Beretta.net

It could be the egr, that was the first code it ever threw at me a couple months back. That was only once tho, had it scanned a few times after that, and it was evap canister and random misfire, I'm guessing due to a vac leak. It's felt like a different car sense the light went out on it's own. Idle is smother, and both pedals are more firm and responsive. With the light now being off, will there be stored codes to read?

Boy am I brain dead....I remember all that now that you said it.
Yes you can have stored codes even with the light off.

I had the car looked at and scanned on Friday. It threw a code saying evap purge system no flow or something like that, along with random misfire, and he said it also came up with low o2 on sensor 1 or something like that. He recommended I replace the evap purge solinoid. On restarts when the car is warm, it goes even more crazy now. This seems to have made it worse. It has a surging idle on most warm restarts, and sometimes when cold. It always idles out to normal after surging anywhere between 15 sec. to a minute. Sometimes it will be fine upon start up, but once I put my foot on the gas pedal it will hesitate, like it's not getting enough fuel. When this happens I coast in neutral and I watch the car rev itself. The car also revs itself just before the idle returns to normal from surging. SOMEONE HELP! WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS THING? I also can't seem to get a recording of it doing this, every time I've tried it's run fine. More below.

It won't do it in front of ANY mechanic either, it's almost like it knows someones watching. WEIRD AND VERY ANNOYING! Oh yeah, and no SES light after 75 mi. sense clearing the codes.

I'm sorry if this was already covered, but have you tried cleaning the TB out?

If I was having intermittent driving problems with weird reactions, I would try cleaning out the TB and make sure all the sensors are working properly.

I would also check all your engine/chassis grounds. They have a tendency to loosen or crack off and cause all kinds of weird issues.

TB was just cleaned a few weeks back. I got a video, will try to upload soon. It stalls in the video, first time in months.

I had the whole upper intake removed, cleaned and put back on along with a new gasket on monday.
Thread bumped for someone to see pictures.
I also had it inspected, and I would just like to add that the rear subframe only has some surface rust, and it's not enough to make it not inspectable. This was not a "lick and stick type deal, and neither was last years. Figured I'd try to give a little update on the condition of the underbody, sense stupid little engine problems are all tht get discussed in this thread lately. Seems good with the cleaned up upper so far, just waiting for it to throw me an SES light again. Haha.

SES light has returned.
Same codes, evap, and random misfire. Still surging and reving itself on most startups. It has more power now for sure with the upper cleaned.
Still annoyed, and I'm begining to get frustrated with mechanics around here.
SGR stated previously the misfire is caused by the evap vaccum leak, I try to explain this to the people who look at/work on the car, and they all just want to throw solinoids and sensors at it, and clean stuff. I want to replace the evap canister, and all the vac lines. I think that should solve it, but nobody wants to listen to me, everyone is just like, "ok, but lets try this first". I have a vid that I will upload to my flickr tomorrow, sorry I forgot about it. The audio aint all that great, but you can clearly see the rpm's and oil pressure fluctuate, and then it revs itself, and stalls. Maybe when someone sees what it does, I can get some advice. It still runs smooth as silk after it gets done F'in around on startups. Idle when stopped, either in park or drive is normal, and it's smooth under throttle.

Could be just the purge valve. It's back there by the coils, I'm sure you bumped into it changing plugs, look for a green cap.
In the old days the purge valve was on the canistor, but they changed that on the newer cars. Glad they did, those canistors with the valve cost alot.
Oh and don't even try to unplug it, that will make it stay open.
Sure would like to hear that you got this car fixed and that you will keep it.

I'd like to get the damn thing fixed too. Lol
I'm keeping it, no question about that. I LOVE THIS CAR!
I'll look into that purge valve.

Good to hear that your going to keep it.
SOB! No it's the same part. Damn I thought that I had already posted that before.
Your right, it's time to check or replace the lines.

I got to quit jumping to the last post. Again I've lost track of what was done. I'm going to reread all of this.

Just to be sure check the lines that go to the purge valve. There should be a sticker on the hood that will show which one goes to the canistor. There could have been a mix up when the new valve was put on. Boy I'm really reaching on that one.

Well, sorry if you already did, but since its giving a code for the evap, did you try a junkyard evap canister already to see if it clears up? No experience with later model Beretta's so I may be giving pointless advice.

Also, what were you gonna trade it for?

I have not tried a different canister yet.
As far as trading it, it was an 01' monte carlo LS with 140k on the body, but the guy claimed it had a new engine and trans w/ 40k on it. He could not prove this, so no deal. Idiot also claimed it got 40mpg on the highway with some new injectors, which he also could not prove. I traded an 02' monte for this Z because it needed some bodywork, and sense the Z was so clean I had to have it. My old monte had the sport suspension, factory 5 spokes, and the nascar type spoiler. The sport susp package included front strut tower brace, and a larger rear swaybar, and the 01' I was thinking of trading for had none of this, just a base monte, so that killed the deal pretty much right away. I still have a soft spot for the 00-05 montes, but I'll hold out till I find the right one, and hang on to the Z. (the right monte would be a "low mile" (under 50k) 05 LS 3400 w/sport susp. pkg, factory 5 spokes and the nascar type spoiler, leather, roof etc. oh, and it has to be BLACK!)

It could be the lines that leave the intake, go to the purge valve, leave there and go to the canister, OR go from the canister to the fuel tank that's bad... OR you could simply have a bad gas cap that's not holding pressure.

Surging, miss fires and evap code all sound like a large vac leak... Might want to check the first line that goes from the intake to the purge and also the PCV valve lines to make sure they are all good.