Beretta.net

That looks amazing!

woody90gtz wrote:What's the boot? It looks good and I need one.

It's a universal one I bought from Wheelskins.com. I had to trim it to fit in the 91+ console since the opening is slightly smaller than on the older ones - I hated it to do it since there was nothing wrong with it beforehand, but didn't want any binding issues or additional slack above the shift plate.

snowblindburd wrote:That looks amazing!

Thank you!

Looks win. I believe you've fully convinced me to cut up my wheel skins boot now as well. I hate to do it too, the leather is supreme quality... better than most jackets, oh well.

We'll have to get some cruisin in this weekend. 3 day weekend ftw. 4 Beretta mini-minifest?

Kurt, can you take some pics when you modify your wheelskins boot? I knew you weren't using it because of the fit...but Dustin's modified one looks good enough to go with.

Hmm a 5 speed swap is becoming even more tempting.. Especially because there is hope to have some of my rust fixed this summer, lol!

Gosh I can't wait for Berettafest to finally see this car in person.

Looks good.. one thing you should add to that... cut the shifter down, i just cut mine down and i like it way better.

ive been wondering if the shifter and cables from a newer cavalier would fit up to the getrag they have like a ball on the bottom of the shifter and the cable connect into the bottom of it someway that it shifts way smoother then these sloppy things, but i do like how mine feels after cutting it down..

Where did you find the white face cover for the cluster ?

If you get the rodney dickman kit, the shifter will be on par with that newer one. My Alero has the same shifter as a newer cavalier.

I wasn't a very big fan of that newer style shifter. The pivot ball on the newer style has a ton of inherent play in it. Even after buying a putting the B&M short throw kit in that car - the shifter was still a cluncky piece of crap.

Plus if all you're doing is cutting the top down on the shift arm, you're just putting less leverage on the shifter so it will seem harder to shift.

the shifting is not hard to push its the play in it that drives me nuts lol. after cutting the shifter arm down it feels nicer to shift.

Is it possible the cables on a newer cavy will fit our trans and use that shifter ? or this kit you speak of is the only option ? where do i find one

The RD kit will get rid of the play. It replaces all the rubber crap with brass.

beretta wrote: Is it possible the cables on a newer cavy will fit our trans and use that shifter ? or this kit you speak of is the only option ? where do i find one

Those cables attach nothing like the stock ones at the shifter end... The trans side could be made to work though.

The Rodney Dickman shifter and transmission select arm rebuild kits are a must to remove the sloppiness.
http://www.rodneydickman.com/

Here are some vids from when I rebuilt the shifter assembly in my GTU (and now in the '91):
http://www.berettaspeed.com/dustin/88gt ... before.avi
http://www.berettaspeed.com/dustin/88gt ... _after.avi

Between those things and using a threaded shift arm from an early 90's Grand Am I'm satisfied for now - if I shorten the shift arm any I'm going to have to mess with and trim my shift boot again and I'm done going down that road for awhile.

A little teaser for everyone...I just can't keep from taking it apart....

Oh, and I recently overhauled the exhaust a little. No more sag before the rear axle! Pictures to come on that...any guesses on what project inspired the above picture?

Some sort of brake upgrade?

Wooh for non-saggy exhaust! Mine tucks nice and tight for now too!

just looking at the jack stands im guessing something to do with removing the subframe? btw on the ps lower engine mount that everyone says you need to redrill. well i never redrilled mine. i know the chiltons show 2 dif holes one for auto and one for stick shift but mine lined right up. been that way for 60k+ and no problems.