Beretta.net

My trans can be removed without removing the headers on my '92.

"I" have never done it, but it's been out a couple of times.

That was the plan, but if the headers show up before I get the trans in I'll just change both. As I said I think it would be easier that way. We will see how it goes.

I fail to see how the Stage 8s will back off, they have a tab that physically locks the bolt head against the header primary. That tab locks onto the bolt head and is held into position by an snap clip/E clip thing.

I could be wrong though, maybe that will back off...

Do they really back off that often? What keeps OEM from coming out?

Why not use a spring washer or star washer and call it good? Maybe re-torque after a few drives...

I have alan cap screws and a damn lock washer... all this hub bub and I have yet to loose one.

I lost one, but that was when it fell on the cradle and I didnt have my trusty magnet to pick it up.... It was a stock bolt. Buying more than I needed came in handy!

I guess it could have been the cast iron heads on the SBC(there is more to it than just that). We had to tighten the header bolts every two weeks. Lock washers were on all of them and still a few would be loose. I don't want to even think about doing that on this engine with all that stuff in the way. After all of the years of doing that I just want to do it once and be done with it.

Jon, are you using star washers or spring style lock washers? Any reason for the allen head screws over a normal bolt head other than looks? If you really wanted to be fancy a button hex cap would look even better... hehehe. I'll probably go for normal stainless bolts. I don't trust small allen stuff... I do have allen 3/8" sockets though so that would make it easier than say an allen wrench.. haha

KFLO 93 GT wrote:One thing you run the risk of is not being able to access all of the bellhousing bolts with the front header on.

I bought my Stage 8s from summitracing.com:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STG-6910" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for the tip and the link!

I used the factory studs and factory locknuts for all but 2, and I used shortened 3100 UIM bolts for the others.

IsaacHayes wrote:Jon, are you using star washers or spring style lock washers? Any reason for the allen head screws over a normal bolt head other than looks? If you really wanted to be fancy a button hex cap would look even better... hehehe. I'll probably go for normal stainless bolts. I don't trust small allen stuff... I do have allen 3/8" sockets though so that would make it easier than say an allen wrench.. haha

Looks for one, and the other was the fact that I couldn't find something with a small enough head that you could get a socket on in that area. It would have to be like what woody said, an intake bolt, but I don't trust those for strength.

As far as the lock its just a spring lock washer, no star or anything special. All of my bolts I've tried to change over to a stainless cap screw and I polish the tops of them... It looks purdy... LOL

I tighten them with the long ball end of the alan wrench in the bolt, (other reason I use them I can manipulate the angle better to access them) and I put a box end wrench on the short L end and use that for leverage... as I said I have YET to loose one and I've done over 30k on these headers in two different cars. The only time I lost 4 was when I removed them and then forgot where the hell I put them. LOL

Good to know about the clearance getting a socket in there. Didn't think of that. The factory bolts have a pretty small head, but aftermarket bolts are rather large head.
What about using oil pan bolts? IIRC SuperDave uses those...

Jon, for ultimate bling, you should get some hex socket dome screws, in Titanium!! Good for weight reduction too!
I'm trying to find some hex dome screws m8 65mm length in any material, (so far no luck) for the UIM.

i bought a set of replacement studs and nuts from napa awhile back and i used them when i put my headers on. they are a little less than a 1/2" longer than stock studs.

i put the headers on the heads before the heads went in the car.

issac i found these they are Socket Head Cap Screws. its what i was using before.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PART ... O=12386970" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

IsaacHayes wrote: I'm trying to find some hex dome screws m8 65mm length in any material, (so far no luck) for the UIM.

Just countersink the holes and get flat head SS Allen screws. That is what I did.

The material is really soft.

In fact I have an extra set I think.

3X00-Modified wrote: as I said I have YET to loose one and I've done over 30k on these headers in two different cars. The only time I lost 4 was when I removed them and then forgot where the hell I put them. LOL

That's what I am talking about...