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Second doesnt shift with the pedal all the way down.

My guess is that your TV cable is out of adjustment. It's a simple adjustment, but I'm on my iPad and don't like to type too much, someone else can helP

Not normal, maybe 3rd is going out? Mine did that when 2nd went out. It would rev really high in first then go to third.

6800 is really high for these motors.

The power falls off at 4,700rpm. The stock shift point is way too high at 5,200rpm.
I see no point in going higher ever. 6,800 is just not a good thing and is foolish. I was really thinking about ripping your butt on this one, but I'm going to let it go.
You have electrical shift solenoids on the valve body that control up and down shifts. Replace them!
My 90GT had 213k on it and it never did that kind of thing. I drove it for 100k and that was almost ten years of ownership.

GHOSTOWLGRID wrote:

It pulls strong all the way up to 6,800 RPM.

LOL, ok... For some reason, all I can think of is when I see an ad for a car on craigslist that has a blown engine and blown transmission! I always wonder, How is this possible? Now I know!

Koots wrote:My guess is that your TV cable is out of adjustment. It's a simple adjustment, but I'm on my iPad and don't like to type too much, someone else can helP

That is good to hear its a simple adjustment. I have had all that apart before on a different Beretta and I have never seen any way to adjust it.
If it is a screw and all I have to do is pop it apart and turn it, I might just turn it 1 time 360 degrees to extend it just a bit.

GTU89 wrote:Not normal, maybe 3rd is going out? Mine did that when 2nd went out. It would rev really high in first then go to third.

6800 is really high for these motors.

I know that is high, that's how high it went the first time before I realized what happened, the second time I didn't let it go as high, maybe 6200 or 6300 but its still pushing it... :/

Money pit Beretta wrote:The power falls off at 4,700rpm. The stock shift point is way too high at 5,200rpm.
I see no point in going higher ever. 6,800 is just not a good thing and is foolish. I was really thinking about ripping your butt on this one, but I'm going to let it go.
You have electrical shift solenoids on the valve body that control up and down shifts. Replace them!
My 90GT had 213k on it and it never did that kind of thing. I drove it for 100k and that was almost ten years of ownership.

I did not know that about the power fall off. It always seemed to pull strong even at higher RPM...
I do know that it lacked better air flow for higher RPM, but that just seems low to me...
I have driven it before and had made it shift sooner and it seems to take longer on a drag acceleration than from idle to redline, in my opinion.

I have the older 3 SPD AUTO, I thought the only solenoid is the TCC solenoid in this transmission? The other wires are just gear selection sensors to the ECM and the other wire plug is the shift selection?

Yes I know it was foolish to try it again, but I had to debunk what was going on, unfortunately I tested it like that. But the engine is okay, it runs insanely smooth too.
I plan on keeping this car for the next 30 some years so I plan on taking care of it!

scd88ga wrote:

GHOSTOWLGRID wrote:

It pulls strong all the way up to 6,800 RPM.

LOL, ok... For some reason, all I can think of is when I see an ad for a car on craigslist that has a blown engine and blown transmission! I always wonder, How is this possible? Now I know!

lol, ok. I would never sell a vehicle where something mechanically is broken, maybe dull paint because I do not know how to paint.
But, I would at least make sure its mechanically sound.
I'd never want to or knowingly sell something that is broken or falling apart from me using it...

do you have a digital dash on your car? because I had an cavalier do the same thing to me and some others members who had digi-dash. they said they would become imprecise over time.

no I have the analog gauges.
They are the gauge cluster from a 1987 Beretta.
The milage was the Sam except for 2,000 miles extra so I used it.
The old cluster was half busted, only its odometer and speedometer worked...

All you have to do is drop the trans pan. The solenoids are right there on the valve body. I know that it's not the same as yours but I had two of them go out and was stuck in 3rd grear. That is the only problem that I had with my 3T40.
My 3.1 would rev higher than 5,200rpm, but there was no power and the drop off before that could be felt. Did you some how buy a car from someone that put another cam in?
Your right the stock intake does very little for the top end power.
I understand testing something, but be careful. The 3.1 really was not made to go over 6,000rpm. I will say that they are built better than 3100's. Which would be why I still have so much respect for them.

I know what you mean, I really like the old 3.1, It's boss when it comes to being bullet proof in my opinion.

I am not sure exactly what the story is with this Beretta, all I know is some kid had owned it and had trunk lined with speakers, and all kind of other things supposedly done that his father did not know about. (That's what the guy said).
The car was taken away and sold because the kid was abusing it, etc. Then I bought it for cheap as a parts car but ended up rebuilding it because the INDY I was restoring was totaled by a semi truck. (They swapped roles unfortunatly).

I would not be surprised if they might have modded something on this engine, I am still finding surprises when I fix things, I'm thinking "what nut case did this." But, it defiantly pulls harder than my first 90 INDY when it still worked. But that one had a 3.1L v6 MPFI from a 92 Buick Buick Regal that I got and put in it to replace the busted engine that it had. (I was looking for and hoping to find the old style 3.4 or 3.8 to drop in, but never did).

Cool, thanks for the back story. Sorry to hear about your first Indy. That 92 should be the same as the 90. With that said there must be something up with this car. All that I know is that there was a few Comp Cams grinds. Having a hard time looking them up. There was a stock and mid, also a somewhat large cam. Though I don't remember the operation range was. I'm sure it wasn't 7k though.
Anyway to talk to that guys dad?

Money pit Beretta wrote:Cool, thanks for the back story. Sorry to hear about your first Indy. That 92 should be the same as the 90. With that said there must be something up with this car. All that I know is that there was a few Comp Cams grinds. Having a hard time looking them up. There was a stock and mid, also a somewhat large cam. Though I don't remember the operation range was. I'm sure it wasn't 7k though.
Anyway to talk to that guys dad?

no problemo, I have been rounding up photos and planning a thread to post about my cars that I had and have. I want to post my cars stories.

Not to be different, but What does "Comp Cam Grindes" mean? I'm not seeing it.
I have been all over the exhaust on this car and it is louder than the other 3.1L and it has the same parts and no holes anywhere.
I'm starting to think your right about it probably having a cam; because I just took it on the freeway 25 miles round trip (errands) and I tested it through the gears. I did not let it go over about 5,300 RPM and its defiantly consistent, it does not seem to have any loss of power or strength on the top end of the scale.

Since Exploring this, I want to rebuild my 92 Buick Engine now, I want to stick the most radical cam I can find and get some good bottom end parts from Summit or some place so I can ensure I can rev up higher safely. Maybe turbo it, maybe something else. I might look into the 3400 heads & intake swap I read about. But that's another story for another time.
What I really wanted when I bought my 92 engine was the older style 3.8L Supposedly it was close to a drop-in.
But they were nowhere to be found.

If someone did it right and built the engine to support a good size cam then the compression is higher than stock. That would change how it sounds. But I'm sure it's not the stock muffler though.
Really you should look up camshaft basics. It would take too long to post up all the info. Grinds is kind of a slang term for different "sizes" if you will of cams. It's more of a milling than a grind. They mill down a cam blank to whatever "size" they want. There is alot more that goes into making a cam act the way it does.
Sorry the 3.8 is nowhere near a drop in and for older cars the 3400 is close, but still not a drop in.
I'd like to take a ride in this car.
Anyway have you done anything to the trans yet?

Its got the stock converter, and I replaced the muffler and pipe like I did with my other 90 Beretta. Old muffler was a pile of rust.
That is fine, I am not expecting you or anyone to post camshaft info, I've been looking into it. Takes a while to sort through the info out there, but I'm slowly getting through things.
It has been a few years since I looked into the older 3.4 & 3.8 v6's. All I remembered was that one was close to a drop-in with little changes and I took a stab at mentioning I was after them, but never found any unfortunately.

The car is always in use, this car easily gets over 500 miles a week on it. Next time I have to change the oil on it I will check out the kickback cable. I was just trying to figure out if it was normal and if I can leave it till I can get to it.

There won't be a TV cable on that 3t40. The shifts are controled by the computer.
You will be fine if you drive normal. But it's only going to get worse as time goes by.
The 3400 just needs a fabed mount. Sensors are another thing.