Beretta.net

Just wondering how hard it is to swap in a stronger trans to replace the burnt out one I have now. It started slipping real bad so I ended up putting Lucas in it to try to stretch it out since it's my only form of transportation right now. Just wondering if it's worth doing with a stock 3100. Or should I just stay with the 4t60?

4t60e's actually are built really well. Not uncommon for them to go 250k 300k. And if yours has as many miles as your profile indicates, why go the HD and have fit/axle issues? Just rebuild it, or swap from a yard and go on. It will last another 200-300k again maybe. LOL

In you can build a 4T 60e Up and it can take well over three or 400 hp I don't know where the thread is on here because I'm on my phone and I can't search but Jon a.k.a. 3400 modified And I both built up or 4t60e, Jon has been running nitrous and a cam a while now and it's held up very well that's why I have high hopes for it working well with my supercharged 3450 setup

Thanks guys. I was just curious if there was a stronger trans i can get in the junkyard for roughly the same price and have it basically bolt right in without any mods. But I guess your right. My car has 303K miles on the original trans according to the previous owner, and a junkyard trans would make it last as long as I need it to.

You can't run a 4t65eHD with your ECU.. It doesn't have the proper shift pressure control circuits. All of the pressure on the 60e is controlled by the Vacuum modulator and not electronic. Also a stock 4t65e will not be much stronger than a stock 60e... If your slipping then you cooked clutch packs and most of the packs are the same between the two transmissions.

If you just want a stock replacement just get another 4t60e from the yard but get one from a 98 Buick or something. Being you have a 95 your car will accept the gear change from 2.97 to 3.29 without any issues and no codes... Plus you end up with a better built 60e. The most you might have to do is swap the VSS ring on the differential to one that matches yours and swap the side cover so you can bolt the motor mount to it.

3X00-Modified wrote:You can't run a 4t65eHD with your ECU.. It doesn't have the proper shift pressure control circuits. All of the pressure on the 60e is controlled by the Vacuum modulator and not electronic. Also a stock 4t65e will not be much stronger than a stock 60e... If your slipping then you cooked clutch packs and most of the packs are the same between the two transmissions.

If you just want a stock replacement just get another 4t60e from the yard but get one from a 98 Buick or something. Being you have a 95 your car will accept the gear change from 2.97 to 3.29 without any issues and no codes... Plus you end up with a better built 60e. The most you might have to do is swap the VSS ring on the differential to one that matches yours and swap the side cover so you can bolt the motor mount to it.

Thanks for the info guys. How hard is it to change out the VSS ring?

Use a gear puller to get them off, make sure they are the same ID, then just heat up the one going on so it expands and drop it onto the diff... Should slide right in place.

You only need to pull the trans end cap cover to remove the diff as well, and remove the clip on the axle shaft going to the drivers side, Quite simple to pull the diff really.

thanks alot. Still debating on putting my engine swap in the cavi on hold and fixing my beretta, or just do up the cavalier first.

Figured I'd just stick to my original thread instead of creating a new one every time. But long story short, I was strap towing my buddy's ranger just a few blocks to his friends garage, and one light tug on the strap and this happens. Not sure exactly how I'm gonna fix it. It's gonna be some extensive welding and bracing I know that, but for right now it's being held in place with a ratchet strap and 2 bungees. Maybe I'll just part it out when I get my cavalier fixed.

there is no way to really fix that, the whole back half of the car is rusted to bits.. Save any good z26 body parts because that shell is toast.

It'll last me till my 3500 cavalier is done. I'll find a way. Poor car
Suppose I could get a few pieces of angle and fab something up to last a lil longer.

Looks like the black base I have.... One reason I decided to leave it down when the engine died.

I knew it was rusty but I didn't know it was that rusty. I'm gonna attempt to fix it so it's driveable without the ratchet strap on it

ruined!!!!!!

Ok so I'm trying to decide wether to fix it so i know it'll last till I get my 3500 cavalier done or I can drive it into the ground till i get the swap done then strip it and part it out. What do you think?