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I was having problems with my battery gage going up and down so I had my alternator and battery checked. I replaced the battery and also had a new exhaust pipe replaced that had a hole in it. My car is still acting up and died on me a few times plus the battery gage still drops down when I drive and it idles rough, does anyone have any ideas on what else could be causing the problems? I appreciate any help!! thanks

What type of issues are you having?  Dying on you is a rather vague example.  Battery keeps dying? or just car stops running?  Might be a bad charge wire from your alternator to your battery.

My battery gage has gone mad and the car died on me, just stopped running a couple times when I was sitting still. I started it back up and it did it again.

My gauge was jumping up and down when the alt's regulator was bad. Though, my car never died when it was doing that. Did they tell you how many volts the alt was putting out when tested?

I took my car to a mechanic I thought I could trust and he told me my intake is leaking and I need a new EGR and alternator!! :doh: I went and got my car back from him and I am having a new alternator put on somewhere else! I talked to a couple guys that know about cars and they both said my car is not known for having intake problems like he said(not that it is not possible) but I think he was trying to make extra money off me!! >:( I just hope it runs ok after I replace the alternator?! :down: My car is also running rich(code 45). HELP ???

Rich could be a stuck injector, You may need to pull them and have them cleaned somewhere.

Is there black smoke coming out of the tail pipe? Get the alternator first. Before you get the EGR be sure that the port is not pluged. That happens sometimes and will set off the EGR code. I didn't see your year or engine size on here, that would be helpful. On the intake leak, look at the head(or heads) and see if there is coolant leaking from them on the sides. Also take off the oil fill cap and look in there to see if there is something that looks like milk. I also had a shop tell me that my intake gaskets were leaking. After freaking out I checked and there is only a moist spot on one head. Mine will go out, but not any time soon. You can put the alternator on your self(it's very easy on a V6) and save some money. Hang in there and take it one problem at a time and everything will be back to normal soon.

My car is a 2.8, 6 cylinder and is still messed up after replacing the alternator?!! :doh: >:( It died on me when I got it home and had a rattling noise coming from the exhaust!! :angryfire: I am about ready to get rid of it! thanks for the help. :-[

Don't do anything rash! We need more info tham just it died. The alternator was just a fix for one problem(remember one at a time). The rattling noise could be a bad muffler or a bad converter. Get under there and bang on each with your fist. You didn't say if there was black smoke coming from the exhaust. My guess is that you have 100K on this car or more. After that many miles things will go wrong. It's going to take some work, but you can do it for less than getting another car.

My first question. Why do you think the mechanic lied to you? Because he told you something that will cost your more money than you want to spend and don't want to hear? It sounds as though he told you the truth. The EGR's are KNOWN for clogging on these cars, the alternator DOES sound bad, and your intake gaskets COULD be leaking. Now the code 45 , for an easier , more simplistic explanation , could simply be a bad O2 sensor. Let's start simple , then get complicated later when simple doesn't work. To see if your intake gaskets are leaking, one test is easy. Get a .99 cent can of Carb Cleaner, start the car and spray it around the area where your intake gaskets seal. If it starts chugging/dies , then you have bad intake gasket seals. GL.

Please update your sig with the year and engine of your car. You'll get more information that way. Judging by your 2 digit code I assume that it's a pre94 car.

SuzukiGhostRider wrote:My first question. Why do you think the mechanic lied to you? Because he told you something that will cost your more money than you want to spend and don't want to hear? It sounds as though he told you the truth. The EGR's are KNOWN for clogging on these cars, the alternator DOES sound bad, and your intake gaskets COULD be leaking. Now the code 45 , for an easier , more simplistic explanation , could simply be a bad O2 sensor. Let's start simple , then get complicated later when simple doesn't work. To see if your intake gaskets are leaking, one test is easy. Get a .99 cent can of Carb Cleaner, start the car and spray it around the area where your intake gaskets seal. If it starts chugging/dies , then you have bad intake gasket seals. GL.

First off I KNOW and you do not know the mechanic or situation so dont judge me, I have always paid for repairs and will if I think it needs it! I am just getting over cancer treatment and do not have much money so I got on here for help. I know the EGR can be cleaned and I did replace the alternator! Anyway thanks to those that replied.

Good to hear the treatment is over. If you do need a O2 sensor, it should be 20 bucks at a auto parts store. Ask a friend to put it on for you and save some money. There is no need to take it to a shop to have it done. It only needs to be unpluged and a open end wrench can be used(don't worry, it's not metric).

Money pit Beretta wrote:Good to hear the treatment is over. If you do need a O2 sensor, it should be 20 bucks at a auto parts store. Ask a friend to put it on for you and save some money. There is no need to take it to a shop to have it done. It only needs to be unpluged and a open end wrench can be used(don't worry, it's not metric).

I will get the 02 sensor changed and hope that fixes the problem. My car continues to die on me when I am sitting still. thanks!

Rattling from exhaust could be a clogged cat, it dyeing on your could be a leaky EGR. That is it's stuck open and dumping too much exhaust into the engine. Mine did that. You could cut out a plate out of some metal (aluminum or sheet metal) and block off the EGR (put it between the egr and intake) and see if the car runs better. depending on the year you might get a code for lack of EGR flow when you do that, but the car will run just fine with it blocked off. That would tell you if it's the EGR and be a temp fix for cheap until you can get a new EGR.

What are all the engien codes it's reporting? And what year is the car?