Beretta.net

Nah I can see where its coming in, its not going past the seal of the vent itself, its the metal to plastic mating surface thats letting it in. I got about 95% of it so far, but I think it was just a bit thin in one area. You can see where the water rolls right off the rolled lip of the opening and its not coming from the door itself.

jon, go to prjperformance, he sells custom plug wires for our cars well 3400's same thing. they are i believe a 10.3mm. they are 2 or 3 different plug wires combined. there 84 bucks but you have to email/call him before you order them. huge difference from the msd wires. my buddy just bought a set for his gtp.

I ran into severe electrical noise on my car when running non-resistor style spark plugs. I could see it riding on all of the electrical signals I was trending, and some of it was causing problems with my drivability. I switched over to resistor style, and the noise dropped like a rock and fixed me right up. Give that a shot and see what happens.

I'm running the ngk v-power plugs. Are those non resistor?

Whoa, Isaac is alive!

I don't know without looking it up. But you can also test them with a multimeter. To do so, remove one from your engine and then test using ohms. Put one lead one the center tip at each end. If you read no resistance and its a dead short then it is not a resistor plug. Most plugs are not. If read somewhere near 5k ohms then it is a resistor plug. The resistor is soley their for noise suppression. I use the most basic champion plugs ever made, ill get u there part number when I get home tonight.

i've been running the basic copper ac delco plugs for a few years in this car. R44LTSM6

i pull them every now and then to check and they still look good. outside of a cracked insulator on one plug i haven't had an issue.

NGK v-powers are a resistor style plug, 99% of all spark plugs are resistor type. I would advise heavily against going with a non-resistor style plug. The amount of interference you will get in your entire electrical system would be insane unless you ran shielding around every wire in the car, even then don't plan on using a radio. Electrical interference aside, your cars ignition system would have to be "re-tuned" as well because the resistor type plugs take a few milliseconds longer to fire than the non resistor. Doesn't seem like much, but when you take into effect that since our cars use a "waste spark" ignition set-up, (meaning that the circuit is completed through two spark plugs for each cyl firing), you would double the effect it would have on ignition timing. I'm quite sure you know what effect every cyl firing a bit too early could have on your nitrous set-up.

NocturnalGTU wrote: NGK v-powers are a resistor style plug, 99% of all spark plugs are resistor type. I would advise heavily against going with a non-resistor style plug. The amount of interference you will get in your entire electrical system would be insane unless you ran shielding around every wire in the car, even then don't plan on using a radio.

I think you understood this opposite of what I was recommending. I recommended he check his plugs to verify they were in fact resistor plugs. I was suggesting that if he accidentally used non-resistor plugs, they could be the cuase of his phantom knock being detected as electrical noise. At no time would i recommend anyone use non-resistor plugs. I know this becuase in my escapades trying to find a good plug to suite my needs, I accidentally got a set of non resistor plugs, and they screwed my system all up. Since this car surely has different plugs than recommended for a factory engine, I wondered if he too might have made the same mistake I made once. I was not suggesting he go out and buy non-resistor plugs.

I may still try to switch the plugs too just to see what happens but, yes they are resistor plugs. I also have a set of old accel wires I can try or I may be able to find a factory set somewhere.

Are you using a colder plug or are you using the factory recommendation as far as the temp of the plug? I know for nitrous setups colder plugs are a must or you could get a detonation knock while spraying or after because the combustion chamber temps are way hotter than they are supposed to be.

I'm using 1 or 2 steps colder, I cant remember 100% what it was since I did the cross reference so long ago, I've just been buying the same plugs.

As far as this KR... please note I get absolutely NOTHING at WOT or under nitrous use... this is like a 1800-2200 RPPM 40mph 4th gear lockup KR that I'm getting... I'm tempted to insulate my sensor to see if its picking up some noise from say the headers.

You should insulate the backside of the trans (between the engine and the diff/gear housing). Call it plan 3.5.01

5-speed swap: PLAN FTW!

heavywoody wrote:You should insulate the backside of the trans (between the engine and the diff/gear housing). Call it plan 3.5.01

I thought of that because a lot of W-body guys do that, but remember on a 3800 there is a second knock sensor right next to the trans... Ours is all the way out front.

I honestly think its an electrical interference... If it be the ICM the Coils or the wires and plugs I'm just not sure. The reason why I believe that is the fact that I've put 93 octane in it, octane booster, still had the KR, and I also pulled 15* of timing down low and had it at 21* advance (norm is 30-34 around there) and it still pulled the same amount of timing no matter what. So this is why I think it's noise related or electrical. I have been unplugging the knock sensor when I drive around town and only using it when I'm at the strip... because it does work to pick up WOT KR and this problem doesn't affect my 1/4 pulls... or at least it's not registering KR then, but I don't know if the issue thats causing it is hurting me at all.

It would be Plan D BTW...

5-speed swap - plan wheel spin FTL...

300hp FWD 5-speed applications just don't get along with traction... Just ask Rodney why he's going with a 4t65e