Beretta.net

Doesn't sound too bad. Biggest trouble is the location. LOL

its manageable... I've done one before after doing the LIMG. Pain, yeah a little... But not as bad as it could be.

Hey Ace if you do it, get the O-ring from GM. I couldn't find one at my parts stores. I checked three of them and none of them had anything close. 1988GTU found the part number, it's 24504709.

Or just get the whole thing, clip and all...

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 99+2999999



Napa Part #BK 7304943
whopping $6.95

Yeah, not sure I can afford that... LMAO

I will get to it soon enough. Right now I need to get past this week. :p

You sure you don't want a 3400 intake? I have one on my 3100 and love it. It really is almost a need. My engine is no longer hurting for air. Other than grinding the intake and a few rockers it was one of my best mods.

Meh. I think I will eventually one day do a 3400 swap with a 3500 intake, exhaust, etc. probably next year or so. Not to the extreme that Jon has done with cams and all the extra NOS work, but just so its good to go.

However no point doing that kind of LIM work with a 220k 3100 engine. I will drive it till it blows or till I have a 3400/3500 and tranny ready to drop in it. And yes it would stay auto. If I was going to do a stick, it would be with a different shell. Not going to bother doing a change to stick mod on this one.

Also, with a little help, I can probably build the custom exhaust for it that I want. I have an idea for dual exhaust actually that would end up still looking stock, tips and all at first and possibly second glance, till you looked under it. The shop I have here has the tools. LOL Just need the know how.

You would want to stick to a full 3400 unless you plan on doing 3500 heads... which just remember drops your CR just a bit... from 9.5:1 down to 9.15:1. I don't think anyone has proven a benefit of just a 3500 upper on a 3400 engine... since thats the only other combo that would work.

Well that eliminates that then. :p

Thanks for the heads up. hehe

Oh and if you ever get down the road and have parts to get rid of, let me know. lol

OK.

Started working on the interior today. Here are some before shots....









Yes I know, not much of a sub & amp but it kicks plenty.





Headliner really isn't in bad shape at all. No sags yet.



Visors are simply trash.



How do you get the dirt stains out of that rear panel from the speakers breathing?



This looks to be the hardest thing to fix. Not sure what I'm doing here. Both sides are like this, but this one is the worst.

Ok, a couple hours later, I had pulled all of this. Most of it went fine. Many things are going to get a thorough cleaning. As you could see, it needs it. Keep in mind, this sat for nearly 3 years before I put it on the road prior to hitting the deer. As a result (being it sat outdoors through one winter/summer before it finally went into storage for 2 years) it suffered mold etc on the carpet and other places. Then in storage it suffered mice. I have little damn seed shells everywhere. Lots of cleanup to fix that. Even have them in the space above the headliner and the drivers door is full of them. I have to pull the door panels anyway.











Yes, the dreaded lower pillar rust through. Both sides are like this. I plan to fix this as part of the work. Will see how it goes.

Anyway, that's what I got done for today. Eventually most of the interior will be removed. Then rust spots found and fixed, painted, etc.

Wow, dude. Fresh paint and you didnt fix the rot first?

Due to time constraints, I didn't have enough time to pull all the crap I needed to to get at those corners. Since the damage stops before the outer panels, going to fix, prep, and shoot them as is. I know I have at least 2 spots in the floor pan that need the same sort of attention. They all will be fixed and painted at the same time. It sucks, but its the way it had to be.

Now you know why I'M pulling all this crap out! Once the seats and rear upper/lower quarter panels are out, the carpet goes. Then will find all the bad spots, cut/weld/etc, prep and paint. I know for a fact I have both lower pillar corners, the passenger foot well, a spot in the trunk above the muffler about the size of a quarter, and lord knows what else. Going to be going over the rear towers too, but I think they are fine at the moment.

I would have much rather done a full strip and paint job like you had done, but did not have the time for it. So this is the way it has to be. But it will be ok!

Oh and if anyone has a lead on a place that may sell the lower pillar corner metal, let me know.

crap...I had a link on my home PC a while ago but I reformatted recently. It was very expensive though. Being a complex shape it will be difficult to fabricate, but that's probably still the best option. Find someone with an English wheel...

only place you can get that is GM direct, OR from VPI... There should be a PN on the website.

Its the whole hinge pillar support you need. You may also need the reinforcement depending on how bad it is. That amount of rot is why I junked the red car. Pinky has none of this and the underside in that area only had surface rust.

3. Hinge Pillar....
(R)'87-93...2258-1493
(L)'87-93...2258-1494
(R)'94-96...2258-8184
(L)'94-96...2258-8185

4. Reinforcement...
(R)'87-96...1410-5366
(L)'87-96...1410-5367