Beretta.net

I already have the front urethane in my setup and I was going to do what Tyler did but I said to hell with it and I'm giving these a try first. When I have more time and I can test fit the stuff on a nicer set of sub frames then I'll go all urethane.

Since my subframes are off and in really good shape, I'll just go with the urethane. Might as well, I don't plan on taking it apart again anyways.

Remember the urethane is not a direct fit, you need to shave down the thickness of the ring on the control arm to fit the opening of the urethane bushing, and then have spacers made for the top and bottom since they are shorter than the originals... Tyler opted for a delrin ring the same diameter as the top of the bushing so it would have the same surface area touching at the top. Not huge mods or issues but just wanted to make sure you knew everything.

So those moog bushings are basically a balljoint assembly with grease boots on it... Very hefty and smooth... I will post some pics in my thread of it later tonight when I get home. I'm definitely using those even over the poly bushings.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_e ... ure_EN.pdf

It's like one step down from having a Monoball bushing. The alignment will probably stay more accurate under acceleration as well!

I think you all are convicing me to go Moog... It really doesn't take much to convince me to go with them though, lol.

I just have all of the above, a new set of the poly bushings for the fronts and I'll be using the Moog in the rear... pressing out the brand new bushings that come in the new control arms... LOL so wasteful.

Those moog's are sweet. I will go that way when mine wear out.

Cliff8928 wrote:http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_e ... ure_EN.pdf

It's like one step down from having a Monoball bushing. The alignment will probably stay more accurate under acceleration as well!

Going to check my new Moog control arms for those.

Problem solver-57 is all that I could find(no part number).

The problem solver control arms are only referring to having their problem solver balljoint.

That's a bummer. The ball joints really need to be modified for roll center correction anyways, for proper suspension control...

Update - cleaned up the surface rust on the subframes with some Naval Jelly, that stuff really does a good job...

About the only thing the old Gabriel's are good for are Koni inserts... We'll see how these new Delco struts hold up though. Have to be better than the Gabriel's!

They're FE7 struts, but they were cheaper, lol.

I highly doubt they are valved for FE7 or how GM originally valved them... They just have the tab on them to accept the FE7 swaybar.