Beretta.net

I'll put it on this weekend. Thanks for the heads up! The plan was to go about 1K and change the oil and filter. That's out now.

Yeah since when I do them I start them, run them for a little then change the oil and filter, you changing the filter should be good enough since you've been driving it and it does have clean oil in it.

The filter has been changed. The T-stat bypass started leaking(I thought it might). With no other O-rings out there I used a old injector O-ring. You may ask "how did you do that?". I put it into some gas to make it swell. It was had to get on,but I got it on there. It was even harder to get it into the hole. I don't think it will ever leak. The strange thing was that the engine was running stronger everytime I drove it and after it lost the coolant and got hot it was running weak. I reset the computer and I hope that did it(I'll see tonight). The TPS was acting up, but I do have a few used ones from the JY. I'll look for a new one at the auto parts stores that doesn't have a spring inside.

It didn't OVER heat did it? It will run faster and faster as the ECM fine-tunes the fuel trims. After resetting the ECM it will be slow for a while then it will get better.

I would match up the O-ring as swelling and stretching it might make it suddenly fail (snap) then you might have a major coolant spray/leak. I'd fix it proper as soon as you get a a chance so you aren't stuck somewhere. Auto store or hardware store will have a bunch of generic ones to match up. Auto stores keep ti behind the counter.

I'm not sure on the overheat. The temp sensor is in line with the bypass. I know it got very hot though, after the flush the guy at the shop took it out for a test drive and ran the piss out of it. It was running good after that though. It didn't get too hot when the bypass seal failed(I would let it). So far after the computer reset the car is running strong at some points and weak in others. This is going to be a wait and see. For the O-ring I'll have to go to the JY to get one to take to the hardware store. As I said, the guys at the part stores couldn't find one that would work.

Damn, you didn't keep the failed one? I bet someone on 60degreev6 would know what size it is....

I did keep it, but put in some gas to make it fit tighter and it got too large. The injector O-ring is only stretched a little. About one time larger than it was after it was put in the gas.

nice action money pit, i'm liking the intakes man, hope you are too!

Thanks man, when the car was running good I was thinking it was one of the best mods I've ever done. I wish that I still had my 90GT so I could do what you did to yours. That and a few other things. I still say that the 3.1/3T40 is a better set up than what I have now.

I'll race any 3.1/3T and smoke em!

Just get a better FDR and slightly higher stall and it will feel more like the good low end from the older 3spd.

i'll race you isaic lol some time, maybe bfest? lol hey you guys going?

IsaacHayes wrote:I'll race any 3.1/3T and smoke em!

Just get a better FDR and slightly higher stall and it will feel more like the good low end from the older 3spd.

Bring it!!!

I'll race you's guys LOL

The 3T40 had a better FDR. Also it was a four speed. I forgot to tell you Isaac that my valves were almost as clean as yours were in that photo you had(very close). What is this I'll race you stuff guys? Ok, I'll race you 3X00, but you only get to use your first gear.
The engine is running strong again and I'm happy. The power has gone up all over the RPM range. Wish I had some headers, but the high flow cat and the Magnaflow muffler help. The CAI is not on yet. Looks like I'll have to do some cutting and it looks like the battery tray is in the way also.

3t40 is a 3 speed with converter lock up... the 4t60e is a 4-speed with converter lockup.

Also beretta 3t40's vs 4t60e's FDR was like a 2.96 vs 2.92 3t40 being the 2.96... That's not enough to even blow a fart at.