Beretta.net

Guys please help here....I really want to keep the GTZ but dam there is ALWAYS something wrong with this car!

I think I finally figured out the shifter cable issues. I taped down the ends of the cable where the metal presses on the black plastic piece. I used the stretchy electrical tape that molds in and becomes like rubber.

Dam shifter cable goes out on me every 2 or 3 months. I hope that fixed it.

Well this time as side from other issues is the car did not want to start this morning.

Everytime it rains I have issues with this car. I tried to fix the firewall water leak but I managed to only fix the pass side. Driver side still fills up with wate

I jumped started it after work and it started right up....then I watched the battery gauge slowly go down. It then began to spudder and want to turn off.

Could it just be the battery? I mean I could easily fix that but what caused it? I double checked and I did not leave any lights on.

Where on the shifter cables are you talking about?
I have a water leak too, they are hard to get rid of.
Have the battery tested and the alt too.
Most Beretta's have some sort of problem, that is what it's like to own one.
I have a few problems, but have alot that needs to be done.

if you watched the battery gauge wander down while it was running, likely the alternator doesnt feel like charging your battery anymore... one usually drags the other down with it, you very likely need both batt and alt. start with checking over the cables real good, and also charging the battery full. try it once more with a volt meter on the battery terminals. if it's not sticking above 14 volts running, your alternator is due for a rebuild/replace.

Yea I have a,feeling its the alternator but what caused it all of,a,sudden? Car was,running perfect before we got some rain.

I wonder,if the exposed fuse,box near the door might have gotten wet. I pulled the #4 fuse and it was fine.

See I want to fix thr issue and wat,ever caused it too. Im gonna get the batt checked today.

As for the shifter cable im talking about the ends where the wires begin to get exposed. The metal piece isnt crimped on there very good when they are made.

If your alternator is the CS130 (most commonly the 105a version found in most 80-90's GM's), it requires either an idiot light or a resistor in the L-Circuit to mimic bulb resistance.

If you have an idiot light, make sure the bulb isn't blown. If it is, replace it and it might fix your problem.

Where is the resistor

how old is the alternator? they are a wear part...

I havent switched out the alternator since I bought it

Batt tested good. Autozone blonde chick tested my alternator and it was reading 12 instead of 14.

When I flip the blinkers the rpm needle flips with it. I can feel a load when I flip the blinkers...wtf

To me it sounds like a bad regulator.

Sounds like the Alt to me. Probably the rectifier/regulator in the alt is toast.

Im going to take the alternator out tommorrow. What regulator?

It's in the back of the alternator, it can be replaced. Mine went bad and I was going to rebuild the whole thing, but found a nice price on a reman of good quality.

If you look at the backside of the alternator, you will see a section that is a different color than the rest of it, along the outer rim. That area contains the rectifier bridge and voltage regulator for the alternator.

Basically, alternators produce alternating current, and that changes drastically with the speed of the engine. The rectifier converts the A/C to D/C, then the regulator governs the voltage to not go over set limits, such as 14-15v. If ANY of you ever notice, these always seem to do better when cold, or even in cold weather, cause heat breaks down the workability of these components, causing them to be less efficient. Prolonged heat exposure eventually burns out the components completely. I can more than likely guarantee that colder weather owned alternators fail more often to bearings going bad, and warmer weather ones fail more often due to the electronics in the alternator burning out. lol

I am on my 4th (3rd replacement) since I first bought my Z. I have changed them all myself. They have all failed due to the electric components burning out. I have never had a bearing failure on the alts in the Z. And only the last alternator happened while I was up here, the others all died in Ohio, maybe one in Illinois. The one in my cavy on the other hand died from a bearing failure. LOL

So I can simply replace that piece off the alternator as a cost effictive option? Or is that not a option and I must replace the whole alternator