Beretta.net

I found a stripper Beretta at the junk yard, and it's a later year model because of the 3100 in it, so I'm thinking it's a prime candidate for a control arm for my 96. Are there any differences between the control arms of the different model years? What about suspension options?

The control arms from any 94-96 Beretta will work for you, I would change the bushings on the junkyard unit before you install it. 93 and later Beretta's used two horizontal bushings. In 94 they switched to front horizontal, rear verticle.

Thanks.

Out of curiosity, how important are the cotter pins that hold the castelated nut on the ball joint? When I pulled to old one out apparently I didn't get it all and can't get a new one in.

Very important...  if the nut comes off, your wheel disconnects from the control arm altogether.  Major ownage if it comes loose, which they always do, it's just a matter of time.  (If you're on the highway and it comes off, you won't have to worry about it ever again if you get my drift.)  A new balljoint at Advance is like $12 for the cheapest and like $30 for a TRW.  

In my opinion, that has to be the most important (safety wise) part of the front suspension, the cotter pin.

-J

if you have FE3 its going to be bigger. i found that out when they tried to replace my control arm a couple years ago. the one they had was from a 95 same year as my car but it was smaller. guess the fe3 ones are beefier.

You should do the ball joint too.  MAJ28 is right, you won't worry if you are going fast when it goes cuz you will be rolled and flipped.  Considering you can get good joints for 30 each 60 bucks is cheap for replacing these.  As a rule I replace them if it has been a few years and I have the suspension apart.