Beretta.net

i was thinking a list of the least expensive and most noticeable mods or upgrade list. it might be cool/beneficial fro us TOTAL NOOBS working on the car that dont know where to start. i have always been kind of red faced when i have no clue what some of you are talking about. no matter how obvious, rare, detailed, difficult, or down right foolish to even try...
by category:

exterior/body
-paint
-spoiler
-body kit
-wheels
-tint

suspension
-lowering springs
-shocks struts
-sway bar

performance
-cold air intake


interior
-re upholstery
-LED lighting
-steering wheel
-dash swap/repair
-painted trim pieces
-stereo replacement
-speaker changes

lighting
-euro headlight
-LED headlights/signals
-clear markers
-clear tail lights
-black outs

there is lots of stuff you have done and the performance list will be a lot longer eventually. if you have something to add throw it in. i'm sure you seasoned guys and mechanics have lots to share........

(no bashing for what someone may have done or tried)

And a more noticeable search button for noobs...

You should add the 92-94 Cavalier upper strut bar and lower frame brace (won't fit the 4spd auto though). There is also MRZ's rear upper strut bar, which is also a great upgrade, I hear.

The only other thing I can mention is custom fitting BMW E36 headlights, which only involves modifications to how it mounts. The OEM projector headlights can cost quite a bit, even used sets can go for the same price as a new set of aftermarket headlights. I will say that most aftermarket headlights are not the best quality, but make great shells for a set of retro-fitted projector lenses for HID's. This would give you the best light pattern, cut off point and most of all...keep the heat off of your ride.

LOL

gotta love google image search......

on a second note....i was thinking this could be for beginners that dont even know where to start or just want some ideas for working on their car

My first-to-do list for past 3 Berettas has been:

0) Change all fluids and filters, give it a good wax
1) Chime delete (yank it out, free)
2) Dual headlight relay ($5?)
3) If it's a base model, swap in full cluster and adjustable windshield wiper thing (?)
4) Addco rear swaybar ($140?)
5) Tires?

I have a HUGE project surrounding just this exact thing that I have been sitting on for years now. One of these days, sooner than later I hope, I will finish it. You have merely scratched the surface of what is out there to do to your car my friend.

For your car only?
Adjustable vacuum modulator for the trans. Every stock 4T60 should have one.
Anything that Wicked makes.
A Styluss intake: WAI or CAI
Big port intakes
STB front and rear
With just that small list you will like your car better.
Big ticket items are headers, ported heads and intakes. All of those I think are more than you want to spend.

Koots wrote:You should add the 92-94 Cavalier upper strut bar and lower frame brace (won't fit the 4spd auto though).

the upper works perfectly fine on all beretta's, you are likely talking about the lower that wont fit... which i haven't ever seen... but would like to! (i'll use the search function!)

i'm curious about this adjustable vacuum modulator for the 4 spd... what differences do you notice? more pressure = quicker shifting?

7/10. List isn't bad but it's better now:

Brotips
-start with suspension. Slow car that can turn > slow car that can't
-if you want faster progress focus on big ticket items first. Piddly cheap crap = budget black hole
-there is no shame in rocking 15" steelies (if you believe Honda owners...)

exterior/body
-paint
-spoiler ............GTZ, GTU, or GTFO
-body kit ..........GTZ, GTU... you see where this is going
-wheels
-tint

suspension
-Cavi strut bar
-Poly errrrrythang
-lowering springs ...Yes
-shocks struts ........^At the same time as
-sway bar ...............z51 or Addco rear, just poly the front
-MRZ shock bar

performance
-cold air intake ......Not so much as...
-Ported (3.1) or big port (3100) mani
-Downpipe-back exhaust (downpipe is my-brain-is-full-of-gently caress small)
-3400 exhaust manifolds (3100) or WOT-TECH headers (baller), whichever
-poly Cavi motor mount insert, MRZ billet/poly torque strut

interior
-full cluster swap
-Malibu lit trunk pop button
-re upholstery ............just Z interior swap
-LED lighting ..............k
-steering wheel ..........Lumina z34 wheel = secks
-dash swap/repair ......cracked dash because racecar
-painted trim pieces ....no
-stereo replacement ....MRZ single-din herrafrush mount
-speaker changes .......k

lighting
-dual hi/low mod ..............it's 1 relay, 1 fuse, some wire. DANGEROUSLY EASY
-Z fogs/turns
-euro headlight .................aww how cute it wants to be a Camaro
-LED headlights/signals ....55w HID in stock housings. do it. DEATH GLARE
-clear markers ..................side markers for Malibus work
-clear tail lights ................Euros pls
-black outs .......................no thanks, i like remembering last night


And the best upgrade:




Regular maintenance

I think every beretta should have a 3500 preferably, 3400 at a minimum. Unless its already a quad

berettaboi wrote:

Koots wrote:You should add the 92-94 Cavalier upper strut bar and lower frame brace (won't fit the 4spd auto though).

the upper works perfectly fine on all beretta's, you are likely talking about the lower that wont fit... which i haven't ever seen... but would like to! (i'll use the search function!)

i'm curious about this adjustable vacuum modulator for the 4 spd... what differences do you notice? more pressure = quicker shifting?

Yes he stated the Lower Frame Brace is the one that wont fit... read what you quoted.

The adjustable modulator yes can raise line pressure and make shifting a bit better but on an old high mile trans it will only shorten its life after installed... High mileage 4t60e's don't like the abuse.

See, you guys are providing specific examples for HIS car. My list has a comprehensive layout of options that will fit ANY Beretta. Basically it is an all encompassing list of ideas for modding a Beretta. I will have to get it finished up soon!

aaahh! yes exactly what i meant. "the idiots guide to hooking up your beretta" if you will.

Well all I know is that my old 4L60 needed the adjustable vac mod. When I put the gas down enough to get the light passing gear the trans would take 4 seconds to finish the up shift( like it was almost slipping). I'm not just saying that, it really did take that long. After the vac mod was put on that stopped. I'm sure that helped the trans live longer.
My new trans came with one. If I need to I will turn it down to nothing. It sure would be nice to get more info on how they kill a trans.