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I have swapped the three relays on the firewall, replaced a new ETC with another new one, replaced the ECT connector, replaced the CTS, tested the fan and checked the wiring for any fraying or loose connections.

The fan will not turn on when the AC is turned on or the ETC connector is unplugged either. Funny thing is that the temperature gauge rises much faster than normal and reaches the redline in under two minutes - I know this can't be an accurate reading.

What gives here? Is there another relay for the AC somewhere?



Thanks

Is the ac engaging at all? If the AC itself does not turn on then the fan will not come on either. As far as your other temp issue goes, I don't know what to say about that other than you have a coolant flow issue or something is wrong with the temp sensor.

As far as the fan coming on with the temp sensor unplugged... I've never heard of that one so I wouldn't use that as a way to test the fan.

If the AC isn't coming on and the fan is not engaging with the AC turned on, it would seem to me that your refrigerant level is too low to activate the system.

Have you checked the thermostat?

I have a thermostat that I am going to install next - It sat for about three months so maybe it could have froze up.

The AC does engage but it isn't charged, as getting it running is priority over staying cool while driving.......... Would lack of refrigerant (I replaced the entire system) cause this?

uncle wrote:I have a thermostat that I am going to install next - It sat for about three months so maybe it could have froze up.

The AC does engage but it isn't charged, as getting it running is priority over staying cool while driving.......... Would lack of refrigerant (I replaced the entire system) cause this?

Yes.

Sounds to me like a T stat being stuck. Temp on the back sensor spikes, yet the one up near the T stat doesn't get hot enough to trigger the fan.

Much Thanks

DTMAce wrote:

uncle wrote:I have a thermostat that I am going to install next - It sat for about three months so maybe it could have froze up.

The AC does engage but it isn't charged, as getting it running is priority over staying cool while driving.......... Would lack of refrigerant (I replaced the entire system) cause this?

Yes.

Sounds to me like a T stat being stuck. Temp on the back sensor spikes, yet the one up near the T stat doesn't get hot enough to trigger the fan.

Being a quad I wasn't sure how the sensors were located so I did not know if that was possible or not.

For the AC if the compressor clicks on then the refrigerant level is "acceptable" to a point are you positive the compressor is turning on? Also if it clicks on and off very frequent I do not think it will be on long enough to trigger the fan turn on for it either.

When I turn the AC on I hear a click towards the front of the engine compartment but I do not know if it is running or not. I think I will go ahead and charge the AC while swapping the T-stat out.

lol

I never noticed it was a quad, but it still should have a similar setup, no?

My car had this exact situation after the motor swap last year. Turned out to be the coolant lines were backwards going to the heater core

I would check the temp sender. I went through all the steps on mine and was about to just wire the fan with a switch when I swapped out the temp sender and that fixed it.


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SummitBalt08 wrote:My car had this exact situation after the motor swap last year. Turned out to be the coolant lines were backwards going to the heater core

I don't understand how this could affect anything seeing as how the heater core doesn't do anything but flow coolant through it; I can't imagine it requiring a directional flow.

heavywoody wrote:

SummitBalt08 wrote:My car had this exact situation after the motor swap last year. Turned out to be the coolant lines were backwards going to the heater core

I don't understand how this could affect anything seeing as how the heater core doesn't do anything but flow coolant through it; I can't imagine it requiring a directional flow.

Let's say this.. I had the same problems as the OP pretty much, to the point that me and the guy that swapped the motor was stumped.. so I took it to the shop and they told me it was because the heater core hoses were backwards.. it could have been an air bubble that worked itself out at the same time who knows. I'm just going by what they told me...

have you checked the plug that plugs into the fan for proper voltage and ground? Does your engine have one or two temp sensors? Your AC system won't do anything to make your car overheat, same with the heatercore flow. Might be something in the wiring harness. Did you check and see if the radiator fins arent full of dirt or something?

Summit sells a thermostatic switch for about $26. I used that to switch the ground side on a relay that controls the fan on my S10. So if you can't figure out what the problem is you could remedy it that way. I wired a toggle switch in with my s10 as a fail safe but I don't have to use it, ever. You might be able to find a plug in a coolant passage that it would thread right into also.

I looked on their site but couldnt find the part number. I have it tho if you really cant find it. I just called them and the guy looked it up for me when I ordered. They also sell relay kits if you dont want to make your own I guess. I used a relay from a cheapo keyless entry box and made my own harness. So I gave my S10 a electric fan that I dont even have to toggle on and off, for about $60.

Temp sender and radiator are brand new.

I am going to change the thermostat today and make sure that there aren't any air pockets in the system before I try anything radical like wiring up a new switch.


thanks guys