Beretta.net

A green top SR!

Thats too much jdm for me to handle.

Im looking into a KA-T setup for my friends 240. The kit is the easy part, and t25's are a dime a dozen. Its the tuning part that's annoying.

Get that john-deer green lawn mower sounding engine part with the pull start cable below the "twin cam" out-ta here!!!

The header with the dual O2 bungs (one in both cross over tubes) is mine. The extra is for a wideband later down the road for WOT fine tuning.
And no, I'm not running EGR on the orange hot rod. Less heat and carbon, and I can use the EGR wires as a wideband input for logging into the PCM.

Cliff8928 wrote:Well, this pic is from the original owner/creator of them when they were new...


I can snap a couple more of them from all angles though.

I've been away for awhile. I saw the link but it does not work anymore. I posted 3 more pictures of the headers when I had them off to send to get recoated the last time.

The new web page for pictures is now--http://wrx-now.tripod.com/beretta_headers/

those headers look sick who has them now should use them

I got the headers form piaras. they're a little worse for wear right now and need to basically be re-made.. But the design is killer.

The rear is convoluted though... Much better to run the primaries of the rear straight back down and join the front to it under the car like SuperDave's. The front design is great though.

Those headers will make more power and are a better design than those for sale. The problem is they would cost a lot more!

The rear is convoluted but so are these!

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/exhausttech.htm

IsaacHayes wrote:The rear is convoluted though... Much better to run the primaries of the rear straight back down and join the front to it under the car like SuperDave's. The front design is great though.

I have to agree that the long tube design Dave came up with would have been a much better project for our cars.

The S&S design, and the new ones from Forced are NOT the best, but may be the compromise.

Were I to spend the additional money to replace my S&S modified headers, I would be looking at custom built long tubes.

IsaacHayes wrote:Get that john-deer green lawn mower sounding engine part with the pull start cable below the "twin cam" out-ta here!!!

The header with the dual O2 bungs (one in both cross over tubes) is mine. The extra is for a wideband later down the road for WOT fine tuning.
And no, I'm not running EGR on the orange hot rod. Less heat and carbon, and I can use the EGR wires as a wideband input for logging into the PCM.

Good idea Isaac. I asked for the bung to be placed so that I could put a wide band in later.

Asylum, the reason long tubes were not considered for the L body headers by SDI, is that there would have to be several sets made for all the cars transmissions and motor setups. I'm not even sure it's possible to run long tubes like Dave's on a 4T60-E car.

The SDI/WOT headers fit all the V6's, all the transmissions. And being equal length they should make more power than S&S. And S&S makes at least 20hp to the wheels on a 3400.

They all aren't for the l-body, but you get the idea...

Not bad... I imagine that all the rear header is the only difference between all the different chassis.

I would love to swap to the equal length ones if they didn't interfere with my coolant lines and oil pressure sender... I hate putting a T on a pipe fitting because they always end up leaking.

3X00-Modified wrote:I would love to swap to the equal length ones if they didn't interfere with my coolant lines and oil pressure sender... I hate putting a T on a pipe fitting because they always end up leaking.

Coolant lines have been a non-issue on most makes/models, the clearances are so tight, my own human error can make the difference weather or not you have to move the oil pressure sensor. If you do want to in fact run our headers, we can work something out to make sure you clear, but as stated on another board, you can always move the OPSU to the other side f the block, and cap the front port...