Beretta.net

Pull the motor and support the trams with a jack. Then unbolt it and lift it out with your hands. Haha use the hoist tho, it's just easier.


FYI its easier to pull a auto out the top than a getrag, the getrag hides under the frame rail while the auto is narrower and can be lifted straight up assuming the master cylinder is unbolted. The 5-speed needs to be angled pretty hard.

Well I dropped the 5-speed with a trans jack first then removed the motor, similar to doing the auto and if you angle the engine down the trans clears the frame rail very easily to disengage the trans from the clutch.

Few concerns about the current install though... For instance, these are the fuel lines...




WAY too close to the exhaust for my comfort... I am going to see if I can get my hands on a new set of 3100 lines from a 94+ car to fix this right.

Also the heater core lines are very badly routed and pretty much LAY right on the header cross over pipe... I'm going to also find 94+ beretta parts, I have the front rail pipe that doesn't have the TB heater lines so I'll use that and try to find a hose that will route around the headers.


Just some other pics.








I need to re-wrap the front header




Pulled the crank so I could get it to work to have it modified since that guy is on vacation next week.




Bearings look good Robert, but I would not object to you wanting to replace them... Some show some signs of wear where some others are still perfect so thats up to you, I can order them from RA IIRC.


Crank out.

And if you ask me, this looks like the clutch is a bit burnt... If I were to see this in the race car I would suggest replacement, but I don't know how these spec clutches are supposed to hold up but it just looks wrong to me.

Flywheel








Pressure plate












Disc








Let me know what you want to do with this, Obviously you only have to supply the parts and cost of surfacing the flywheel since it's already out and has to go back in.

woody90gtz wrote:Drop it out the bottom, it's easier. Then separate the trans out of the car. There's not too much room to disengage the input shaft with it in the bay.

^ I prefer this method too as long as you have what you need to get the front end high enough off the ground. When going at it and removing it from the top, always make sure to remove the hood so you don't risk damaging it when pulling the engine.

The flywheel looks normal according to what they told me about a Kevlar clutch. The pressure plate/puck side doesn't look so good though.

Spec said mine looked normal, other than the glazing on the disc (from when it was slipping at the track).



I've never seen a jackshaft that doesn't bolt to the block.

woody90gtz wrote:I've never seen a jackshaft that doesn't bolt to the block.

It does bolt to the block, it was easier for me to unbolt the bracket from the jackshaft than to remove that bracket, since the 89 rear motor mount sits over that bracket.

You can see the bracket in the pick of the underside of the block, bottom center of the photo.

3X00-Modified wrote:

woody90gtz wrote:I've never seen a jackshaft that doesn't bolt to the block.

It does bolt to the block, it was easier for me to unbolt the bracket from the jackshaft than to remove that bracket, since the 89 rear motor mount sits over that bracket.

Ok. That makes more sense. I thought it look hella-flimsy like that. Mine bolts to the black and just slides in the trans.

woody90gtz wrote:

3X00-Modified wrote:

woody90gtz wrote:I've never seen a jackshaft that doesn't bolt to the block.

It does bolt to the block, it was easier for me to unbolt the bracket from the jackshaft than to remove that bracket, since the 89 rear motor mount sits over that bracket.

Ok. That makes more sense. I thought it look hella-flimsy like that. Mine bolts to the black and just slides in the trans.

I didn't drain the trans so I left the axles and jackshaft in place... no need to waste his 90w when it doesn't need to be taken apart.

3X00-Modified wrote:I didn't drain the trans so I left the axles and jackshaft in place... no need to waste his 90w when it doesn't need to be taken apart.

If there's 90w in there it would have huge problems! haha

Syncromesh is similar to 5w30 in viscosity.

Well yeah thats what I meant... No need to waste his Syncromesh... I did pop the axle to see if it was going to leak and some came out, and yeah I guess you could say its around 5w30 weight, but I would say what was in there was slightly heavier than that.

Robert was it filled with Syncromesh? And if not do you want me to change it out?

Oh forgot the best pick... Its like a Halloween horror story... I gutted it and dragged its end trails away leaving a pool of it's blood...



I hate antifreeze...

Thursday is clean up day and then organize everything and begin engine tear down and cleaning. Tonight is a Five Course Fall Craft-Brewed Beer Dinner at Georges in RI...

I have yet to figure out a way to open one up and not spill coolant... haha

woody90gtz wrote:I have yet to figure out a way to open one up and not spill coolant... haha

ONLY way I've found out how is to get the radiator drain tube lined up with the holes in the subframe (near impossible due to the rubber insulators, its almost always to far back) and put a 3/8 rubber hose on that outlet, then about 85% of the the antifreeze drains directly out of there... Takes friken forever though... then I drain the block while it's in the car. I do pretty well with the pink car but this one wouldn't even drain out that hole, it was coming out of the screw that you loosen so it was just going everywhere.

Yes i always use sycromesh.
I have more so you can drain it.
yeah i have the gm flywheel still so i can get that redone.
And pick up a new clutch keep that as a backup.
When i broke that cable on the hill i think i messed it up then.I wanted a clutchmaster anyways.lol
Yeah change any bearing you question.
Was that everything?

Yeah I think you got it...

Order up a clutch since I have no idea what you want just ship it to me.

No need in draining your trans fluid it was still very clean, however if you do have a new fill plug for it that's not closing properly.

I'll order the bearings since I know what to get, and I also have the other water and fuel lines getting pulled by Brett this week hopefully.

As far as the flywheel I can leave this alone since that is said to be normal, its just some heat markings, there is not gauling like there is on the spec pressure plate.

Want DSS axles too? haha