Beretta.net

Poor acceleration and throttle response. Light was on for Map sensor, and oldly, code 43, (haynes says its the electronic spark control unit, circuit). Changed out the map sensor, ignition mod, upper intake valve, knock sensor, tps, an a few other things layin around. When you hit the gas, with the light on, it literly goes no where... (speed wise)... Im totally baffeled and confused. When you go to take off while at a constat speed, or rev it in the driveway, it takes too long for it to react. Takin it back to my shop again today to dig deeper, but not sure.. any ideas? 1988 Beretta 2.8L base model. Any insight appreciated... Thanks!

Bump.

Code 43 is knock sensor or electronic spark control module.

But that said, what fuel pressure do you have? Have your "mechanic" put a gauge on it. The valve is on the end of the fuel rail. I think on a 2.8 it's near the master cylinder area.

GM also had all sorts of problems with the wires to the module getting crusty and breaking or wearing thin. Worth a check.

Also check all the wires around the coils. They are in the stupidest place on the planet on those cars and the heat can also compromise those.

Yay... it magically fixed itself temporarily... Maybe moisture in the computer? not sure.. but it runs now...

Computer is under the dash, so if you got moisture in that... well actually that's not too crazy since these cars do tend to leak water like a bastard.

Yeah, our red beretta leaks all around the windsheild dispite us even using roofing tar and my blue beretta has a mystery leak coming from behind the dash somehow.. an no its not the heater core, but I still cant find where the thing is coming from. The red beretta leaks through door seals too, so.. the floors are almost always wet, dispite how many times we attempt to seal up the car. Oh well, that car is destined for the junk yard this year as soon as we grave rob all the parts off it for mine. Lol.

Most of the time it comes in by the wiring harness(sometimes both sides). Oh and tar doesn't work. I know I tried it. I used some putty like stuff we had at work to seal windows. It worked for a year, so I'm looking for something else. It may be next year before I can clean the area all the way out and start over(too much rain). A good seam sealer might work if all the old stuff is gone and you can build it up around the harness. I found that water can get in right at the harness because it is open in the center. Windsheld sealer could also work, but that stuff is not cheap and is hard to work with(also very hard to get off your hands).

Now, where exactly is this harness going in at? because my leak in the blue beretta is on the passenger side almost center to my glovebox. Its only drips, but i'd like to attempt to fix it before it becomes BIG puddles. Red beretta, with the windshield leaking, eh. We've tried silicone for windows, the roofing tar and other random stuff thats supposed to seal. I am done adding stuff to it, plus the layer of roofing tar i cant get off now, lol. Tryin to convince the bf to let me part it out and send her away.

There is one on each side. You know where the drivers side is. The passenger side is almost a mirror image of that(just less wires). I did use seam sealer for the cowl area(under the windshield). Cleaned all the old stuff out and resealed it. I did that because I took my car to a auto glass place and they said that the windshield was fine. Start with the passenger side harness and move on from there(if it doesn't stop the leak).
The engine heat kills the roofing tar and makes it crack. I had to let that stuff get very dry before I scraped it out.
I would also like to add that I sealed up the vent box(the one that opens when the defrost or max AC is on, it's in the cowl, passenger side) and I still have the same drip you do. If it ever stops raining I'm going to seal the passenger harness.

Lets hope for no more rain for you then. What type of sealant should I be using once I locate all this wire harness? Window sealer? RTV?

For sure do not use RTV. I would go with a windshield sealer(it is made to take the heat), I say that because it is had to find a body sealer(if you can get that it would be the best). If you find a store that has body sealer be sure to ask them if what they are selling will do well in the engine compartment. Don't use calk or anything for home windows. They are not made to take the heat and hold water, that will make rust later. I still think that seam sealer could work, but I'm not sure how it would do when built up in large amounts. That stuff is kind of runny. The best thing to do is to clean all the old sealer out and start new. That would also be a good time to look for and get rid of any rust that you find there.
Just remember that the harness connecter is open in the middle, so be sure that you have sealed it to. That way water can't get in if you have too much build up of the sealer. It will be hard to do though. Water will find the smallest gap and use it(keep that in mind when working). Do you best not to make an area that will pool water. Latex gloves can help smooth the sealer. If anybody has a better way to spread this I'm open to any idea.

Oh yes and an paint or primer that is removed when cleaning must be replaced.
Also I'm not an auto body pro(they would be the best to ask). I'm just telling you what I've learned.

Well... The sealant worked for a while.. And now its pouring in my car again.. And of course, its gonna be raining all day with flash flood warnings for all of minnesota. So much for a dry car. Lol.

My family owned a Beretta car when I was still a kid. There were so much good memories with this car. Now, since the motor was totally bumped, it is just stocked in our old garage. Now I am thinking what to do with this old stuff.