Beretta.net

Thanks Ben, I'll do it.
Sorry about the PM. I forgot that you were "new" to this site. Also my email was down at the time(just got it set up right).

It's ok 3X00, I know I'm vague when I post sometimes. And I always over think things. It's just how I am.Thanks for all the info. I trust the stock gaskets more than anything else. Over the years I've had alot of trouble with other gaskets(unless they have the same make up as the stock ones). We will have to talk about the bolts later(need more info on the stud), I have to order some headers.

Quick kick in on some header input. I'm using the Stage 8 bolts, and a set of cut up stock gaskets, everything has held up perfect for the first 1k miles. Good to hear you are already at 15k on yours Jon, that'll be like 3 more years worth of driving on my car! lol

6910 is indeed the Stage 8 number, GM 2.8 V6 Header Bolt Kit. I love these little bolts.

One thing I'm going to do is switch to a heated 02 sensor, my 02 is quite far downstream on these old headers and it takes forever to heat up and get the car ready to drive on the first start of the day.

O2 is a mile away


I spent around 6 hours porting a ton of weld slag and overhanging pipe in that homemade collector. It was pretty gnarly but I got it down to being very smooth with nice sharp edges and smooth contours. I was pretty surprised at home much I worked out of it. It was pic worthy but my old crappy digital couldn't get the photo



For what its worth: these clear everything on the 5 speed, but smack right into a 3t40 - the rear header won't even bolt to the head. So the big thing after clearing the auto is clearing the sway bar and the rack and firewall. The 5 speed essentially hides in the engine bay compared to the auto.

That's what I wanted to hear! Thanks! Did you have any trouble getting the bolts on? Oh and I have a 3100.

I bought a tap and ran it down the threads to clean them anyways, I wasn't messing around. On a few of them I actually needed to do it, probably from slight stretching or junk left behind from the stock bolts.

Also that photo is with the 3400's fuel lines, I've since switched to the style on your 3100 and they clear everything much better. I really need to get the heated o2 sensor in and wired up, I think that will help me a ton.

I love how you have them on with the engine out. Mine will still be in, but I may have the trans out soon. Boy that is one clean engine. Wish mine was that clean. One less wish now.......... people there is now only one set left!

I missed the edit, I was doing some of my own and getting the headers. KFLO did you make those?

I guess that's the benefit of having a mostly gutted car at the time.

I put everything together, engine, clutch, tranny, headers and lifted it all up into the bay from the bottom and bolted it in. Piece of cake. Getting to that point took a while.

It's funny, I had that engine on the stand for 2 years probably, and only now do I realize I should have had the main mounting plate flipped 180*, that would have made the mounting look a lot more legit... LOL I did keep 4 bolts in though, that 1 is just out for header mock up at the time.

CONGRATS on the purchase!!!!!!

1 more set left, somebody needs to jump all over this deal!

I have got to quit doing those edits(please review my last post). Thanks for the congrats. Dang you had it easy.

KFLO 93 GT wrote:Good to hear you are already at 15k on yours Jon

15k of daily driving when they were in the red car... LOL, Pinky as accumulated 15k in the last two years going to over 4 bfests, two national and two local, and a bunch of around town miles, and visiting a friend in NC... But yeah the headers themselves and my modified setup has a total of 30k+ miles on it. Including the bottom end of that motor and the valve job...

KFLO didn't make those, Steve Hamm did (spelling), for Norm who had a supercharged 3.2L GT... it was stolen and run into the ground and he parted it when he got the car back... Kurt purchased the headers from him had them cleaned up and is using them now.

These are pretty legendary. They were made by Steve Hamm back around 1998 or 1999, he made them in mild steel and sold them for around $600 at the time.

This set was purchased special order by Norm Crowe, who had quite the history behind his car and build(s) on it, and Norm had them made in stainless. According to what I've been able to find out this is the only set Steve ever made in stainless. Norm said they were around $1k at the time, I got them for a solid deal. They became the inspiration for my swaps when they wouldn't clear my 3t40.

eidt: I tried to put them on, and ended up having to pull the rear head to get the exhaust manifold off. Then 2 headgaskets later and the headers wouldn't bolt on - I was discouraged. This was August of 2006. That was the last month the car saw the road as a 3.1 auto.

whoa - this post review feature is neat! Looks like Jon beat me to the post.

EDIT: Crap, a whole othe rpage to read through... well, my repsonse to page 4:

Jon, I'm not worried. I'm just saying if you had a shot spark plug wire or something, and one cylinder was not burning, that it would make the AFR seem a lot richer than if it was one out of 6 not burning. You still have a problem either way, stock or reading 1 bank if you have a missfire that bad. :p That would be the only thing it would affect. And I'm not sure how much of a difference that would be. And I'm not talking about reporting missfires, I'm talking about if you have one cyl not burning, it will throw off the AFR of the whole motor as it will lean it back out, then it will see the motor is lean and richen back up, and yo-yo. A stock motor will do this.... It's only going to be different than stock if there is a PROBLEM with your motor, and it probably won't make that big of a difference to even tell. It will run poopy reading 3 or 6 cyl if you have an issue... Anyway it doesn't matter..

Will a 96 fan be able to be taken in/out with headers in place? Or is the slim motor still not enough?

I'm betting that once these are proven to fit (out of beta) that people will start buying them. Lots of people have DD or are afraid that they will get something that won't fit since nothing is out and on our cars yet. And I'm pretty damn sure the 2nd gen J bodies can use these as well as grand ams of the same era up to 98.. I don't think their firewall is any different.

MBP, no need to tune out a problem, you fix it! lol... But if you want to get full power in the future tuning is best of course.

Jon, these header _flanges_ (you said collector) are cut a bit different than S&S. S&S connect in the center, these are more down low (easier to get to the spark plugs) but will that be even more in the way of the stock gaskets? I don't have a set at hand to look at right now. That's the only difference I can think of mattering.

KFLO: yeah heated O2 is essential to even stock gen2 motor. Just a nice upgrade to have for any car with a single wire.

Oh yeah, I remember Norm. He had a great write up on his N/A build and that told me what was out there for my 90GT. Too bad that didn't make it to this new site. I just joined Bnet at the time when he was selling those headers. I never heard what had happened to his car. Someone(and I think I know who) called dibs on them and I lost out(I also had a 3T40 though). Thanks for the help on this Isaac, KFLO and 3X00.
I have to find a place to buy the Stage8's, get the gaskets and get my new trans in. I would think that it would be easier to get the headers on with the trans out. It's getting damn cold around here though, inside or out.
Isaac if you get yours on before me, send me some tips or things to look out for.

One thing you run the risk of is not being able to access all of the bellhousing bolts with the front header on.

I bought my Stage 8s from summitracing.com:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STG-6910" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Stage 8's WILL back off sooner or later with the heat cycles.

Percy's Performance Split Lock header bolts FTMFW!!

The Stainless are the best but the Oxide ones will do the job.

http://www.percyshp.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have the ARP stainless studs ($100) and they are JUNK!

With the S&S headers at least, the transmission can not be pulled without removing the front header... at least with an 87-91 trans mount.