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Damn Jon that looks really good!

I was speaking to Billy and here are a couple of things he uses on the 4t60/65e "hybrid" units he builds.

He gets rid of the stock chain set up and refuses to use "gemini chains" and uses a 7/8" chain or the GM Race 1" chain, if he can find them, but they are apparently getting very hard to find.

He uses an upgraded input shaft and a custom 12 clutch 3rd clutch pack.

He is not all that specific on the details but he is going to building one for Rodney sooner or later it seems and I'm SLOWLY getting info out of him. ROFL!

asylum wrote:I was speaking to Billy and here are a couple of things he uses on the 4t60/65e "hybrid" units he builds.

He gets rid of the stock chain set up and refuses to use "gemini chains" and uses a 7/8" chain or the GM Race 1" chain, if he can find them, but they are apparently getting very hard to find.

He uses an upgraded input shaft and a custom 12 clutch 3rd clutch pack.

He is not all that specific on the details but he is going to building one for Rodney sooner or later it seems and I'm SLOWLY getting info out of him. ROFL!

Yes, the same type of info I finally got from Jeff when I prodded him enough to get my point across. Bottom line is I would like to know what I'm paying for, I don't ask for whats done so I can go out and do it myself, because some of what you and he said is done I can't do... Such as a "custom clutch pack" Jeff also uses a complete part from the 65e and machines it down in areas to fit the 60e.

I've been successfull with stock GM chains... I'll see what I did to this one recently compared to what it was when I installed it, which will then determine if I go get a new one, Stock chains are 7/8" wide btw... so what brand does he typically go for if he can't get the GM 1"... Also with the GM 1" I'm assuming he now needs the corresponding drive and driven gears to go with it?

A 282 wouldn't need an engine stand though... LOL only 70lbs. And when do you need to take one apart unless you are putting in a quad 4 4th gear? hehe
Jon, that looks like you could have it positioned like it is, and "drop" the parts down and they would stay in the right place perfectly...

IIRC 65-e's have 2 chains and the 60-e chain is one... I'm not sure the 60-e chain is as weak as the 65-e duals...

IsaacHayes wrote:Jon, that looks like you could have it positioned like it is, and "drop" the parts down and they would stay in the right place perfectly...

That was pretty much the whole idea... and it allows me to rotate it so its sideways so I can install the 2-3rd clutch pack assy with the sprags installed... with out using the special $240 tool to install it with the trans in the pictured position.

http://www.etoolcart.com/clutchassembly ... aller.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I used to do this by positioning one saw horse under the bell housing, and then one on the opposite side almost making a T shape from above, but the other side was resting on that sawhorse by a BOLT screwed into the trans housing... and then I would have to lift the housing up when I was ready to do the 2-3 pack, install that at a horizontal position, and then proceed to drop the trans back down to my balancing act so the sprags wouldn't fall out of the clutches. This is one HELL of an upgrade from how I'm used to rebuilding a transmission.

IsaacHayes wrote:A 282 wouldn't need an engine stand though... LOL only 70lbs. And when do you need to take one apart unless you are putting in a quad 4 4th gear? hehe

I had to split mine to drop in the limited slip, but that was so easy a caveman could do it.

Got my heads back yesterday. Standard 3 angle valve job, he said one exhaust seat was a bit out of round so that took some attention to fix, but everything else was good... No bent exhaust valves and he also put a second angle on the valve itself above the 45* He said its something he does and it actually helps a little.

It was also nice to hear him say that I did a very good job porting by keeping the intakes a bit rough and the exhausts nice and smooth, and as long as my method and what I changed is advised by those who have tested those heads then I should be good to go. He will NOT do porting at his shop because you need to go directly to someone who is experienced with that set of heads, you can't just go to a porting shop since they may not know what will benefit that head. Hence why I got my advice from Ben, Granted he did not tell me all his secrets, but I was at least advised on what not to do such as changing the lower radius.

I'll get some pics up later. Still a little bummed on the whole Head Gasket fandango, but hopefully they resolve this quickly, for now I'll just get my trans built and ready to go, That should keep me busy enough.

And Isaac, yes those transmissions are tough but not bullet proof, anytime your building a project and adding power it's definately advised to crack into your transmission and inspect everything and ensure there are no issues before you throw it in, You can't find a 5-speed for our applications that doesn't have a decent amout of miles on it either. Not inspecting it could result in lots of money lost later.

The sad part is that I split both of my 5-speeds, found damage, and couldn't get the parts to fix them. So I combined the 2 and made one "okay" one.

You can still get getrag parts, but you have to buy them all in a big lot from what I have come across. Around 400 bucks.

Barry wrote:The sad part is that I split both of my 5-speeds, found damage, and couldn't get the parts to fix them. So I combined the 2 and made one "okay" one.

You can still get getrag parts, but you have to buy them all in a big lot from what I have come across. Around 400 bucks.

400 for a rebuild "kit" for a trans is pretty fair/almost good. Although for an auto kit, you get a lot more for your buck. :nutkick:

That was very nice work you did and that's great that he said that about what you did.

A better picture of the trans stand showing what I modified.





And damn I hate 110v welders when it comes to a heavy piece of steel... It was difficult getting the job done with this little thing... I am glad it has shielding gas though, way better than flux core.

That thing is nice, both of them that is. I have a Crapsman 110v stick welder. Try welding with that!
Was the site down or was it just my damn IE again? Looks like I got an internal server error again just now.

Site host got struck by lightning according to Will.

WOW!
Hey man did you ever think about using aluminum polish on the exhaust ports? To make it extra smooth.

I love my 220V MIG