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Hey mike, i would stray away from the F-body brakes and stick to the N-body brakes. I dont have abs and still rockin the stocker rear drums and i can stop very fast. And i have lots of stupid old people around here that dont know how to drive.

In all honesty, yes the F-bods will stop ya in a split second, but trust me, the N-s are where its at. The F- brakes are so huge and heavy, a stock quad will slow way the hell down from them. I noticed a considerable amount of low end power loss having the N- brakes on the front of my car and i have all those engine and trans mods. Dont go big, keep it simple.

In all actuality, if you start with the neon brakes first, im willing to bet that you will have much better stopping just in that and may not need the N-brakes. Im still waiting to get my rear discs installed to see what difference it makes. But im bettin that with the rear disc and stocks up front, these cars would stop 100% better!

Plus the F- brakes make your timing chain rattle and water pump run slower LMAO

Other thing to look at, you cant use the stocker GTZ rims with the N-brakes less you want to spend bukoo bucks having a machine shop make customs inserts on the spindles for you. Start with the rear disc first

I did a little measuring and there is plenty of room to drill holes for the correct bolt pattern and press in new wheel studs on the n body bearings. It's all about making sure they are centered. If there was demand, I could easily make a jig for my bridgeport and pound these out.

Lots of people don't care really, because they get aftermarket rims anyway. I prefer the GTZ rims, even if they are heavy bitches.

Really, you think the GTZ rims are heavy? I've swapped tires so many times on this car I lost count. And tbh , I actually marveled at how LIGHT they are compared to a LOT of late model cars with 16's on them.

So, looks like Tensioner Pulley will be on the to do list. It's looking a tad off centered and ate two belts prior to me finally figuring out the tensioner was mis-positioning the belt and I had to do a few tricks, but once I got the new Gates belt JUST right after a few quick starts and adjustments, all is well.

What a pita, this car.... It's a good thing I love it so....

And after royally pissing you off, it's always sure to remind you WHY you love it with just a few quick blasts through the gears....

Now, new question. I'm a bit puzzled by this next bit....

My ABS light came on today, but the alternator is fine. Seriously, it and the serpentine belt are both in PERFECT working order. Charge is right where it should be , yada,yada.

It did the "fast blink" at me today. Didn't just pop on like it has before when the alt was acting weak.

Now, I've been through the ABS system on here and it APPEARS fine. Here's the quirk. I've had this happen once or twice before with this car and here's what I've been doing EVERY SINGLE time.

Stop the car.

Leave car running.

Set E-brake.

Do whatever I'm doing (usually inspecting some component I just fixed/repaired/replaced) , which today was checking serpentine belt alignment real quick.

Get back in car. Release E-brake and go.

Each and every time the ABS light has flashed quickly at me, I've JUST gotten going down the road from being parked while idling with the E-brake set.

So , it seems the E-brake and ABS are conflicting somehow. HOW is the question.

I'm wondering if maybe my E-brake isn't releasing 100% and causing ever so slight drag and confusing the ABS?

Ideas?

Well, as I understand the ABS system, it does a short power check of the sensors after you start the vehicle then move it (you can actually hear a click). Why its doing that after setting the parking brake I have no idea. Mine does it due to the low power issues I'm currently dealing with thanks to the heat increase the past few weeks. Doesn't happen ever time, but the light stays on. Sometimes even the brake light is on, even though fluid levels are fine and such. I redid the brakes last summer, and I have not had any stopping problems, so who knows.

I suppose you could go through and reseat the connectors for each sensor, though the ones in the rear are a pain in the ass, as the connector is inside the axle if I remember correctly.

Check your wiring for any bad spots. Weren't there issues with the rear wiring getting rubbed somplace? I remember reading about it, but not sure where I read it.

Hmmmmmmmmmmm. Probably the water pump. Damn GTZ rims weigh 22 pounds without rubber. Compaired to aftermarket stuff, that's heavy. I want magnesium rims.

Chad you have a feasible idea but one problem.... Stock GTZ rims have a 54mm hub bore, and the N-hubs are like 60 or so mm. You would have to bore the back of the GTZ wheels to make them work, then do it to all four just so you can rotate the tires when the time comes. But in doing that, now you wont be able to use the stock center caps unless you have new custom ones made. If you stick an N-hub in the back of a GTZ wheel with no studs on it, you will see how much bigger the hug bore is. Its easier, and cheaper, to just change the rims out with universal bolt wheels when doing the N-brakes. Been there, done that, i wanted to put my GTZ rims back on, but wasnt gonna spend my life fortune trying to make it work.

