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Thats a relative point of view... Heat wraps will sometime accelerate rusting as well since they do not allow the item to breath and sometimes hold in contaminates that damage the steel much worse.

Ceramic coating headers has been a general procedure for a long time... Your only hearing about it a lot with me because I'm a DIY kinda person... The less I rely on someone else the more I can say the car is what it is because of what I've put into it. I found an alternative to sending my headers off to Jet Hot and having them coated... Plus I didn't have time for their 2 week turn around time that they quoted me when I wanted to do this. So I went DIY and to be honest, I've never said I'm a pro with a paint gun, or a pro at prepping the surface, so I'm learning as I go. It doesn't bother me and thats how I like to do things. In the end when I get it right and someone asks me, "Hey where did you send your headers because they look sweet" I can respond with I did them myself.

Also Ace... If I didn't want the "trouble" I wouldn't be using headers. Fast cars always cause trouble

If I didn't want the "trouble" I wouldn't be using headers. Fast cars always cause trouble

Ain't that the truth.

Ah well. Obviously having way less experience with that, from an outside point of view it just seems like such an pita to deal with.. LOL Maybe someday I will feel your pain.

As said I could send them to Jet Hot and there would be no trouble, but whats the fun it that... It kills the built not bought term

I just recently had to send my Legacy ECU to a company for recovery and it took them 2 weeks before the touched it... NO LIE... My daily driver was on jack stands for that duration... so once again my DIY attitude was reinforced and I built the circuit to recover the ECU if it ever happens again.

Ah okay. I used VHT, baked on in an oven, and its holding up a lot better than the coating that the 60degreeinclusive guy used. He must have something wrong in his process cause Alan's are all cruddy now too.

I still have to finish up the front header, but maybe I'll do that one with the powder ceramic coat that my friend has.

3X00-Modified wrote:As said I could send them to Jet Hot and there would be no trouble, but whats the fun it that... It kills the built not bought term

Yeah but you didn't build your valves, gears, cam, torque converter, etc... you bought those...

Smart a$$...

LOL!

3X00-Modified wrote:And yes your three week wait still looks bad since yours still discolored as well. I can re-paint these as many times as I want and ONLY incur downtime when I can afford it... not when the vendor feels like screwing me over. There is a big difference between a vendor having your balls in a vice and you making the decision.

The rear header was never coated before either, this is the first time it's seen anything more than spray paint so it's not a big deal really. I'll worry about it after this season and spend the time to get it right.

I guess my time is more valuable to me than yours is to you. I spent $200 for a lifetime warranty against flaking or chipping and you spent I'm guessing $100 ($50 coating/$50 blasting) for a temporary solution that will need to be redone?

Mine had a slight color shift in the first week and have stayed the same ever since. I'm happy.


Mark, I thought about VHT'ing my new truck headers and baking them. You've had success so far?

My VHT worked really well, until winter time. The salt screwed them up pretty bad. You will have the truck out in the snow so I would shy away from it

woody what color were they suppose to be? the slight color shift isn't bad kinda has a gun-metalish look.

Try $20 invested so far. Yet you rag on me about spending money to have my car painted professionally... Your switching sides here... Your time was less valuable doing your own body work?

99GaGT3X00 wrote:woody what color were they suppose to be? the slight color shift isn't bad kinda has a gun-metalish look.

They were all done "extreme heat silver" and they matched the intake pipe which was done with the same powdercoat before the first couple heat cycles. They yellowed slightly very quickly and I was afraid they would continue to yellow, but it hasn't gotten any worse since that first week...and I've driven it every day since then and to Boston & back...so I think they will be fine.

3X00-Modified wrote:Try $20 invested so far. Yet you rag on me about spending money to have my car painted professionally... Your switching sides here... Your time was less valuable doing your own body work?

You didnt buy the coating for $20. And if you got them blasted for $20 I need the number for your blaster! haha

You have a point on the paint job. Your car's finish is much better than mine, but we're talking the difference of about $3500, not $100.

Barry wrote:My VHT worked really well, until winter time. The salt screwed them up pretty bad. You will have the truck out in the snow so I would shy away from it

No sense wasting my time then. Thanks for the heads up!

Yes 4oz of colorguard cast iron was 19.99 check for yourself. And the blasting was done for free the guy does a lot for amy's dad and the exhaust was so easy in comparison to the rims for his healey he had done.

Yeah i noticed while changing my shift cables 4 times.
That the header wrap i but around the header to keep from burning up cables and whatnot is starting to rust alittle.

I bought more than 4oz cause I was doing the intake pipes too. But it was like $50 IIRC. Free blasting is sweet, you got lucky there. Since the gaskets are reusable you can afford to gently caress it up quite a few times!