Beretta.net

Long time no update.
Destruction of the base and purchase of the black car took quite a lof of my time and some other thing.
Anyway the project is moving along greatly now.


Engine got back on the car.


Some ARP studs to make the head stay there.

On the pic you can see some of the new coolant pipes with had to be made for the electrical water pump.
They are mostly made from copper and some hose parts are cutted from stock hose.


I did put the head on also, it was not ported this time, and will stay for like next summer.
I have more plans for it witch need more time so i'm using it as it is now.

I also installed nylon bushings to inner tierods, they are stiffer than the poly ones i had there.


Then, i did put the Bilsteins together finally, they needed LOT of work and some small custom parts too.

And i also figured out that these units i got from Mantapart, are some special valved and shortened down versions, so my eibach spring were way too long for these now! You can see that on the pic. The progressive part is all dead allready and it's not on the car yet.


Putting em to car, cause the car lift up around 1" from stock height! And thats with 4" shorter units.

Combo with this competition Bilstein and stock eibach ended up being way too stiff to use, i could not even get the suspension moving while 2 mans were jumping over the strut towers!

In that pic, car is still on air, but it did look the same on the ground.


Instead of getting EXPENSIVE custom springs made, i decided to try this, getting rid of the dead progressive part of eibaches, should not change the spring rate too mutch since it's made to go together like that in smallest bumbs. The issue was that the stronger part of the spring was also compressed already.


Now here's a pic with the shortened spring, looks almost like it should now!

It still has some way to go down, i think it will do that after i get rest of the stuff and fluids on the car to make it weight more again. Now i could even force the suspension to move again, so it might just work, can't know for sure before i get this thing on the road again.

Oh, and suspension travel on these units is around 4" but they are so stiff that i bet it wont be ever used so mutch.

Wheel hubs do have the longer and stronger bolts installed too

Since the suspension travel changed so much, i had to get supports for the now too long brake hoses to go, so they wont rub anything.



Now it's time to start getting the rear brakes together too.
Here's a Corvette C4 caliper test mounted to new rear wheel hub.
Discs to come, and caliper will also get some paint.

Oh and i have thousand other thing going on the car too, will share some pics soon.

Shouldn't the bleeder valve be at the bottom of the caliper.  
Looking good.

(1988GTU @ Jan. 05 2008,19:26)QUOTEShouldn't the bleeder valve be at the bottom of the caliper.  
Looking good.
Doesn't really change anything

bleeders are always on the top that i can remember.  

looks good as always weba, I can't wait til you get the rest of your goods.

looks good.  I have those same rear calipers on my IROC and I just polished the aluminum though your probably trying to make them match the fronts.

Here's something every Quad owner needs. Some older members should know where's it's from
Oh and now the ported manifold is for sale.


Installed, the aluminium heath shield in front of the steering rack is something my father made with amazing blacksmith skills he seem to have

There was quite few steps to make this work but it's definitely worth it.
There's more too, i'l share pics soon...

that shield is very nice

the header looks good weba. lets see pics of how the o2 clears, i just guessed when i put it in.  

That heat shield is sweet! I wonder if it would fit with my V6...

awesome...

i love seeing updates with this project

Little something whats going on.

I put the engine together using Nukkin's cam tower 'stud' kit, let see how does it work.


Belt drive sure makes things tight, it could use some re-design for sure.


Putting first pieces of exhaust together

That is the 1/3 mufflers i'm going to use, that one is DNA 3" Street Series one, i think design on this looks superior vs the normal 'look-thru' free flow fartcans. I dont want this thing to sound like a honda so...


Oh and i got my Compcams, 269 degree rotation @ lifter, .430" lift.
They are NOT going in now cause they need supporting mods, no time or money now.. so maybe summer 2009  

Since Bnet does not allow to edit posts, i'l keep my TODO\modification list HERE!

I bough Long-type oil filters to get some more oil in the engine, it takes over 5 liters with one of these.
When it comes to oil capacity bigger is better.  

After getting 270-275 on compression test, was time to try to get the new engine running!

Some video for you:
YouTube link
(It's really compressed so quality kinda sucks, Maybe i'l release a better one later, the RAW file is 1.8GB so...)

Starting the new engine for the first time, was kinda exciting to do, since i'v never done complete engine rebuild before.
Did not have any fuel\coolant\oil leaks so looks good so far.

In the vid i'm keeping the RPM's around 2500 to get oil flowing good everywhere. At the end i let the engine idle a bit so you can hear some of it.
It was running on stock chip while filming, and 3" exhaust with one DNA muffler, can't hear it on the vid so well but it sounded really damn good (and loud), anyway it's going to need couple more mufflers to quiet it down to street levels.. remember 3000 rpm is where the noice really starts on Quad.

I wish I was there to see the look on your face.  

(wicked-irocz @ Feb. 18 2008,11:36)QUOTEI wish I was there to see the look on your face.  
It was something like this: