Beretta.net

The bypass seems to be the cheap way out. I'm seeing on rockauto the A/C compressor bypass pulley is 27.89.
This is what I'm looking for correct? Will I need anything else?

Yes. No, you shouldn't need anything else. It's designed to be able to still run the factory size belt once in place of the compressor.

Thanks for the info on that SGR. I'm gonna go that route. I'll be getting it done as soon as I can. My dad doesn't seem to like the idea much however, but I don't care, I'm not trying to buy a whole new A/C system, as I really don't need/use it at all. It could always be replaced down the line anyway.

Np man ,glad to help.

Just a lil' update, DD'ing it still.
Still no AC delete, and really no grinding noise this winter so far.
I have a little squeaking from the pass side front wheel from time to time now, but it goes away, I think it's a brake thing.
Also the cluster has not been swapped yet, but I'm sure I'm getting at least 25+ MPG city/hwy. The replacement cluster is still in my closet waiting for March, when the car hits 69k.
Sense the last update I have gotten a history report, no accidents, but it now has a mileage discrepancy, but I don't care.
I know what it has on it, the report says exactly 100k more than what it really has, and I have contacted the auction that reported it, and they admitted it was a mistake on they're part, and it's now up to me to report that.
Whatever, it don't matter, It's my car, and it's not for sale, (anymore) and once the engine is swapped it won't matter anyway.
One more thing concerning the mileage, the owners manual says it has a tamper resistant ODO, and if it has been tampered with it would have silver lines between the #'s.
It DOES NOT have lines between the #'s, so my ? is can an ODO be tampered with, without these lines showing up?
Either way I still feel pretty confident the car has just over 60k on it as the shocks and struts are 100% original, and are still quite solid.
This coming spring/summer it will most likely be getting the 3400 swap, and the engine will have low miles on it anyway.
I might even swap the trans too! Also gonna be doing the suspension. (If someone with a complete eibach/KYB setup would sell me they're NIB parts, or at least give me the PN's for all the pieces for 95/96 berettas.)
I love this car, and I'm happy that Pendot hasn't layed salt down in the area I drive in this winter yet. WOO WOO!

Man you are lucky. They put down salt here everytime it gets close to 32*, even if it's dry.
Glad to hear that you are not giving up on this car.

You can tamper with the ODO and not have the silver lines pop up. I can't tell you how many times I've messed with mine (it has been awhile, but I was swapping clusters a lot back in the day), and mine are not showing (it does have the correct mileage for the car though).

heavywoody wrote:You can tamper with the ODO and not have the silver lines pop up. I can't tell you how many times I've messed with mine (it has been awhile, but I was swapping clusters a lot back in the day), and mine are not showing (it does have the correct mileage for the car though).

Well either way I'm still quite sure it has low miles. In the history report, there are a few mileage readings reported, there is a couple really low readings reported, like under 10k, and then there is a 28k reading reported. Then it has nothing for a couple years, then there is one which reads 157k. That was reported at the auction I talked to about this, and it was also reported a couple weeks before I got the car. So the fact there is nothing between 28k, and 157k, lead me to believe it was an incorrect reporting, even before I talked to the auction, as that is pretty much exactly 100k more than what it had when I first seen the car.
Also the old inspection sticker, and oil change sticker had mileage on them, and they both were correct (low). The inspection sticker read 52k I think, and the oil change sticker read 61k I believe. It sucks the history report is wrong, but it's all good, like I said I know what it has for sure now.

I have a question regarding oil pressure.
In my car, I'll start it and the oil pressure will hold at the 3/4 line for about a minute or two. This is on cold start.
After a short while it will drop down steadily to the 1/2 mark on the gauge. This is while sitting and warming up.
Once I start driving, it will be steady at the 1/2 mark while I'm on the gas holding a steady speed, but upon acceleration from a stop, or a slow down the oil pressure will rise as the engine revs. It'll rise to about the 3/4 mark, and then drop to the 1/2 mark when it shifts from 1st gear to 2nd.
This only happens upon acceleration, and more so when it's cold, it seems to do it less as it warms up.
I'm wondering, is this normal/ok? If not, is this bad? If it's bad, what may be the problem?
The car still runs strong, and I'm having no problems, but I'm just curious.

