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Time to add some R12, and found a guy that still has it. He told me to find where the nozzles are and remove any stuff that was in the way before I drive to his shop. But I can't find where it's done. Is there anything I have to remove and then the nozzles will be visible?

It's on the accumulator IIRC. Remove the airbox and you should see it.

Indeed, thanks

OK, so I got it filled, but still it doesn't work. The guy filling it with R12 swears there's over 2 lbs on, and that pressure is alright. He concluded that the compressor clutch had gotten stuck from not using during winter, might be. So I didn't want to spend more money, drove home to diagnose myself. Here's what I found:

Took compressor clutch wire off, tested with light, gave weak signal. Didn't have more time that day.

Today
Checked fuse 8 and 9, OK
Checked low pressure switch, hi pressure switch, fan switch, power steering switch, they all seem to work, because when I short them, I can hear the idle speed change, so the computer sees the change. I shorted both lo and hi pressure, still no clutch engagement.
Took clutch wire out and used direct + and -, and clutch engaged, so compressor works. Tested wire again, and while I the first time got a weak signal, this time I couldn't get anything.

So, any ideas what to check next, as to why there's no current to the compressor clutch? In the wiring diagram I see a diode just above the starter relay, could that be the culprit since I had first weak, then no signal? I don't know what I diode is, but I never had one fail on any car before.

?

Check the relay for the compressor clutch?

Relay was defective indeed. Used one of the others on the row, got the clutch to engage. I still think the computer doesn't do what it should, but I won't know for sure until I get the new relay. Thanks

No Quarter wrote:Time to add some R12, and found a guy that still has it. He told me to find where the nozzles are and remove any stuff that was in the way before I drive to his shop. But I can't find where it's done. Is there anything I have to remove and then the nozzles will be visible?

Just convert it to R134a. My 88 has had this for 10 years or more. Outlet temperatures only went up 4 degrees.
Reclaim what R12 is left, add POE oil and charge it by weight to 90% of R12. That is all I did.
If you want to change the accumulator with the different desiccant and add a high pressure cutout switch you surely can for an improved margin against failure, but I haven't seen any adverse effects over time.
The synthetic oil is better for the old seals anyhow.