Beretta.net

3X00-Modified wrote:

Beretta_gal wrote:My dad actually took the EGR out,cleaned it and put the new gasket on...he was pushung it up and down,and said it was good......

Not quite 100% testing an electromagnetic plunger... LOL

But honestly I don't think thats it since the EGR code light wont go off unless the car is shut off where as yours is turning off as soon as you start moving again.

Nah Jon, it's not that fancy on the 2.2...

Damn, a 95 2.2 has a VAC egr... I didn't realize that I figured it was the same as the 3.1 egr since they changed from Vac to digital.

Here's another update to the engine light comming on......I took it in yesterday to be scanned and he said it showed my IAC was plugged/dirty from all the starting problem I had before it may have just got carboned up.............so I came home last night,took the IAC out cleaned it,(it was black and gunky),also took the intake apart cleaned that and a new gasket,put it all back together,and needless to say The FN engine light is still comming on...UGH....so I called the mechanic back,and if my memory serves me correctly I remember him saying something yesterday about my ECM....but didn't think nothing of it as I just put one in in March (used one of corse,a new one is like $400).....anyway I told him the engine light is still comming on when my fan kicks on,and then the engine light goes off as soon as the fan goes off????? I notice the fan kicks on when the guage is only at the mark before half....that seems too soon if you ask me. He said that the fan should not kick on until the guage gets atleast to half or over and it's sitting still,so leads him to believe it something with my ECM. NOTE: this engine light problem only started happening when I put the new ECM in a month ago.....the place I got the ECM from has a 30 day policy,and since it's April 14th i'm over by 4 days....But after talking to the JY I got the ECM from,he said he won't penilize me by 4 days and to bring it and the reciept in and they will give me another ECM.................so NOW that's what I gotta do,get the other out and get another put in. Atleast it won't cost me anything more than it already has and it's worth a try...right?!?!.....I swear if it isn't one thimg it's another,and why all the problems all of a sudden!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll keep posted

Makes some sense I suppose.... Good luck!

REMEMBER the Iac is electronic... If cleaning it doesn't work then I would suggest finding one to swap it out with and test a new or known working used one.

Being that the ECM trade is free, thats also worth a shot

Obviously i'm no mechanic (which is why i've been taking it to one) but does this make sence to anyone else? I mean yesterday when the mechanic scanned it it pulled up IAC,he said IAC is functioning properly,it just may need to been cleaned.....then after doing that the engine light still comes on but only when my fan kicks on....I just don't understand how he can go from "a dirty IAC to needing an ECM"

Just a thought here, but look into your CTS voltages. Sounds more to me like the ECM is getting a weak or high voltage from that sensor when the fan kicks on.

I had the temp sensor replaced as well in Febuary...but whose to say it's not faulty???/ I got the ECM out of her tonight,and will be going to exchange it first thing in the morning...If replacing the ECM still is causing the engine light to come on,I will look into changing the Temp sensor again and see if that helps. If not....I don't know anymore!!! I am getting tired of spending $60 bucks a wack to keep getting it scanned and as mentioned on the first page of this thread,you will see everything that has been done since Febuary 2011.....I'll keep ya's posted and I am Thankfull for all of your in-puts

He is going from IAC to ECM because after cleaning a component controlled by the ECM its still malfunctioning then you need to look at the component that controls it... Unfortunately he has not told you to replace the ICM before saying it could be the ECM since it can go bad itself...

Also this may only come on when the fan kicks in because when the fan is on it puts a bit more load on the alternator which requires more IAC steps to keep your idle correct and if it cant get that movement or achieve the proper RPM it will throw a code for IAC operation.

told you i'm no mechanic...lol It's just frusturating the heck out of me because I hate things being wron with my car. I got a different ECM today. My husband will put it in when he gets home from work and then I'll start it up and see if the engine light comes on again.