1996 Mr.Pink

[Barry]

No icm? Eff that then. I have no prob using the 3500 crank sensor however because it's still in the block

[3X00-Modified]

Well my latest failure was my new fuse block that I installed... That will teach me to ever trust wal-mart again...

Well needless to say the fuse block they sell that can break off to two fused links will NOT support that of the alternator, even if they do sell a 100amp fuse.

Mine proceeded to melt the plastic the block was connected to and blow the 100amp fuse when I attempted to use the AC.

So yeah now I'm on the hunt for a good fuse/distribution block. I would like something that would accept a large gauge wire, 4 as an input, and allow two 4-8 gauge ouputs... One is for my power inverter in the car which is only 60 amps max IIRC, and the other would be for the alternator which is 100-110 amps, so I would like that to be 8 gauge min...

If anyone has any online stores that may have this let me know... there is NOTHING local to me as far as car audio shops.

[diedemus]

you would probably be better off running an ANL fuse off the battery then a distribution block after that to the inverter and rest of the electrical.

[DTMAce]

Try this.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=263-609

Shows not available, but I would search for it, or one like it.

BTW. Was that a Scosche holder you had? The one I have is, from Wally World. LOL

[3X00-Modified]

you would probably be better off running an ANL fuse off the battery then a distribution block after that to the inverter and rest of the electrical.

I don't want both items fused together though, I want them individually fused and both feeding off the main terminal. As far as ANL fuse, yes thats the route I need to go I'm starting to see.

I just found one with a dual ANL holder with 0-4 in and two 4-8 out.... so that may work for me.

And yes it was Scosche holder with two blade fuses, but just remember, the alternator puts out 105 amps and I'm sure those blade fuses don't have the best connection to reduce heat... that was proably why it failed, and it was fine till I added the load of the AC to the system.

[DTMAce]

Keep in mind, the alternator may put out 105 AMPs at full load. (What its capable of) That doesn't necessarily mean you are using 105 amps all the time. Only the load you put on it will actually count. Still, you want the holder to be able to sustain that large of a load IF it is drawn. And even 50 AMPs can be a load at times if the metal isn't heavy enough. I know my amp has a 30 amp fuse, the block has a 50, and I doubt even at max volume I draw 20 on the whole leg. And my block is only feeding the amp.

Anyways, get er dun.

[3X00-Modified]

Yes I know its 105 MAX, I'm not new to electronics either and that's my point... The fuse holder was working fine till I pulled near 100amps on the system... I'm assuming that because the 100amp marked fuse I was using blew as well as the block melting some. So I'm not sure what amperage caused that but there was definitely a poor connection somewhere in there to generate heat like that which is also what possibly induced the larger than necessary current. I just don't think those blade fuse setups are sufficient to push 100amps through them just due to the way they connect, its too small of a point which generates a lot of heat.

Well I just grabbed this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/XScorpion-Dual-Mini ... 5195efcacf

Lets see if I can melt this thing... lol

Got an 80amp and 100amp fuse... I can probably drop the inverter line to a 60amp though, but that also has its own internal fuses. I just want the second fuse there so I can make that wire in the car dead if I ever disconnect the unit, before it was directly connected so it was always live.

[woody90gtz]

Why not a regular distribution block with fusible link wire rather than actual fuses? That way you get the least resistance possible while still being protected.

[3X00-Modified]

Because I don't like fusible link wire... Thats what blew in the beginning and resulted in me replacing the stock wiring with a straight 8 gauge run. Fused blocks are way easier to change, but you just need to get the right block for the application, which I obviously did not do the first time.

There is no issue with the concept of what I want to do, or the application of it, I just did it improperly the first time and did not buy tough enough hardware.

Also here is a direct quote from someone selling a spool of 8 gauge fusible link wire... which is friken expensive btw.

A fusible link is not intended to be used in place of a fuse but only where a fuse cannot be economically employed.

Others say it should be used in conjunction with a fuse.

[woody90gtz]

That is bullshit. A fusible link is the best way to do it. You get less voltage drop and heat with a soldered fusible link than any kind of blade fuse. And when the proper gauge & length is used, you will never get a blown one...it will only burn up if there is a direct short (or close to it). That's why there are always fusible links on starters, etc. because they can take the voltage spikes without frying, but still offer protection for a serious overload.

[3X00-Modified]

Well everything I read about fusible links say they are not a fuse substitute, they should be use in conjunction with a fuse, or only when you can't use a fuse period.

And I agree to the blade fuse comment but that's the point I used a blade fuse where I shouldn't have which created way too much resistance. I'm replacing that with a more appropriate fuse choice.

Also the simple comment of

NOTES about Fusible Links Only a serious short will cause a Fusible Link to burn–it disconnects a circuit from power just before the rest of the wiring in a circuit would be damaged. Momentary overloads will not burn out a Fusible Link–such as arcing a wrench between ground and an exposed terminal.

leads me to believe the statement of not a fuse replacement is for the fact that they are not reliable in an aspect of they will blow when x amperage is exceeded... they appear to be simiply WIRE protectors... it takes the extreme of a short to blow them which means your electronic device on the other end could be far from destroyed by the time the link goes.

Who the hell knows I may also have a fluky alternator that is over loading the wire... hence the reason why my first link blew to begin with... I'm having the alternator tested before I install this block just to be sure it is ok too.

Examples of fusible link applications are noted as

Examples of circuits where the Fusible Link wire will be the most reliable short-circuit protection are; *the main power wire to the dash area, *the alternator-to-battery “charging wire,” *power-up wire to electric radiator fans, and other systems where the amount of current flow is a large amount for long periods of time.

which is another reason why I think they are simply for wire harness protection or direct extreme short protection.

I still need the block for my power inverter since I would like to have that protected, and if I do overpower this again with the alternator due to the heavy current load then I may have to switch back to the fuse link, but I've seen many applications where the alternator hot lead is simply fuesed and they don't have any problems with it.

[3X00-Modified]

Well the KR is back and as strong as ever... I have NO FUCKING CLUE where its coming from...

I've swapped out the whole ignition system and I just recently did the ECM to make sure that was ok... Its still there.

My next thing would be to find a way to ground a knock sensor and plug it in, but NOT have it on the block so I can see if there is electrical interference, or if it is infact picking up god who knows what noise and thinks its knock, I'm guessing that since the KR is completely gone when I unplug it, that could be due to the circuit not being complete so it wont get any interference from somewhere OR it is as noted hearing something from my cam or headers that it shouldn't be classifying as knock. I've read of some on HPTuners de-sensitizing their sensor using a resistor so if I can find out how they are doing that I may try that.

I'm also going to work on smoothing out my VE table since a choppy one will cause some KR and mine is not very smooth due to how my car runs and what I can log during a VE tune... I have most of the base line there I just need to smooth off transitions that may not have been picked up in the log.

[DTMAce]

Try running shielded wire for your K sensor feed. The outer mesh covering can then be grounded at both ends and maybe it would help keep the K sensor lead from picking up noise in the wire from god knows where as it travels the harness? If all else fails that is. lol

[3X00-Modified]

Yeah thats my last resort... I don't feel like tracing that wire through my harness right now... Plus I would have to proove that it is electrical before I dig that far.

[1988GTU]

Pull the KS and leave it plugged in. Shake the KS in your hand but do not tap on it or tap it on something. Test the continuity of that wire too. See if there are any weak points.

Also, make sure the starter is not causing the KR. Loose a/c bracket? Defective tensioner pulley?