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Well im 92.346999999% sure the clucth gave out on my GTZ.

BUT....you know how things go and well mechanics can make up things. But i just want to make sure its not my transmission.

Today I begin noticing the clutch is getting "sticky" if you will. It wont pop back up as normal.

So after work i pull out the driveway and bam.....i get a loud screech. Everytime i press the clutch i hear this loud screech. If i dont press the clutch in i still hear a noise but not as loud.

So i proceed to find a place to stop then once I put it in neutral it wont go back into gear. The clutch is in its normal position however when i press it in, it wont go all the way in. It seems to stop in the middle as if something is blocking it from traveling all the way down.

I have no experience with transmission and clutchs so this will be a learning experience for me.

I planned to do the work myself but the tow truck knew a shop owner that offered to do the work for 275. I just need to provide the parts.

One hell of a Halloween

It's either the clutch pressure plate itself or something with the slave cylinder, clutch fork or throw out bearing.

What happens if you start it in gear?

Yup. I had a similar issue when I killed a TOB and fork.

First thing to check is will the trans shift with the engine off... if so then odds are it is a fork/bearing or pressure plate issue.

I am not able to start the car. The clutch wont go all the way down. It stops midway. But wierd thing is and this has always been is i am able to move the shifter in all gears without having to press the clutch in. But again its been that way for a while.

So they are charging 275 for labor to replace the clutch, now again i have no experience with transmissions and clutch systems. Only Engines.

So a new clutch kit includes a throw out bearing and pressure plate right? Slave cylinder?

Now what about clutch options. The shop manager told me to go to Pep Boys and get the Luke clutch kit.

You may have a damaged fork as well though and that's going to be the hard part to find/replace IIRC... The kit's don't come with a slave cylinder either.

Please explain more about a damaged fork.

I just confirmed with a few friends....mine should be hydralic....so no fork.

There's a fork, it's actuated hydraulically… Unless you have a newer (1993+) trans.

That style fork is actually available aftermarket for $20-$30

Crap....i was hoping i was in the clear with that issue.

I called the shop and ask if they are going to pull the engine or tranny. They said Tranny.

I never let a mechanic work on my car but since my other car is down and this is my current DD, i need it back up and running. Otherwise i would do the work myself. I know i can pull the engine out as for the clutch work i would ask a friend for help.

But i need the car done asap, so i went with the shop.

A honest mechanic is hard to find.

Mechanic called. Said the fork will need to be replaced. Pressure plate blew up, throw out bearing too.

Honestly, I understand your desire to want to work on it yourself, but $275 labor is a killer deal for you. I would agree that the LUK clutch will probably be good for you -I've had good luck with them in one or two cars, and I've heard from friends that they are consistent and last well. Too bad about the fork though... Personally, I would rather have the possible fork issues (I've NEVER had a problem with one myself) and have an external slave-cylinder, like your car, than be stuck with an inaccessible internal concentric slave, which I HAVE had problems with, and have worked on several cars/trucks that had problems with them...
The clutch friction-disc from my GTU exploded on me a year and a half ago. The car had performed almost flawlessly for years before then as a DD, except that the 3800 SC would cause the clutch to slip under WOT in fourth or fifth gear, sometimes in third. I was pulling a second car when it died, and the GTU was heavily loaded too. I have no one but myself to blame for it, but the timing was... terrible. I did minor damage to the pressure-plate, and luckily didn't hurt anything else. I ended up going with a Stage 3 ceramic puck-clutch, but my car is already pushing the envelope for even this clutch so far as estimated HP, so it was worth the extra $$ for me. If LUK was rated for ~300 ft-lbs of torque and ~275 HP, I would have gone with them for their price...

Rock Auto sells the fork for your car, RHINOPAC / WORLD CAR Part # CF136, for under $20 (plus S&H, of course). Good luck.

Thanks man i gotta call up rock out asap, mechanic said he "might" be able to get one used for 80.

Don't even think about "used" clutch parts!!

C'mon Man!!

Asylum wrote:Don't even think about "used" clutch parts!!

C'mon Man!!

The fork in the Muncie 282 is really more of a transmission component than a 'clutch part', like a more traditional transmission has. I know a few people here have had some serious issues with them, but they are, for the most part, not really a wear item. It isn't like the clutch-fork on an old mechanical-linkage clutch with a pivot-ball... These just don't wear out that often. But, certainly for $20 new... No question!