Beretta.net

Cliff8928 wrote:You don't need to log the wideband all the time.. So if you have an A/C pressure sensor, just make sure the A/C is off while you are logging, then when everything is said and done disconnect the wideband and plug the sensor back in.

You make a good point. I remember him saying he wasn't going to keep it in the car all the time anyways since he wanted to test it in the camaro too, just to see what that shows.

Burning through gas as quickly as it has, I figured it had to be rich all the time and it would be showing on the plugs no matter what. I haven't really put my fut in it all that much yet. But perhaps being a 5spd and the ECM killing the fuel when coasting off the throttle is enough to make a difference.

The purge circuit is where I think I'll log the wbo2. That and the EGR are already disabled with SuperDave's chip anyway.

The best way to log the wideband data in my Camaro is with a video. That's how I finally noticed I had 5" of vacuum at WOT with my old carburetor. That requires you to pay attention to the road when going wide open. I could do this with the Beretta as well.

I've done the video method before when alone. I've also rode along as someone else drives and watched or you can download the data from mine atleast and when the O2 content changes you can tell there waqs a shift and you can line it up in your datalogs.

of course once you get it dialed in you don't need it at all as a fuel pressure gauge will ensure your not lean.

Took the car over to my tint/buff guy last night and he talked me into doing a full cut & buff on the whole car. He did the spot on my quarter where I ran the clear and also part of a front fender that had some orange peel and it sold me. So tomorrow he's doing the tint, and Sunday the whole car is getting buffed after I spend some time this week sanding it.

I see on bstuff you say you need to find a winter beater now...

Setting in that with all this work you will cringe if you get salt on it... you can never stop rust unless you avoid what causes it... Protect it all you want, but just think, all those little holes in the subframe, and unibody, you couldnt get coating up in there so thats where it would start, behind all the undercoating

This is why my car, even if I could get it better protected, will never see winter and salt. It just wont last.

Yeah. I need a cheap 4WD truck for the winter. There was a Vortec Silverado a month or two ago I should have bought, but it was a 305 so I passed. I guess I could have swapped in the Vortec 355 out of my Camaro and built a solid-roller 406... hahaha

Run it all year long you wimps. A car wash with undercarriage cleaner 2 or 3 times over the winter season and your good to go. Rust dosent happen THAT fast...

You live in PA, not NY. PA doesnt even use salt on the roads, correct?

I washed the underside of my 95Z multiple times a winter, and it still rotted to piss pretty quickly.

Yeah, they use salt here. NOTHING holds up. Brand new struts, I ran the car ONCE in light snow and washed it shortly after. They are rusted to crap now in spots. Tapping the rockers under neath the car there is PILES of salt dust that comes out.....

Barry wrote:Run it all year long you wimps. A car wash with undercarriage cleaner 2 or 3 times over the winter season and your good to go. Rust dosent happen THAT fast...

Salt does quick work of metal... 2-3 times over the winter is not nearly enough.

RI is worse and uses straight salt... Hell CT is now resorted to BRINE... a liquid mixture they are going to pour directly on the roads... Lets just kill anything that's not aluminum and plastic.

They salt and brine our roads all winter long, even if it isnt snowing! The roads are usually always white regardless. It is cool because burnouts look extra dark

So today, for the second time, this pig blew the press-in fitting for the heater core line right out of the intake. It only seems to do it at WOT at 6000rpm. haha It's the same rigged setup I had with the 95 for years, but for reason isnt cutting it with this car. So this weekend I'll have to pull it out, pull off the rubber hose and clamps and weld the steel lines together like I should have to begin with. (didnt have a welder back in 2006 though)

Here's a couple pics to show the tint and the exhaust that I repositioned back up where it should be close to the bumper. I still need to align the front end better, but I ran out of adjustment before. The car was hit in the front at some point, but one of the body guys I know thinks he can straighten it out.

Very sweet Woody, be sure the doors are locked or girls will try to jump in when you come to a stop.

Pulled the front header out today so I could actually get to the coolant line into the lower manifold. Got that fixed and pulled the upper manifold and finally installed my EGR block off to gain some room, and welded my wideband bung in the header. Ran my wideband wiring through the fresh air vent for now and hooked up the gauge mounted in the dash with an extra (broken) stereo trim plate and wired the connections.

When I started it up I was like holy poop! 11:1AFR! But it did steadily come down to ~15 for a while until I had my intermittent idle fluctuation at 18:1. Easy driving down the road it was about 13-14, and 18 off the throttle in gear. Didnt go WOT yet. Gotta hook it up to datalog now!

You should be able to run the wires through where the rack goes into the firewall... That's where my power wire goes... Right on the top of the rack and then into the car.. Previous owner did it that way and it works. _shrug_