Perfectly normal.

Most cars fluctuate just like that. My 3100 in the Z does too. At idle it will be near the quarter mark when its fully warmed up during summer. The base however is always pegged, because the sensor never got upgraded when the cluster was updated to a Z cluster. I know it has pressure, cause it goes from 0 to pegged while cranking and stays there.

If your oil level got too low, your low oil light should kick on for one, and if your pressure gets too low, the gauge will actually drop clear to 0 or jump from where its at, to 0 and back again. I saw this reaction when I put a hole in the oil pan couple years ago. Once that started happening, I shut it down right away, never hurt anything, still going today! Well not right now, its in storage, but you get the idea.

Ok, that's good to know. It's been like this sense I got the car, so I always just figured it was normal. I was just curious. I did check my fluid levels today and everything was good, oil was good looking. So I don't have a low oil level.
I was concerned only because, back in April of last year, I went to check out a 94 Quad 4 Z and that did the same thing just much worse. The oil pressure gauge seemed like it was tied into the tach. Coasting, it would drop almost to the bottom, and under throttle it would go up depending on how much you were getting into it. Different motor and trans I know, I just know that car had some serious engine issues. (bad headgaskets, possible cracked head, grinding timing chain etc.)
Man thinking of that car now I really wish I could have got it. I had intentions on trading for it back then. (Was gonna trade the same car I traded for the Z a month later) But with the problems it had I just couldn't get the dealer to give me a reasonable deal. The body on that thing was PERFECT! 100% RUST FREE UNDERNEATH! I came with cash also, but I honestly didn't think it would make it the 150 miles back home, and I didn't want that headache, so I didn't even make a cash offer on it. Oh Well

Ok, so it's about that time to get my gauge cluster replaced. As noted in previous posts my odometer and trip meter stopped a short while after I got this car. I purchased a replacement cluster from a member, and it came out of a car which I believe was wrecked.
I do not know how long this cluster was sitting without being used before I got it, so my question is, if there are any burnt bulbs in the cluster, are they available to purchase new? I ask this because I will be taking the car to a dealer to get the work done, so it's done properly, and documented properly also. I'm wondering about the bulbs because I don't want the dealer to charge me an arm and a leg for new bulbs, so if I can get replacement bulbs myself from a parts store, I will be doing that if needed. I guess I can also have them use bulbs from the bad cluster, as they all work, but just in case the dealer has some kind of problem with that, I'd like to know if these are available, and what kind of bulbs they are exactly? Any feedback is appreciated, this will be happening early next week some time.

They are 194 bulbs, but they have special holders where the bulbs aren't replaceable unless you can solder them in/out of place.

It takes all of 5 minutes to swap clusters; why are you having the dealer do this again?

Thanks for that info above. I'm considering going to a dealer so it's done right and documented properly. What exactly does it take to swap clusters? If it's easy enough, maybe I'll consider giving it a try. I normally don't like to mess around with crap, I'm always afraid of breaking something or messing something up, but then again, you never know until you try right. If someone can explain to me how to do this, it would be great. It would save me the 75 bucks that the dealer wants to do the work. Does it just plug and play, or does anything have to be calibrated or something like that?

Ok the dealer is being messed up, and they want $140 for the work now, they say it's a 2+ hour job. I called he same dealer, and talked to I believe the same person a week ago, and it was 75 bucks for the work. I was just looking at the dash, and it looks like it's just 4 screws to get the black hump price off the dash, correct? Where do I go from there? I do have someone who actually knows what they are doing to do this for me I think, but if i can do it by myself, even better. Also at this point, I'm just gonna say screw the "proper documentation", and just keep the record of it myself.