Beretta.net

just got told i have to pay 580 dollars for my a/c fix. so it looks like my paint job is going to be a RIY(ruin it yourself). i could save for a couple of years for a maaco job but i almost enjoy the challenge of tearing things up myself. any body got any DIY paints to show off?




other than styluss

Other than Styluss? No idea.

My father helped me with mine, but then he has over 40 years experience... Hence why I use him for paint work. hehe But I still do a lot of the elbow work, prep, etc.

Eric painted his Beretta himself...

yea, there are a few people, Eric (Woody) and Ryan (Styluss) at the top of my head.

Paint and materials for mine I think was around 500.... If I can remember correctly. Maybe a bit more. I did more of the prep, some sanding, etc, just not the actual painting. Eric did his himself, but he did the same type of paint work. Styluss did the poor man's paint job, which uses different paint and different methods. Basically you paint using some base color, like white or black... Also involves some thorough prep, good masking and lots of patience. In his case he did a lot of extra sanding to make it turn out pretty nice. His color of choice was Rustoleum White I believe.

Eric had used a nice metal/gray color and did the more correct way, using air driven paint sprayer, etc... Guessing he spent around 300 -600 for paint and materials, but could be mistaken. He at least painted his himself.



If I would have had it done by a body shop it would have cost between 2-3k, as it was a mostly full body paint job. The only things I didn't do, was pull the window/window trims.

I sprayed mine and it came out ok for a first-time job. I did the whole engine bay, door jams, trunk, etc too since I was changing color from the factory teal to gray.

I used the Summit urethane system. Easy mixing and pretty good quality...better than an enamel or lacquer.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-UP308/?rtype=10

With the primer, paint, clear, abrasives & filler it came out to about $400. Then I had a local body guy cut & buff it.

That reminds me, I found a set of those rims today Woody... lol One is horribly bent though.

If I was gonna paint my car, what would be the best paint and clear to get on a budget and not on a budget? Also anyone ever use a electric paint gun? My dads got one he said I could have.

I would recommend the Summit stuff as a good-quality low-cost option. If I were to spray metallic again though I would go with their true base/clear rather than the single stage w/ "optional" clear. When I painted mine in '09 the base/clear wasn't available yet.

PPG and Dupont are great if money doesn't matter. And Mipa is a good high-build primer. (This is what I've been told by body guys, I haven't used them.)

I was looking on summit and found this.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/i ... %20job.pdf

Its a how-to kinda.

can the premix and acrylic enamels be buffed to a shine?

If you want a good quality low-ish cost paint line, ppg omni is good. Plus, purchasing the paint local you can get questions answered and advice from the people who are selling it. Dont cheap on the paint to much, you may save money but think of the sweat youre wasting on prep when your paint job fails after a year. Its all about prep, and prep takes time.

Dont use an electric paint gun to paint a car.

Those are for fences.

Chad91GTZ wrote: Dont use an electric paint gun to paint a car.

Those are for fences.

not that i'm going to paint my car with one but i always wondered what kind of results you would get on a super smooth surface like a car body panel vs a rough surface like a piece of wood.

It will look like a fence. Youd be better off with a roller. At least it wouldnt be lumpy and have gobs of crap in it.

yeah then you get the orange peel effect from the roller. i tried it for the hell of it before i got rid of the Z26.

already got the compressor just need a decent gun so i can get my paint on.