Beretta.net

where exactly would these go? And are they beneficial?

http://www.jdmhub.com/index.php?route=p ... 8794_28795

Whats in the pic is NOT what your getting... You get two bolts that allow more camber adjustment with the strut, its simply a bolt with a bump on it. You only need these if you Autox the car and need aggressive camber settings... If assembled properly even with the lowest lowering springs you can get 0 camber and meet standard alignment specs.

OK thx!

my 88 has a LOT of factory camber adjustment, I could almost drive on the sidewall.. maybe the newer cars are different?

No, there is still quite a bit of adjustment... I have no idea how these got popular unless you want to run like -4* or something.

When you get an alignment, there should be more than one spec on file. The Z26's (and maybe other models) had about 1.5 degrees of negative camber. Standard models were set close to 0. The driving feel is surprisingly different... my car came back with 0, and I always thought it felt sloppy compared to the right spec.

I set mine to zero and its far from sloppy.

3X00-Modified wrote:I set mine to zero and its far from sloppy.

If you think it's good now, try adding a bit more camber. You'll be surprised.

SO you all are talking alignment???? front tire adustment. My car being a Indy, what should I tell the shop my car is for a 1990? GT, GTZ? All that crap confuses me.

I would use GTZ specs, for FE7. Hunter alignment racks just have beretta and beretta with HD suspension I think.

I think my last alignment I did -1.5 camber up front and -.5 in the rear. No toe all the way around. Caster we cant change without modding anything, even setting rear toe and camber is a PITA.

Kyle Anderson wrote:

3X00-Modified wrote:I set mine to zero and its far from sloppy.

If you think it's good now, try adding a bit more camber. You'll be surprised.

Camber is a very bad thing to have when your going in a straight line... I'll stick to 0 so I know all of my tire is touching the pavement

Also Barry, standard procedure for the rear for our cars is "non adjustable" they never touch it. Just like caster, that can be done by slotting the upper mount holes if its not much but no alignment tech will ever do it. they get it with 1* typically +/-0.5 or 1 depending on the machine and they set the toe. I had mine done by a guy I know well last and it still had -0.2* on one side and -0.7 on the other so it goes to show you they don't spend much time on it regardless.

Yeah that really jerks my ass. You pay the same price to align a car with IRS that you do for a beretta. Mechanics probably love beretta alignments. Fix camber, set toe, roll it out the door.

Maybe you do, but for me the alignment on the beretta costs less....

Alignment on mine costs nothing, I do it myself now.

If I can setup a race car right, I think I can do my beretta.