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Well the decal is $80 with shipping.

I may order one anyway, but you don't have anything else to do...... do ya??

ROFL!!

asylum wrote:Well the decal is $80 with shipping.

I may order one anyway, but you don't have anything else to do...... do ya??

ROFL!!

Other than OT at work, buying a house, refinishing wheels and trying to get my dad's POS Buick resto done I've got plenty of time! haha

Like I told you, I'll try, but I'm not promising anything.

Woody, do what you can.

I really appreciate the effort!

Get that

Ha Ha HA!!

I guess I should update this for the rest of the project goes...

I just finished replacing all the seals in the input and 3rd drum, reinstalled all the clutches and did a test fit and shimmed the input drive, so the trans is going back together very well. I was not planning on doing all the lip seals but since I had it all out I said WTF might as well since I'm in here, its a good thing I did, because I found some metal chips in the 4th apply piston, and those might have been from when I fragged the diff in 08, because I know I didn't take all that apart to clean it... And I should have. I'm almost positive that the burn on my Low band is from something that was stuck in the trans.

If I didn't say so before, the engine is all together waiting for the trans. Hopefully I protected the head bolts well this time... I coated all of the short ones with BBQ paint, and I will be cleaning off the excess assy lube and then spraying the end of the bolt with paint again... All of the nuts and washers were painted, and I also put a layer of RTV on the bottom of the washer to seal to the head better.

As far as the trans goes I just need to finish up with the channel plate inspection and drop that in, then get the spacer plate and valve body on, and then finish off the rest of the external pistons for the bands, rebuild the pump, and get the side cover and bottom cover on and it should be good to go. Before everything goes back in I need to drill 2 holes in the firewall to run some 8ga wire in there for my new power inverter... It doesn't hook up to the cigarette lighter anymore since its much larger than my previous ones, hopefully this time it lasts longer.

As well as that I need to pull either both seats or one front seat from my red car since those are still in good shape, most likely the passenger one, and swap it with my drivers seat cover since thats badly torn in the pink car... The rear seat will have to wait since no one seems to have either a gray GT fold down, or a Gray Base seat that they are willing to ship.

Its coming along, slow since we just had our season opener at Thompson this weekend so I was rather busy getting that car ready and attending the weekend event. But hopefully this wednesday I should get a chance to hit my car hard and maybe get the whole driveline done, so now I can work on prepping the bay and get this crap in and running!

Oh I also need to weld the v-band clamps onto my headers and pipes before I get the engine in.

getting there.
what power inverter did you go with. ive been looking for something i can make permanent instead of the cig lighter ones.

Its one Amy's father got me for x-mas, I can't remember the exact wattage right now.

I just found the inverter I bought while cleaning up the rental house this weekend. Woohoo! Just need to get my wheels done and datalog that bitch with the wideband hack chip.

OK... Big list here... and hopefully a good update for those who want to know what’s fully done to my trans.
Parts list:

Valves: Purchased from http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com
84754-22k Torque converter clutch apply valve kit (standard size) 91-96
84754-23K Anti-stick 1-2 shift valve
84754-25K hi-ratio Reverse & modulated line boost kit
84754-36k 2-3 Shift Valve 94-97
84754-37k 3-2 Downshift valve 91-up
84754-38k 3-4 Shift valve 91-up
84754-39k 4-3 Downshift valve 91-up

Hard Parts: Purchased from http://www.bulkpart.com
A84570B 4th Clutch hub & Shaft (No bearing at clutch hub end/Sleeve race at splined end) 96-99
A84624 Shell, Reverse Reaction, Black Hardened

Clutches: Purchased from http://www.level10.com (I recommend http://www.wittrans.com for others, MUCH cheaper)
84119EAS1 (wittrans number) Friction Module Stage 1 95-up (Raybestos Part #RCPS-32)

Steels: Can be purchased from http://www.wittrans.com (I got mine from level10 after complaining)
84139EA Steel Module, L94-UP

Kits: Purchased from http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com
37936 4t60e Transmission Shift Kit, 1991-1999 (Shift Improver/correction kit, NOT PERFORMANCE)

Rebuild kit: Mine came with level10 Kit, I recommend this for others http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com Or second FULL kit from http://www.northernautoparts.com
37023 Transmission soft Overhaul kit 91-99 (No bonded Pistons, No steels, No fibers) Soft kit, Gaskets, o-rings, sealing rings.
84008EA TranStar Deluxe Rebuild kit (includes Pistons, steels, fibers, front band, and filter)

Bands: Can be purchased at http://www.Bulkpart.com
A84026A 1st & 2nd (Center Band) 1-2 Coast 91-up
B84022E FWD (Rear band) 91-up
B84024A Reverse (Front Band) 91-up

Bushing Kit: Can be purchased at http://www.Bulkpart.com
84030E Bushing Kit 91-up

Thrust washer kit and Misc items: Purchased from http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com
37670A 4t60e Thrust Washer kit 93-up
84532-01k Differential Lube Tube Retainer
84881 Solid pump slide pivot Pin (pack of 5)
4662 Transmission Pump vane (9 needed)
37954 3rd Clutch Bonded Rubber Piston 91-99 (If needed)
37953 2nd clutch Bonded Rubber Piston 91-99 (I would suggest replacing during rebuild)
37888 4t60e Dual red strip vacuum Modulator 83-99 (Universal Adjustable type)

Sprags: MUST REPLACE STOCK on 95-older http://www.bulkpart.com
A44654 1991-1995 1-2 Roller (springs rub inner race and burn out causing failure.)
A84652A 1-2 Roller 1996-up (Factory one typically lasts just fine.)

Now everything that has been done to my trans has been done in an odd fashion…

I first purchased a Deluxe rebuild kit from Northern Auto which included all the bonded pistons for the apply clutches, two bands, and more, Part Number #84008EA… The piston are not always needed since they don’t wear out that often and most of the apply pistons have lip seals which come in the soft kit. Also when I purchased this full kit it contained the full bushing kit so I did not have to purchase this separate, I listed all the items separate above because if you buy a full kit you waste money on a set of clutches you won’t use. I didn’t do the math, but if you get a full kit that comes with steels and bushings pistons, and bands (if noted) then you may save some money over buying all individual. I only recently did the Stage 1 kit from Level 10 where I'm replacing all the clutches and steels, and also putting in all new seals since I'm in there, I'm leaving the bushings alone since they look just fine.

I hope to get some pics up later.

Some updated photos of my new head studs... coated in black BBQ paint and antiseize on the base threads! No moly lube down there!





Hopefully the combination of this and being stored in the garage and not outside eliminates the rust issue I had with the original set of head bolts.

Man that is a lot of work. Can't wait to see this thing in person. :p

The trans info needs a sticky somehow. Those studs are looking good, hope that does it. When will you start putting the engine back together?
I have the same tool set. It's packed full of other tools that I would need at the JY and for small repairs. As you know that's all I do(lol).

Everything is all back together, I finished the trans tonight and the motor has been done for a little while... I just haven't updated much. I hope to MAYBE be dropping the driveline in this weekend. But we'll see.

That's my car tool set lol

Don't forget your A/C bearing!