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Im sure I tried many years ago and probably f'd it up cause its super hard to shift, when the car is off its easier but not great. When I pump the clutch pedal it gets a little easier but still is hard.

Not sure what kind of slave you have, but the old external style (88-89, 90-91) can be bled by manually actuating the plunger with the clutch pedal unhooked. And I believe the internal style (92+) has a bleeder valve, yes?

mine is the old style

The 88-89 has a bleeder valve as well... You can also draw a vacuum on the reservoir to bleed it, however I always had the best luck bleeding it out of the car.

Cliff8928 wrote:The 88-89 has a bleeder valve as well... You can also draw a vacuum on the reservoir to bleed it, however I always had the best luck bleeding it out of the car.

I was thinking of pulling it out of the car to do it, what is a good way to bleed it or should I say what is the proper way. As I sit right now I cant even put it in gear when its running when its off it will shift into every gear.

So I found this on the site Im going to try it

"i did it how my GM service manual said to

loosen master cylinder from firewall (but dont take off completely)
remove slave from trans (keep lower than master)
remove resevior cap
press slave cylinder in, then install cap while still depressed
then while slave is still lower than master, give it some pumps until no air bubbles in the resevior
then install slave, and finally tighten up the master"

That's about right. I unhook the pedal rather than loosening the master. And I slowly plunge the slave rod until no more bubbles show up in the reservoir.

So I tried to bleed it, Pumped it about 10 times and it don't seem any better. If I put the pedal in once its real hard to get into gear if I pumped a bunch of times it goes in not great but I can get it in. I snapped some pics of the slave at full extension it doesn't move very far at all. The clutch releases real close to the floor




I was hoping someone could snap my a pic of their slave out so I could compare

Also the plastic cap on the slave is worn threw could that effect anything

Yes, that could definitely affect how much the slave is extending, it actually reduces it. Put some other hard plastic in there to fill in the area and you should notice a difference.

From what I have read the slave should move roughly about an inch to an inch and a quater mine moves like a half of an inch so I'm ordering a new slave plus master from rock auto for 75 bucks hope it fixes this bloody problem

It will only fix it if the slave or master is leaking by the piston.... If not then you simply have a bad bleed going on and there is still air in the system.

I was never able to be satisfied with this setup, even with a complete brand new factory bled slave and master assembly.

Thanks for the help gents maybe I'll try and bench bleed it first see how that goes

Is the eyelet at the pedal deteriorated?