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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:09 pm
by 3X00-Modified
For those wondering, this is what the inside of the garage looks like...
There is a ton more crap in there now but I do not want to loose that look... Also the boards you see are the interior walls and the exterior... and the gaps between them are covered only by strips of wood.
My next thought was to pull the exterior boards off and wrap the post frame with a moisture barrier wrap, then put the boards back up...Now from the inside I have a sealed wall with the posts still visible that I can place foam insulation in between all the posts and beams and just cover that with wainscoting or something to get the natural wood color back.
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 1:17 pm
by themixer
needs a big ass wood stove!
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 1:38 pm
by 3X00-Modified
It's not HUGE, but it's big enough

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 2:15 pm
by themixer
berry nice

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:00 pm
by 3X00-Modified
As noted these are all old photos... like 2 yrs old. I have a huge 2000lb per/shelf rack right next to the stove now and just a ton of other crap... looking at the photos makes me wonder where it all came from... LOL
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 5:12 pm
by bonecrrusher
Is that like 2.5 bays?
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:54 pm
by 3X00-Modified
2.5 yes and deep so "oversized" as they call it
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 3:40 pm
by bonecrrusher
Looking good.
Yeah - looks like you got some tough decisions to make with the insulation choices.
There really is no good way to keep the rustic look and try to insulate with traditional insulation.
I like the exposed beam look - but it has to be cold as hell in there in the winter.
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:41 pm
by 3X00-Modified
bonecrrusher wrote:I like the exposed beam look - but it has to be cold as hell in there in the winter.
Only before I get the wood stove going, after that its workable and I'm actually sweating most of the time.
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:37 am
by berettaboi
depending if you like the look of the outside (does it match your house as well?) could always insulate, wrap, and maybe use siding
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:15 am
by 3X00-Modified
Somewhat of a fan of the outside as well, I don't want to slap siding on it like the hours hence why one of my choices was to do exterior insulation then re wrap with rough cut boards.
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 1:41 pm
by woody90gtz
Ok, that's right. Been a while since I've been in your garage. I really like that look, too. Insulation really is a big help though. Is it hot in there in the summer? Mine was unbearable before I insulated it.
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 10:15 am
by DTMAce
Considering the construction style, if it were mine, I would insulate the inside. I know its all about the rustic barn look but if you wanted rustic barn and can put up with cold winters, hot summers, you wouldn't be thinking of ways to creatively do this.
Cost obviously is an issue. You can technically insulate the inside and put a similar look over the interior, however you would be covering the beams and such. Alternate? Thin layer of spay on or panel foam,sealing all the little joints, then put a wood something over that, but still below the beams, so they still show.
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 10:24 am
by 3X00-Modified
I Think I'm going to go with my last plan this spring...
3X00-Modified wrote:
My next thought was to pull the exterior boards off and wrap the post frame with a moisture barrier wrap, then put the boards back up...Now from the inside I have a sealed wall with the posts still visible then I can place foam insulation in between all the posts and beams and just cover that with wainscoting or something to get the natural wood color back.
This way I can get the moisture barrier between the outer boards and the main posts so I have a good wind/and water seal from the outside and I don't have to really worry about sealing the cracks with anything... The next option if I don't want to do that is to insulate the inside with the same method as described above and then pull off the furring strips on the outside and fill the cracks with the same stuff used on a log cabin, I think that would hold up better than caulk and it's made to fill cracks like that, and probably easier to deal with than the expanding foam since you decide how much you want in one spot and don't need to trim it back afterwards.
It's not unbearable in the summer since it doesn't get a ton of sun, it is shaded a good amount, but I could counter some of the heat by installing a vent at the peak since right now there isn't anything there to let out the hot air. I would obviously install something I could close in the winter to keep in whatever I'm producing for heat.
And as far as ceiling insulation goes, I'm not so critical on that part... I wouldn't mind just stapling in some roll out insulation and leaving it brown, I MAY cover it with something if I don't like the look but I'm not so worried about that.
Re: 1996 Mr.Pink
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 1:49 pm
by woody90gtz
Well if you're insulating at all, the ceiling needs to be done. Mine actually had insulation in the walls when I bought it, but it got SUPER hot in the summer. It was a night/day difference when I put R30 in the ceiling.