Beretta.net

3X00-Modified wrote:That's because they don't exist on the 3.4's... this is a part that you would tap the lower intake to accept the style that the beretta used so you can re-use the same pipe that was there and not have to modify one to fit like I did.

The 3.4L engines had a pipe that was just slipped in there with an o-ring on it.

3400 Swap guide!!

1995_Pontiac_Grand_Am_GT_Swap_Version_2.0.pdf

Press fit style I adapted to fit Robert's engine when I did his

Got it! Lol trying to describe the part to the guy at the dealership sucks!

Lol its not that i didn't read it, the parts department employee couldn't find it.. I was hoping you had at least a pic

You just need to tap the 3400 lower intake for your 3100 coolant by-pass tube's threaded end. You have all the parts right now. Trying to put a 3400 by-pass tube on your car is not going to work. 3X00 welded that(the 3400 end) on the 3100's tube.

So you're saying i didn't need the part above? I have a 3400 blocm as well if it makes any difference?

There are different ways to get it done, but the easiest and most plug-n-play option I've found is as I've stated. Get a 3100 quick-disconnect, the silver part as shown in my second pics, and buy a thread-tap for the correct size NPT (National Pipe Thread) for it. Then you can re-use the 3100 heater-core line from your car, and any standard parts or wear-items will be off-the-shelf for the Beretta, which means nothing else needs to be fabricated for it if something breaks in the future, and there are no special part numbers to memorize and hunt down later... Any other way just isn't worth it IMO...

Rettax3 wrote:Any other way just isn't worth it IMO...

Yes and no; if you can't fabricate stuff I agree... but the pipe I made for both Roberts and my engine have one wear item... a simple O-ring... Other than that the rest is the same as a 94-96 Beretta, and honestly one o-ring pressed in usually lasts much longer than that quick disconnect fitting. Every one I've ever worked on the plastic clips would break if you just look at it and it always leaked. I did however go this route the first 3400 swap I did on my red car... I tapped the lower intake and put a new quick disconnect fitting in there, It worked but every time the engine was touched I had to replace that fitting because it would never seal again.

I'm rather surprised by your reply as well since you have stated before that a 3800 and V8 and 6speed swap in a beretta is simple, but this one fabrication item you state is not worth it.

3X00-Modified wrote:

Rettax3 wrote:Any other way just isn't worth it IMO...

Yes and no; if you can't fabricate stuff I agree... but the pipe I made for both Roberts and my engine have one wear item... a simple O-ring... Other than that the rest is the same as a 94-96 Beretta, and honestly one o-ring pressed in usually lasts much longer than that quick disconnect fitting. Every one I've ever worked on the plastic clips would break if you just look at it and it always leaked. I did however go this route the first 3400 swap I did on my red car... I tapped the lower intake and put a new quick disconnect fitting in there, It worked but every time the engine was touched I had to replace that fitting because it would never seal again.

I'm rather surprised by your reply as well since you have stated before that a 3800 and V8 and 6speed swap in a beretta is simple, but this one fabrication item you state is not worth it.

Whoah. I never said a V-8 swap was easy, in fact I've said it is a complete PITA. Yes, in comparison to a complete non-direct engine swap, such as a 3X00 into an older-style Beretta, I've found the 3800 was easier for me to put in, and the interfaces to the car (heater-core, etc) actually fit the Berettas better than the 60-degree engines do . I also said that the 6-speed swap was alot harder than the 3800 swap was, in fact also a PITA.

That clarified, most of us do not have a TIG welder like you do, and MIG or wire-feed welders are a bit tricky to get a strong, leak-proof, pressure-proof seal on a pipe that thin -doable to be sure, but tricky. It has become very uncommon for people to use gas welding on parts like this, and that is a whole different skill altogether. For the time involved, tapping the LIM is a lot faster, simpler, easier, and more fool-proof. If the pipe ever rusts out or gets kinked or bent, you don't need to fabricate another one. Obviously, if you are a professional welder, the game changes, but all else being equal, I stand by my statement. That in no way detracts from the method you used, so don't misunderstand me as criticizing you or your build, I didn't mean it that way at all. But I prefer off-the-shelf parts whenever possible, and that stupid quick-disconnect (yeah, right ) fitting, like I used, is cheap and easy to find. I think that you and I both tend to put enough time and attention into our cars that we could make a career out of it, if someone would pay us to do it, so for you to fab a small piece like that is nothing. Most people aren't like that, so a quick, easy plug in and go answer is the best. It only takes a little while to tap the LIM, and it doesn't take anything like the kind of skill or equipment necessary to weld a pipe like that reliably. So far as the old-style's reliability, I've hardly ever had one leak unless it was first taken apart and not cleaned-up right, and the fitting usually only breaks if you try to remove it (which removing it usually does break that little POS -although Teflon tape as I've suggested might help). But again, that is just MO...

While I'm doing this..... how about a new thermostat just in case? They are not hard to change on the car. Working around the TB and exhaust cross over can be a pain though. You can save yourself some time a worry by doing it now.

Oh it needed one anyways lol. But a concern here. I brought a egr adapter from British Car Conversion? N my mechanic is having trouble getting it to work? Is there any modification needed? Or could it be a bad machine work?

Post pics?

1988GTU wrote:Post pics?

wont be able to, no ride atm...he is saying something about how with the adapter the egr pipe wont fit??(if i remember hearing him correctly) he is saying that i would need a 3400 egr pipe and 3400 egr valve??

Link to the one you bought?

That is the one I have and it works just fine(no changes needed). The EGR tube is a flex tube and I may have bent/adjusted(without kinking) it some to make it work. Hell I don't remember. I would say it was off by just a small amount.
I'm running a 2000 intake, is that what you have?

Wow... waste of money... You HAVE a 96... you can use ANY egr and pipe up to 2005 engines plug is exactly the same... That adapter is for a 94-95 OBDI.5 computer that has to use the 3 solenoid egr so it will NOT work in your application... You don't have that EGR...

Just get a 2000+ Grand Am egr pipe and use a 2000+ egr... done.

2000+ setup


Your Old 1996-99 setup