Beretta.net

When I get my heads I'll take a bunch of pics and post them, somehow, so you can see what he does.

woody90gtz wrote:I love my 220V MIG

Yeah I love Larry's 220V mig... I was so spoiled before... now this is all I got. BUT I think it should work fine with doing exhaust, and right now thats all I need to do.

asylum wrote:When I get my heads I'll take a bunch of pics and post them, somehow, so you can see what he does.

Probably wont be able to see much, or see what he changes... Its hard to tell. But I'm sure it will come out similar looking to mine, but may be shaped differently.

Not that I want to spend anymore money, but I'm looking at http://www.levelten.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; they have what they call a Level 10 PTS Bulletproof Rebuilding Kit PG... It's got my eye because the price is decent, and if it comes with input and 2nd race clutches for a 4t60e then I'm all over it. Right now I only know of the 3rd z-pak, but when looking at Raybestos site, they liste the Z-pak as covering 2-3rd... not sure why unless its a dual clutch pack for that setup. I've also noticed that Raybestos offers a Blue race clutch for the input... thats also got my eye since first takes a hell of a beating off the line... and I'm only assuming with 1st being avilable, they have to have something for 2nd.

Once I hear back from Level10 about whats in the kit, I may be ordering that to just do the trans right rather than just a run through....

Damn this is getting expensive.

Never forget Jon.

Cheap-Fast-Reliable

You can have any two, LOL!

I'm look at the price because its an affordable "KIT" that I can install, and when I say kit I mean the clutch packs together that are meant to work together and I do not have to pay someone to assemble it for me. Or get bitched at by someone when I'm asking what they use so I can save some cash by buying the parts seperately. I'm capable of installing stronger clutch packs, better sprags, better seals, and all that jazz, but NO ONE offers that in a big kit to the DIY market... And none of the approprate combinations are listed anywhere... This place supposedly does offer that as a package so it takes the guess work out of it for me..

And the way I look at it, $400 is almost twice as much as I invested in a kit the first time I built this trans.

Scratched the Cometic MLS head gaskets since as of today its a 3-5 week wait on them to get corrected. I'm going back to the trusty stock GM black ones. They treated me well before so it's better than waiting to the end of april to just hear they are not done yet.

Hopefully my trans kit will be shipping out this week too. I'll post up some pics of issues I found while I was in there.

Smart choice. Waiting for parts SUCKS! I'm itching to get mine back out on the road.

Well... some of the excess wear that I found on a few trans parts...

2nd clutch drum has wear where it interlocks with the reverse reaction shell. I'm not sure what motion causes this wear, but either way compared to my 175k mile trans this one that should only have 88k on it the amount is amost twice as much...

The spare one I did have has some wear elsewhere so I have one more trans I can take apart in hopes that I can use it's internals... after that its ebay time.



Comparison



Wearing the edge of the teeth away.



Comparison



The comparison one is worn on the center hub, so I do not want to use that because then I'll have to shim the bearings alot and I dont like to use a bunch of shims if not needed.

Is that #617?

Yes, the outer splines go into the 669 part, which is called the reverse reaction shell, and that has a tendency to explode in a stock trans, but mine has been replaced with a hardened version. Why?

My confusion on which motion causes this wear refers to wether or not this area has heavy pressure against it under WOT in first, second third gear, OR reverse. Just not sure which motion puts that stress there.

Wow.. That "2nd gear clutch housing" is pricey! around $200.

Yeah, but I can get them on e-bay from low mile tran's for about $50 tops... As noted I have one other trans to check as well... The deciding factor on that will most likely be the bearing condition. Since I did not buy new bearings if these are worn then I don't have anything to replace them with.

More pics of trans parts that I was not impressed with.

Burnt Input Clutches


Burt 1-2 Coast Band


Heat mark on drum, This should be fine though, no suface scaring, I just need to make sure its flat.


And all the scuffed shift valves next to their replacements.




New TCC valve with seal and the 1-2 anti-stick valve again.


All the valves I bought.







And one of those nice hood/paint pics just to remind me what is under the cover... lol Solid grill with new emblem also installed.




Engine is all back together and ready to go. Just waiting on the steels for the trans and two bands. I also bought another drum from e-bay to see if its better than the one I pulled from MAJ's old Z26 trans I had sitting in my yard... His was in better condition than the one I had from my original 95 trans so I'm going to see if one more out there could be better and then I'll use the best one.

Yes! The solid grille is eleventy billion times better.

woody90gtz wrote:Yes! The solid grille is eleventy billion times better.

Minus the crack in it on the bottom left corner... LOL I also never used it because I did not have a center emblem. Any input on that? leave it red? or black it out?

My front end seems to have the bumper a bit higher than it should be, or the header pannel is too low... either way when I screw the grill down it squishes it and there was already a crack there that just went through the paint... Kinda got pissed at that, touched up the crack line with paint so its harder to tell now. But I may end up buying a new grill and having my cousin respray that... and then swap it over for one not cracked.