Beretta.net

before i start i would like to sorry about any mistakes with my english I have a Chevrolet Beretta GTZ 2.3L 1992 5-speed transmition and recently i have a problem with my car my fan starts to not working but only on 2 positions but that is not a problem that it's scare me the big problem that i don't know what is it is when i take to a hard acceleration when i reach 4-th gear about 3000 and 4000 RPM starts to shake like bad spark or coil like misfire and loss power and eats a lot of fuel but the coils and spark plugs are new the car now is like kiti from 180hp when its work bad it has only about 110hp pr maybe less, spark plugs ,coils, IMC every thing is new, this start to happened 2 or 3 months ago i don't have check engine light just code 26 i think is for my cooling fan
, and when is work bad i take off accelerating pedal shift another gear and starts to work normal like nothing happened butt this is not happening all the time like 1 of 3 times i hate this please help

I check MAP,TPS,intake temp.sensor, i don't have schrader valve to test the fuel pump and on the fuel pressure regulator membrane is god ,vacuum leaks check

Replace this: These go bad, and cause problems you describe.

Or convert to spark-plug wires and regular GM two-post coils... Easy to do, just adapt original wiring harness to coils and make a coil mounting-pad. I've done it to two or three cars, no problems since.
Good luck!

the booth is new i've check it i have problem with the original one but i check without quad cover in dark and it doesn't have loss of spark thanks for replay

I've done the neon coil conversion after tryin out the GM traditional DIS coil setup. Both work, but stayed with the neon coil. I preferred the look and aftermarket options (if I should ever utilize that resource) since it stupid cheap.

If you wish to test a theory before replacing parts, disconnect the knock sensor and cautiously drive it to try and reenact that misfiring mishap. If it goes away, I would hope to say its a bad knock sensor. Hope you are not having a true knock retard event. However, if it still occurs, then ignition 'coil' system needs a gone through for possible issues.

thanks for the tip i will try this and i will let you know

I disconnect the knock sensor try accelerating on the first time was running fine on second time start like misfire and lost of power i connect the sensor try again has more power but same on second tume on 5-th gear a little shake and lost of power ...

the first time when i have problems with housing the sparks where all over the place and was stroking all the time it was running on 3 cylinders but now i don't know what it is

Probably something bad within that IDI cover again. It's a nice convenient setup, but when something in it breaks down, it leaves ya chasing ghosts.

Yes, I too still think it is a problem with the housing. They tend to short-out internally, especially while the engine is under load (acceleration) because of the increased spark resistance inside the cylinders. You may not be able to see any sparks if it is shorting out internally, but two of your cylinders will intermittently lose spark if that is the problem. Eventually, you might lose spark in those two cylinders entirely (I had a '92 Grand Am with the 2.3 that had a failure of the IDI coil-housing, and ended up driving half way across the country on two cylinders -top speed was ~32 MPH, but after I unplugged the injectors from the two dead cylinders I was back up to ~ 30 MPG ).

Thanks for the answers i will try to change to wire coils and we will see

hii guys i like to post a comet about my situation with my car i found the problem the problem was the TPS sensor when it was cold somehow it work fine but when it gets hot something went wrong yesterday i have the problem all the time my car bearly move i disconnect the sensor and start so go like everything was fine

So thanks for the answers see ya