Beretta.net

Left must be 4 gauge including the shield... LOL

I measured the wire and the one on the right comes up at like .220 or so which makes it more like 3-2GA the other one comes up at .160 which is 6-5 gauge... SO really the smaller wire is still under 4 gauge and the newer wire is actually LARGER than 4... quite odd.

I can only imagine what the 8GA wire I was using measures up at its the same brand as the wire on the left... All I know is it fit a 10ga yellow lug to go to the battery so that right there shows its NOT 8ga wire. Real 8GA is also only made to handle around 73amps it says... Our alternators put out 106 at full load. Makes you wonder how the stock wire EVER survives.

I know mine has always been problematic. I can't remember a time when my Alternator couldn't quite keep up at idle, even when it was on the first one. I often set it in neutral at stops, just to keep the volts up, otherwise it drops to run off the battery (very obviously). Always been like that, even the dealer couldn't find a problem with it..

When its cold, no issue, but when its hot, yeah, it sucks bad. Hell last year to Chicago it barely kept above battery peak, let alone hit the middle mark when it was hot. I have yet to install my Alt cooler, hope to have time next week before fest... I have SO much to do it isn't even funny this year...... And I shouldn't even be on here typing, need to get back to it, so good luck man!

Ok got my stinger 4GA lugs in the mail today and GUESS WHAT? The wire fit the diameter of the lug PERFECTLY... so Stinger and this wire company AGREE on what they think 4GA wire is... where as the Pyramid wire I would have had to strip it back twice as far and fold it over otherwise the criped end would have to be smashed flat to hold onto the wire.

I soldered that end all together to make sure its got a good connection, ran the wire and hooked it all up. Finally this alternator business may be done with.

I also did my oil change last night since my injectors didn't come and will probably show up today. Its nice when you get under the car and its as dry as can be... This is my second year now on all factory gaskets installed with no silicone on them at all. I put one thin coat of it on the timing cover gasket around the coolant ports and thats it. None on the oil pan, none on the valve covers and everything is staying tight and sealed!

Coming down to the last minute before bfest.I just swiched to that same filter on the wifes sentra.How do you like them, must be cheaper then 14 bucks for a K&N??
Everything looks good

I've been using purolator since I built this engine. They are a very good filter for the money. Many tests have proven that too.

I noticed the same thing with my Beretta when I was under it. Nice and clean!

If only I could say the same for the Camaro...that car needs a full teardown and cleanup/detail when I do paint & body. I should be getting a 1-pc rear main Vortec rod-knock long block from my bro-in-law this week or next! You know what that means: 383 with roller cam and AFR heads! Maybe even EFI... That'll be about 500hp.

Mines a bit dirty but all the new stuff is still dry too! Not like my old oil pan that I had to wipe up every time before doing anything, lol!

Looks great, Jon!

At Bfest I'm gonna have to check out all the us-body hoods and see how they sit again, since everyone mentions the fitment issues. I'm sick of dealing with rust, and if I don't have any luck with a new hood soon I may look into it and just deal with it sitting a little high or whatever.

woody90gtz wrote:I noticed the same thing with my Beretta when I was under it. Nice and clean!

If only I could say the same for the Camaro...that car needs a full teardown and cleanup/detail when I do paint & body. I should be getting a 1-pc rear main Vortec rod-knock long block from my bro-in-law this week or next! You know what that means: 383 with roller cam and AFR heads! Maybe even EFI... That'll be about 500hp.

More HP for you to fail down the dragstrip with the 6 speed... LOL when you gonna get a built auto for that car and put down some REAL times.

snowblindburd wrote:Mines a bit dirty but all the new stuff is still dry too! Not like my old oil pan that I had to wipe up every time before doing anything, lol!

Looks great, Jon!

At Bfest I'm gonna have to check out all the us-body hoods and see how they sit again, since everyone mentions the fitment issues. I'm sick of dealing with rust, and if I don't have any luck with a new hood soon I may look into it and just deal with it sitting a little high or whatever.

Its not that much higher... I wonder if others complain about the body line and such... I had my cousin fit the hood so its straight, but just about 1/8" high... Not really noticeable though since the sides are smooth and painted.

Cool. Seemed like a bigger issue in the past I guess. I just have this negative vibe from people who have put it on, but maybe they were just being pickier at the time lol! Was it wavy at all when you got it, or pretty smooth and ready to prep for paint?

I'd like to get the stock replacement, but for that much money It's probably more worth it just to go with the cowl.

Mine was cracked in multiple places and missing the corners... I bought a used hood, it was far from ready for paint... LOL

I have no idea if the new ones come in the same condition, its quite possible. hahaha

The hood I got

http://www.beretta.net/forum/viewtopic. ... 840#p57840

Okay I remember hearing about cracks and the corners. I'll have to look more into their condition when "new."

The hood looks really good now, nice job.

I really like cowl hoods on a beretta.But i just found a nice stock replacement one.
I would rather buy pistons or something for performances then looks right now.
Plus the whole sleeper look appeals too me.LOL

Jon doesn't care about sleeper looks. That's why his car is still PINK.