Beretta.net

Brand new to the forum but glad I found you. Background - my 94/95 Z26 6 cylinder (see my avatar) is my late wife's car which she bought in 96 or 97. It only has 115k on it because we use a C1500 truck for the local runs and as a workhorse. You can imagine that we've had a lot of offers for that low mileage! The main point is that it's a car that we use as our main car. I'd planned to sell it late next year so I'm careful with it.

Unfortunately, we recently got hit by golfball sized hail which spoiled the prettiness and isn't covered by insurance. Still, as a driver, it was still excellent.

Last night, I pulled into a local gas station in town. Too late I discovered that their forecourt has a terrible surface. Over a high manhole cover, down into a dip in the asphalt then a slightly proud cast iron tank vent. That last item met "something underneath". I parked up and saw that my oil was all over the forecourt. I thought I'd punctured the oil pan or the transmission pan. Looking underneath with a flashlight, I saw that the corner of the aluminum was ripped off. (I'll get pictures today.)

Researching in Haynes and online, it's not apparent whether this is a part I can simply replace in situ or whether it needs me to hoist the engine and do major replacement work. Of course I'm aware that even the first option would cause a problem because the part(s) might not exist.

So I come here with bowed head hoping that your greater experience will point me in the right direction before I have to haul the car away to work on it. Obviously, the answers will help me decide whether I haul it to a repair shop (probably more expensive than the car is worth) or to home workshop and, if the latter, whether I'm repairing it or offering it for sale in it's current condition.

Any ideas/suggestions/information will be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance.

You can replace it without removing the engine since it's just the oil pan that's damaged, BUT you will have to drop the passenger side subframe to get the old pan out. And remember there are bolts that go sideways in the pan into the main caps as well as the ones that bolt to the block above vertically.

Been there, done that. LOL But it sucks man.

Thanks for both responses. I need to get my body under her so make sure it really is just the pan. I replaced a transmission pan without trouble working outside on the ground, but getting under her for this job, she's going to have to fly a little. At least it's "possible" that I can do it myself, so I haul her home rather than to a shop. The next trouble is going to be to get the replacement - always fun with Berettas

Thanks again.

They do sell new ones...

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/TC/ ... 4AodWlYArQ

Rockauto as well, DORMAN Part # 264126

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-264-126-Oi ... man+264126

But I'm sure someone may have one on here... If the three I had weren't all on motors I'd send you one.

You guys are great - and quick too! Thanks.

With your thoughts in mind, I ran through details of what I'd have to do (probably solo) and realised that I'd almost certainly find something that was (a) too difficult to avoid cussing; and/or (b) something that I broke - maybe part of me; and/or (c) that wasn't fun (DTMAce!) for an old geezer however much I love fixing stuff. So I asked my "guy" how much and given that I told him I wasn't in a hurry as I have another vehicle, his price was low enough to tempt me.

I love it when I get enough information to make a decision and you guys did that

That is what I went through, after hitting it on a rock. And it still seeps, since its very difficult to weld this shut with contaminants in the metal. I should have just replaced it instead. lol But it worked. Hardest part is getting it apart. It went back together a hell of a lot easier than it came apart. You can read about it in my Z26 project thread below, around page 20 or so.

Hi! I thought I'd come back and let you know that I got the pan replaced. However, I wasn't happy about what felt like backlash that I felt when I braked or if I accelerated suddenly. The workshop that did the repair examined it and said I need my strut bearings replaced (I would have called them bushings, but that's what Chevy call them ). As it was safe and driveable I took it to my usual repair place and had them replace the struts and strut bushings and when they did the re-alignment, there was still a small amount of backlash so we checked and tightened up some bolts which I wouldn't have even known were loose, but they knew even though it was less than 1/16th turn on some. That did the trick and the car drives like it was new. It just goes to prove that this design wasn't at all bad that it can be such a great ride after 20 years!

Again, thanks for the help.