminum piece to go over the top of them, drilled a couple holes into the casing for screws and got everything fastened down ( i spend like 2 hours on this until i felt it was holding them down tight enough and i was satisfied with it) so it wasnt just oh lets shove this on there that will work LOL. it worked for over an hour on the battery charger in my living room last night.

Hooked it up in the car today, got it setup, pounding great. went for a short drive to test it out, didnt make it to the end of town and it popped. it was thumping pretty good.. both fuses popped and it smelled bad. something overheated, im guessing its the new parts i just put in due to the fasteners...

The place had insulated parts of the same.. but out of stock and takes 16 weeks to order guess this amp is on hold for a while..

@2ohm bridged its supposed to put out something like 560 watts. it does thump pretty good. but compared to the old rockford 4600x 60W rms x 4 amp the pioneer is no where close to the same quality. the rockford is such a clear sounding thumping amp, when i hooked it up i was surprised at the sound quality and how hard it hits, it may not be so loud you hear me coming for 3 miles but its a nice solid clear thump. the pioneer works pretty hard to come even half close to the rockford.

I wasnt too excited on repairing this old pioneer anyways because i suspected it wouldnt be very powerfull, i was only repairing it first because the parts cost me under $15 bucks shipped to my door, and was a learning experience for me.

I priced out parts for the rockford 125.2 punch and its going to be around $50 shipped, i feel confident that i can make it work now after playing with this other POS amp. i will take more care in the rockford though thats for sure.

the only thing for the rockford there was 1 part they couldnt match up for me but gave me a suggestion on 1, they didnt guarantee it would be 100% safe to use in replace of the other part so not sure what im going to do there..

The part i need is...
U1620
the part they looked up or me was MUR1620CTR
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datashe ... 0CTR-D.PDF

Now not being able to find a data sheet for the original U1620 i cant compare it... dont know if i order these and hope for the best or what to do..

there is some parts that are almost 5 bucks each.. and i need 4 of them. going to replace every one of them in the rockford. i need 12 all together.

Does anyone have a rockford fosgate 125.2 punch amp.. old school...

I need someone to open one up and tell me what chips are in it because i think the one i have has been worked on before and has mixed up parts.

numbered like this.. looking at top of board.
power side.....................speaker output side..
1 2 3 4..........................5 6 7 8
.............................................
9 10 11 12.....................13 14 15 16

1 50N06V = 526-NTE2395
2 50NO6V = 526-NTE2395
3 U1620R KAK
4 LM317T = 511-LM317T

5 IRF540-F ?????????
6 IRF540-F ?????????
7 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF
8 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF

9 50N06V =526-NTE2395
10 50N06V = 526-NTE2395
11 U1620 AKA
12 LM337SP = 511-LM337SP

13 IRF540 = 844-IRF540PBF
14 IRF540 = 844-IRF540PBF
15 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF
16 IRF9540 = 844-IRF9540PBF

Ok so now the confusing part... # 5-6 should be the same part as 13-14 but the 5-6 part has a F on the end.. i know this might sound the same.. but most parts i found that have 1 single different number on the end means a lot... different polarity ect..

Parts 3-11 and not the same.. took me 2 days searching to find a similar part if you notice #3 U1620R KAK and #11 U1620 AKA.. kak and aka are the diode polarity of the chip. do not confuse these as the same thing..
I found these as replacement.. NTE6240 & NTE6244
NTE6240– Positive Center–Tap
NTE6244– Negative Center–Tap

im not sure what one is what #3 or #11 im so confused at this point lolz but i know you need the 2 different parts either way..

#5-6 are IRF540F and #13-14 dont have F on the end.. i think the "F" ones are a few more amps but just looking at data sheets now its only 2 AMP different so probably not an issue to use the same ones..

#4 and #12 i would think should be the same part but in mine they are different..

Part numbers one the right of each are Mouser part numbers..