Chad91GTZ wrote: I want magnesium wheels.

FTMFW.

90GTZHO wrote:Chad you have a feasible idea but one problem.... Stock GTZ rims have a 54mm hub bore, and the N-hubs are like 60 or so mm. You would have to bore the back of the GTZ wheels to make them work, then do it to all four just so you can rotate the tires when the time comes. But in doing that, now you wont be able to use the stock center caps unless you have new custom ones made. If you stick an N-hub in the back of a GTZ wheel with no studs on it, you will see how much bigger the hug bore is. Its easier, and cheaper, to just change the rims out with universal bolt wheels when doing the N-brakes. Been there, done that, i wanted to put my GTZ rims back on, but wasnt gonna spend my life fortune trying to make it work.

57.1mm VS 70.3mm

Thanks Cliff, i thought after looking at a couple pics it looked like they were a bigger hub bore. Im actually curious if you can do that and leave just enough outter lip on a GTZ to make it work....

Yeah, I'll have to check the rear ABS connectors again. My way of thinking is that maybe the rear brakes are dragging a bit upon releasing the E-brake cables. They may need adjustment. Thereby causing an erroneous communication error via the ABS sensors to the ABS unit and kicking the light.

"ABS system, it does a short power check of the sensors after you start the vehicle then move it (you can actually hear a click)"

Hmmmm...... maybe this is the clicking noise im hearing in my Z and thinking it was something internal in the trans or a cv shaft. when i come to a stop and take off i hear a click, from neutral to reverse/drive i can hear something click. the click is nothing like any cv shaft i have ever had go on me before.

You should only hear the ABS unit cycle ONE time per start. The way it should work is:

Foot on the brake, start car, remove foot from brake pedal, hear clicking from ABS unit. This is it's normal diagnostic duty cycle. Or if you don't put your foot on the brake when you start your car, you'll hear it within 2-5 seconds of starting the car.

That is the ONLY time you should hear your ABS unit cycle until the next time you have to start it and it will do it all over again. If you hear it when rolling to a stop sign or while running ,that's not a good sign. So, I seriously doubt it's your ABS unit you hear. More likely a wheel bearing, cv joint or similar in your case.

SuzukiGhostRider wrote:You should only hear the ABS unit cycle ONE time per start. The way it should work is:

Foot on the brake, start car, remove foot from brake pedal, hear clicking from ABS unit. This is it's normal diagnostic duty cycle. Or if you don't put your foot on the brake when you start your car, you'll hear it within 2-5 seconds of starting the car.

That is the ONLY time you should hear your ABS unit cycle until the next time you have to start it and it will do it all over again. If you hear it when rolling to a stop sign or while running ,that's not a good sign. So, I seriously doubt it's your ABS unit you hear. More likely a wheel bearing, cv joint or similar in your case.

not what i wanted to hear lol, cant aford to do cv shafts right now but im parking the Z for a few days until i can get a power steering line its leaking bad now, when i hammer on it i got a cloud of smoke behind me from burning off the exhaust and the steering gets stiff on corners

Cliff8928 wrote:

Chad91GTZ wrote: I want magnesium wheels.

FTMFW.

90GTZHO wrote:Chad you have a feasible idea but one problem.... Stock GTZ rims have a 54mm hub bore, and the N-hubs are like 60 or so mm. You would have to bore the back of the GTZ wheels to make them work, then do it to all four just so you can rotate the tires when the time comes. But in doing that, now you wont be able to use the stock center caps unless you have new custom ones made. If you stick an N-hub in the back of a GTZ wheel with no studs on it, you will see how much bigger the hug bore is. Its easier, and cheaper, to just change the rims out with universal bolt wheels when doing the N-brakes. Been there, done that, i wanted to put my GTZ rims back on, but wasnt gonna spend my life fortune trying to make it work.

57.1mm VS 70.3mm

Hmm, need to bust out the micrometers again.

I'm pretty sure there's enough meat to just mill the outside of the stud hat off, all the machining would be done to the bearing, not the wheels.


Thats the only party I cant do on my bridgeport, I would need to throw it in the lathe for that, to make sure it stays concentric.

My mill is not a CNC, its just a digital readout with ball screws.

Anyway, its not that expensive. And again, you dont need to touch the rims.

but you gotta have the hub hat on there to help center the wheel and support it. I dont see just the studs supporting all the weight of the wheel without the center bore hat. I dunno, maybe we can find someone to do this and see it will work. Im all for it if it does I would love to rock my GTZ wheels once again